Need advice

Discussion in 'Platform1' started by oldknotty, Jun 30, 2019.

  1. oldknotty

    oldknotty Full Member

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    I have just bought a new Hornby Coronation loco and i need to change the cab side numbers . How do i remove the old numbers without damaging the paint and add the new ones ?????
     
  2. oldknotty

    oldknotty Full Member

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    BTW i inter to build the City of Stoke on Trent and make a train out of it and some wagons etc . Does anyone happen to know what locos they used to haul mineral trains on the Knotty ??
     
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  3. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi there Old Knotty now 46254 City of Stoke on Trent sounds interesting but as a top link Camden engine I doubt it ever did local freight trips on Stoke diagrams. However here is what I do know, in Knotty days freight was mainly handled by the Class C, D, Longbotton DX rebuilds, F, L and M tanks, I've seen pictures of other classes too for example, a 159 Class 0-6-0 tender loco number 163 hauling a Bamfords equipment train out of Pinfold Yard circa 1920's. Then there's a picture of NSR 0-6-0 tender loco Class E number 122 on a works engineers train a Ashbourne in 1929, however as models these loco's would generally have to be built from scratch currently... I'm sure many other types were used on goods workings. Now in LMS days all the Knotty stock was replaced with either LNWR Cauliflower locos along with LMS Standard 4F, Black 5, 8F's as mainstay freight working and a range of Fowler, Stanier and Fairburn 2-6-4 tanks used on local passenger workings. In later BR days particularly with the closure of Uttoxeter and Alsager sheds many BR Standard 4-6-0 Class 4 locos and Riddles Class 2 along with Ivatt 2-6-0 tender types were deployed to 5D Stoke. There is even a picture of a 9F (I think 92060 ... difficult to tell) on a tanker train at Hassell Green on the Wheelock branch, certainly 8F's were used on stone trains up the Cauldon and Black 5's on coal trips up the Biddulph Valley line, I personally remember seeing Black 5's shunting the oil tanks at Waterloo Road sidings which became the trunkated section of Loop Line serving Walker's Century Oils.
     
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  4. oldknotty

    oldknotty Full Member

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    Thanks for all that info York Paul it is very interesting and i do have some of those locos in my shed . But as is often said in the model railway world , " it's my layout and Ill run what i like " :) :) LOL, anyway i will take your advice to heart and try to maintain some semblance of reality ok mate ;-)
     
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  5. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Sounds like a plan to me :thumbs: I can give you a list of what locos were allocated to Stoke shed from about 1948 until closure in 1967 if its of use to you. Just as a add on I recently saw a photo of 71000 Duke of Gloucester heading south through Stoke station before taking the Derby line at Stoke Junction sometime in the early 1960's... who would have thought.
     
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  6. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    I use a cotton bud and a small amount of T-Cut car polish, take your time and don’t press to hard and it should slowly remove the number.
    Kim
     
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  7. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    A glass fibre pen will also remove the numbers, but approach it slowly and smoothly as it can also remove paint !

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  8. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    I haven't removed cab side numbers on a Hornby loco so I can't suggest a definitive method. However, I have read on different websites and in magazines that meths, isopranol alcohol, Tcut etc could work. I would start with the meths and if that doesn't work try the other methods. Personally I wouldnt use a fibreglass pen as it might remove as much paint around the numbers as the numbers themselves.
    The only time I have removed cab numbers was on my Dapol 08 and they were a nightmare, I finished up using the tip of a scalpel then polishing the paint with Tcut to get rid of the scratches.

    Pete.
     
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  9. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I've done a few renumberings and I usually use a blunted wooden cocktail stick and either a metal polish like "Brasso" or auto paint "T Cut", whatever the equivalent is in the States. I guess you could also use fine grade engine valve grinding paste but I've not tried that. Basically it's just a case of dip the stick into whatever solution you have, then gently rub the printed number, reapplying the solution until it begins to fade, cleaning off at intervals so you don't go into the base paint underneath. Once fully cleaned off, you can then apply whatever decals you have, wether water type or Methfix, once dry/set, a coat of clear varnish/lacquer to seal it all, and job done!
    Keith.
     
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  10. oldknotty

    oldknotty Full Member

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    Thank you for the input guys it's all much appreciated i will look into all of them before i make my move and let you know how i go on :)
     
  11. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    I agree with several of the methods suggested. In the past, I have used a fibreglass pen, a wooden lolly stick and cotton bud/T-cut to remove numbers and markings from Hornby, Bachmann and Heljan locos.

    My most recent one was a Hornby BR(S) S15, which had the numbers on one cabside sloping downwards (which applied to the whole production batch of this particular model from Hornby). I used the T-cut on cotton bud method to remove the old numbers, then applied replacements using HMRS pressfix transfers, making sure they were level by using a strip of Tamiya masking tape below the number line.

    The photo shows the model before I fixed the numbering (I had previously weathered it), then after removal of the old, and application of the new numbers but before I repaired the weathering (a process I am still doing).

    [​IMG]
    S15 edited by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

    [​IMG]
    P_20190628_210003_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr


    Mine was complicated by the weathering, but with a pristine Duchess you shouldn't have any problems. The T-cut will leave a slightly shiny patch, but that can be fixed afterwards with some varnish on the whole cabside to give an even finish ... or it could be where the proud driver has polished the cabside numbers up!
     
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  12. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Looks great SRman. Quite prototypical as well as often the crew would wipe the cab number with an oily rag to clean it up. :thumbup:
     
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  13. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Although no use on a plastic body, if it comes to removing tampo printing on a diecast body of say a bus or lorry, get a cotton bud and nail varnish remover. It will wipe the text off and leave the nice shiny paint ok underneath. Did this on many EFE buses to change fleet names and destinations.

    At least, I’ve never tried the nail varnish remover on a plastic loco,.... I always suspected it would remove the less glossy paint.
     
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  14. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    I have used this method also, on quite a few EFE and OOC buses where the livery was correct for what I wanted, but the fleetnames needed changing. However, be careful where other colours have been pained over the top of the base colour, as those 'top' colours will also come off easily with nail varnish remover/acetone. This was useful when I wanted to change a Bristol FLF Lodekka in Bristol Omnibus livery to Hants & Dorset livery. Both iveries were in Tilling green with cream relief, but the H&D version didn't have a stripe below the upper deck windows which the Bristol livery had. The nail varnish remover easily took off the fleetnames and the superfluous stripe for me.

    As Andy said, don't try this on plastic items. With more use of metal coming in on models from Hornby and Bachmann, this may be a useful tip, though.
     
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  15. oldknotty

    oldknotty Full Member

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    SR Man Do you have any idea as to what they equivalent to T-Cut would be here in the states ?? maybe auto rubbing compound ??
     
  16. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes, Auto rubbing compound will be the US equivalent of "T Cut". It's what they use to blend in old and new paint on a car body repair, 'feathering' the old paint in to match the new.
    Keith.
     
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  17. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    I'm glad Keith answered that, as I didn't know, myself. I have bought T-cut here in Australia.
     
  18. oldknotty

    oldknotty Full Member

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    Thanks Keith :)
    Martin
     

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