M & M Models BR 12ton pipe wagon

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Toto, Nov 24, 2018.

  1. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    :avatar:

    No worries , I'll give you a shout.

    Cheers

    Toto:thumbs:
     
  2. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    playing catch up - got the base body built now the chassis
     
  3. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    And the photos ....... we need evidence ....... regularly. :facepalm:
     
  4. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Well,

    back in the shed and on with the build. the main body is folded and soldered into shape as per my previous posts and prepared to take the white metal stanchions.

    i'd like to make the whole body a little more ridgid and try and ensure its perfectly square prior to soldering the white metal in place. Not just that, As i intend using normal solder to solder the main chassis to the main body, there could be a bit of prolonged heat applied to the whole assembly so I think it prudent to build the chassis and solder in place before starting on the white metal. The experts could maybe do it as suggested in the destructions as they can probably get " in and out " with the soldering iron quite quickly where as in my case I struggle to get " in and out " of bed.

    So ..... the chassis build begins .....


    not a great photo but ... an individual chassis member ( flat pack ) awaiting its torture on the folding jig. I appreciate that you cant see the half etched linees on the above but there are two, one top and bottom along its full length which will aid in forming this up into a C channel.


    and in the torture chamber ( jig )


    and the first fold is formed at 90 ( ish ) degrees.


    and once completed out of the jig.

    There are four of these long sections and a number of smaller sections, some with two folds and some with only one.


    I have completed the main four and have now started filing the sprue nibs of the smaller se ctions in readiness for forming into a C channel.

    More as it happens

    toto
     
  5. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    So ...... I had a dilema.

    couldn't remember if any images showed my brandy glass so I thought ....... Mmmmmm :scratchchin: better get the remainder of these sections bent up and posted in case they think I'm simply having a wee swary to myself ....... keep it in mind ..... all these sections needed filing etc prior to bending ..... so I have been busy.

    here is the evidence ( unlike Dundee )


    now .... Dundee suggested a jig in order to get this underbody chassis to form straight and true.

    possibly .... simply ..... made out of card or grey board, So ..... thats my next step ...... my focus is now on a jig to hold these little blighters together whilst soldering.

    More as it happens.

    cheers

    toto
     
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  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    OK photo's - sheesh you'll wanting blood next
    The body



    Underframe parts


    Caught up now


    The sole bars need to be spaced apart by 46mm to the inside face, so I printed up a tmplate, then used magnets to hold the parts in place


    Working on the inner beams now

    Paul
     
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  7. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Very good .... see .... you too can be a jedi. ..... may the forces of darkness ( soldering ) be with you. I've been mulling the jig idea over in my head and I think I may try using card. Tacking it down to a piece of ply to hold things in place. I'll put up photos of my crude idea when I get into the shed. I will be starting it later.

    Nice progress Sir.

    Toto
     
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  8. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    We are flying now ...... Chassis well on the move. ...... and all using my heath Robinson card support method ....


    and some solder ....


    and the second end goes in .....


    and we get ..........


    and the inards start to go in .......


    just four diagonal bracing pieces to go ...... more as it happens

    toto
     
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  9. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    getting there ......


    and slightly different angle .....


    still needs a good clean up. its had pass 1 with the clean but further to go.

    cheers

    Tom
     
  10. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    A few other general shots .....


    end on ......


    and side on .....


    one last one for now .......

    then I'll be on to the white metal ........

    thats for later ..... cheers

    toto
     
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  11. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    The white metal has commenced.


    and so far so good.

    more later

    toto
     
  12. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Further progress with both sides being completed.


    however ..... side two ..... not on show yet met with two casualties and I shall have to procure two castings as they suffered quite badly.

    photos up when I stop crying like a child ........ it was all going so well too.

    never mind

    toto
     
  13. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Toto which castings have damaged ? ... If they are banding straps and can be scratched put them in the post to me and I'll do my best to replicate something acceptable and then post back.

    cheers Yorkie
     
  14. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Yorkie,

    I have a couple of options. I have another couple of the same kit ( at least one ) so I can rob the parts for now to let me complete. I could get Dundee to rattle up some 3d versions and cast my own or take you up on your offer and send down a couple of examples and have them scratched.

    The first option would mean using a whole mould in order to get just a couple of these supports but I suppose it would get the job done. I could cast enough to make a complete set and then they could possible ne used for other similar items in the future. Unlikely to be over used I suspect.
    Toto
     
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  15. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Looking good Toto, don't be downhearted about cocking a couple of the castings up though, it's all part of the learning curve with white metal and you're not the first and won't be the last to bu66er up a casting or two. As you're discovering, it's not too difficult soldering white metal as many may think, but it just needs to take the first step and actually DO IT to gain confidence and realise that 'actually, it's not that difficult' once you get the hang of it. Well done, looking pretty good so far.:thumbup:
    Keith.
     
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  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    So disaster hit for me

    I decided to print a template - using Solid Edge, however, it applies a scaling factor which printed at 50 mm instaed of 46, I noticed this, and removed the scaling factor - must find out how I disable this as its caught me out before. Printed again and now spot on.

    However what I didn't do was rip up the worng print, and guess which numpty then picked and used the wrong one :facepalm:

    Using a 6mm thick steel plate with the template on top. Magnets used to hold the parts in place, and it produced a really flat and square chassis,





    The body soldered on perfectly as well, then a question from Toto, "how far in from the end of the buffer beam is your sole bar, that sinking feel came over me as I looked at mine and it was almost flush, tried the W iron and the wheels didnit even reach. Measured the distance between the sole bars and it was 52 mm 6mm too large.

    I then had to dismantle the whole lot, and on re-assembly (following the instructions) it was warped to hell :hammer:

    Ended up doing it the way I did originally and make up the chassis held down onto the steel build plate, then solder on the body - it's now flat - phew.

    Now trying to catch up with the gaffer, so have fitted the buffers, bump stops, vac pipes

    and now the first set of W irons, aligned up with the embossed bolts on the solebar.

    Using my 3d printed wheel jig I'm setting up the 2 nd axel.



    Paul
     
  17. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    In the past I've had a few hairy moments like that too, as Keith says "all part of a learning curve", thankfully with a bit of thought these issues can be resolved successfully. Job is looking good Dundee and I bet once built and under a coat of paint it will look brilliant.:tophat::thumbup:
     
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  18. Chatty

    Chatty Full Member

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    However what I didn't do was rip up the worng print, and guess which numpty then picked and used the wrong one :facepalm:

    I have the copyright on that. I will send you a bill.

    Really, nice looking wagon. Good to see a "real" underframe.

    Kind regards

    Geoff
     
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  19. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Send me one of your doobries Paul. :thumbs:
     
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  20. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Today will see the dodgy white metal castings being replaced with others from a second kit. Then I will attack the wagon ends including the buffers.

    Buffers first as these will go on with normal solder before going in with 100 degree solder on the remaining white metal casts.

    The W irons, wheels and brake gear will be last. Dundee's doobry should help hold the wheels at the correct spacing whilst going in with the iron on the W irons ( with a bit of luck ).

    Cheers

    Toto
     

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