Another tip for the use of epoxy is keep all those little plastic pots that come with Slaters wheels,buffers etc. they make great mixing pots for epoxy and can be thrown away afterwards. I know that some people just mix it on bit's of card etc. but I find that I end up with it all over if I don't keep it contained but I am too tight to buy containers....
Mine is hung up in my shed and has been there for maybe 2/3 years and I used it the other day. Personally I prefer the two separate tubes and I do have some, somewhere , can I find them? huh. Any way I have found that the syringe type, when pressed, give slightly less on one side than the other for some reason, its supposed to be equal amounts but I haven't had any trouble with the setting time. Cheers, Pete.
Funny you should mention that but I found that one side dispenses faster than the other qs well. I still have to go to the shed this morning and check the result but going on the way it was setting over the initial 5 minute period, I have full confidence that all will be fine. I'll be using it again today to fix the boiler door into position on my Ramsbottom. Cheers Toto
... or if you want to make a model of a parcel office you can use the little square ones to make model packages with, its great living in Yorkshire... all these money saving tips folks can get.
Hello All, in Australia, we have soft plastic milk bottles with hard plastic screw top lids. I find the screw top lids a good mixing pallet, sufficiently large for most 5 minute epoxy jobs, and I have a store of plastic lids ! I also find it better to mix for one job at a time, ( hence the store of lids ), otherwise the epoxy can go off. I also find that after a few days I can peel out the dried epoxy from the lid for future use, so re-use is quite practicable. Properly mixed epoxy will attach itself to a suitable surface, and any attempt to break the bond will result in the joined surfaces pealing off, but the epoxy remaining intact. In the late 1960s, an advert for an industrial grade epoxy ( light grey in colour ) featured the RH&DR hauling a train where the coupling was two steel plates joined by the featured epoxy. Regards, Echidna
I found if you pull the syringe back a little bit, the adhesives go back in the tubes, and thus stops the protection cap from sticking . Hope this helps. Phil from Australia
I'm not using the syringes though. The screw-on cap on the tube has glued itself on and even hot water is not loosening it.
Well I decided to do a little more work on my LNER J69 and I tried to fit the rear sand boxes to the frames using the 2 pack epoxy in the syringe. I finished up chucking it in the bin as when the plunger eventually depressed it squirted a large amount into my mixing pot, most of which seems to be the adhesive and very little hardener. I left it overnight but it still hadn't set so I dumped the rear of the frames into some acetone which fetched it all off and started again with tubed araldite which I found well hidden in front of my nose on the shed wall. Much better! Cheers, Pete.
Cave! It does not like ultra violet light and should be painted/coated or it will go yellow and brittle. Doug
