ACME Bullied light Pacific kit

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul blythe, Jun 29, 2020.

  1. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    20200705_114519.jpg 20200705_114529.jpg
    The cab went together suprisingly well. A little tricky due to the cab roof being a continuation of the sides with a small roof part in between. I had to build the front of the cab up as the roof sloped down towards the front. This was done by adding a thin strip of brass to the top of the cab front, which the rests on.
     
  2. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Nice work Paul and a cracking move modifying that cab front too. I suspect this accounts for why a previous build thread on another forum recorded that the cab drooped forwards... I've also seen a completed ACME Princess Royal which looks like it had sustained a karate chop between the firebox and cab. Well done and nice work for sorting that issue... its looking really good.:thumbs::tophat::tophat::tophat:
     
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  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    And when the paint goes on no one will ever know

    Paul
     
  4. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    Ive seen that same Karate chop on many Lner pacifics too. a common problem with taper boilers on kits. Luckily the taper on the West country is on the underside so I will hopefully get the top parallel despite the boiler/smokebox/firebox being in 5 pieces.
     
  5. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    this is my thinking too. I have sanded the front of the cab down and the joint is barely perceptible even with no paint on
     
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  6. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    20200715_192618.jpg
    I've been working on the tender chassis this time. All relatively straightforward. I had to redrill the holes for the break hangers to keep the brake blocks away from the wheels.
     
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  7. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    There is something rather satisfying I think seeing the tender go together... nice work Paul
     
  8. jimmy styles

    jimmy styles Full Member

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    This is looking great I’m enjoying the build
     
  9. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    I agree. all of those nice heavy castings give it a satisfying amount of weight too.
     
  10. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    :thumbup::thumbup:
     
  11. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    i really need to learn to use less solder as i have a big cleanup job. Some more progress. Next problem found, rear wheels foul lower firebox (i've not even got the ash pans on yet) and the motion bracket fouls the front driver. Both relatively easy to solve ill just have to file the firebox a little and raise the motion bracket as the slot is slightly too deep. the firebox was easier to form than expected. i just used the cab front as a guide and bent the top round a brass bar. The 37 in the background is the old kit now produced by PRMRP and represents a loco from my youth 37408 Loch Rannoch which for a short time after being a Scottish loco was allocated to Immingham for Oil trains and made a nice change from railfreight livery locos


    20200803_222325.jpg
     
  12. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Nice one Paul... great when things start to take shape and they look even nicer when the detail dressing goes on. I'm sure you will overcome the clearance issues. Will you need to move the motion bracket forwards a tad... when I did my Transport Age BR standard class 4 tender loco I had similar issues with that cylinder saddle being wrongly drawn on the etches. It was 2mm out of sync but a GA drawing sorted the problem.

    I bet Toto will love that Scottie dog Tractor in the background.

    Nice work you have going on.:tophat::tophat::tophat::thumbs:
     
  13. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    Technically the motion bracket is in the correct place relative to where it should be on the loco but no account has been taken for scale model clearances. This causes the flanges of the wheels which of cause have to be slightly larger than scale to catch. Theres a similar problem with the brake gear on the tender
     
  14. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    Reading through the instructions for the Clan I notice Jim says that the motion bracket on that kit is 2mm too far back as well. Seems to be a common problem. I wish this kit had instructions as clear as the Clan ones where errors are pointed out and suggestions of how to get round them pointed out. Some might say that the errors should have been designed out but i can understand the economics of that especially in the days of hand drawn artwork. The Bulleid instructions consist of airfix style isometric drawings with a very short piece of text saying assemble in number order.
     
  15. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    This is the time when a General Arrangement drawing comes in handy as a cross reference to prove the correct positions and size of parts. So is it clearances on both loco's motion brackets which are too close to the mainframe ?
     
  16. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    looking at drawings it appears that the motion brackets are technically in the correct place and also the correct size. Where they attach to the chassis, they are just touching the wheel flanges. No compromise has been designed in to allow for the oversize flanges on Slaters wheels. That's not criticism of Slaters. They have to work within the machining tolerances and also dead scale flanges would not work as the loco would derail.
     
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  17. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I guess in reality Paul the real loco would have just a few mill clearance between flange and motion bracket casting, only advice I can offer is ensure the forward driving wheelset won't "hunt" within the frames and shim the axle to bearing bush with suitable packing washers which keep the wheels aligned centrally in the frames then file the motion bracket to suit where clearance is needed.
     
  18. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    20200908_124808.jpg
    Heres the offendng piece. we are talking fractions of millimetres. I do wonder if the slots in the frames are a little too deep. if i pack a piece of spare etch underneath i could raise the brackets slightly then file a little off the bottom as you say. Good shout on shimming the wheels. I think sideplay on the front wheels needs to be at a minimum for crank pin clearances. This photo shows i need to clean those wheels and maybe blacken them too
     
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  19. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    From looking at the picture I'd suggest maybe taking a needle file to the offending part of that near bracket and making enough clearance for the wheel flange to pass unhindered. As a double belt and braces measure the area on the bracket nearest to the wheel flange can always be given a coat of black nail varnish as electrical insulation... I doubt it will very much be noticeable anyway particularly as the motion brakets are set on the frames in the correct position.
     
  20. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    P9110047.JPG
    The join between boiler and firebox. lets call it interesting. The top part has a casting which can easily be blended in. The bottom part is up to the builder. i have a plan involving thin brass sheet and low melt solder or filler.... just waiting for some flux to arrive in the post. the joys of not having a model shop nearby
     
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