This'll keep me busy for a while!

A few days ago browsing on Ebay (that's deadly for a start!) I came across a seller with a number of different 0 gauge point kits for sale, and I had yet to get hold of any points for my intended 0 gauge layout. I'd never heard of the maker ("Waverley") so PM'd Pete (Jakesdad) and asked if he'd heard of them and were they worth a punt. He got back to me saying He'd had a few of them in the past, business owner had passed away so the range ended, and they were excellent. Before I had chance to go back and look again, Pete let me know He'd just bought several, a pretty good recommendation in itself, so I jumped in and bought 4 Left Hand and 5 Right hand kits, good value at £20 each, considering that Peco points are £46 each even at "Rails" prices, saving me around £180, just got to build them now! He also suggested I look at Marcway in Sheffield, so I had a trip over there yesterday and bought a couple of boxes of 10 x 1 yard track at £60 a box, plus a right hand curved point at £38.50 as the Ebay seller didn't have these, so this'll do me for now. Anyone interested, I can't seem to do a link, but Ebay item 254744515675 will find one type. This is my stash!
Keith.

 

Nah, just getting the stuff together ready for making a start on the garage layout next Spring when the weather (hopefully!) warms up. I already have half a dozen 1 yard lengths of Peco Bullhead track and I'll need a bit more but I'll buy that when I've made a start and know how much I'll need to complete the layout. 0 gauge track ain't cheap so there's no point in having lots left over.
So far I've accumulated a Lenz LZM100 controller, LH100 handset, TR150 5 amp transformer, a 24 volt DC regulated power supply and CDU for the points, 3 Lenz 4 way DCC point switching units, a 4 unit rolling road, and now have all 10 points and another 20 yards of track I need (unless I decide on extra 'modifications'). I just look upon it as being prepared when I come to start the job as I'm sure many will agree there's nothing more frustrating than being held up for want of some small item, especially with more lockdown situations (We are now in the "High" group in North Derbyshire), I have 100 rail joiners on the way and next will be 8 rail built buffer stops and another 5 Hattons point motors, scenic items I'll wait until the track is laid and tested before deciding what will go where, depending on available space. At least with 10 points to build, the 02 to complete, "Queen Mary" brake van to build and who knows what else kitwise I might be tempted with, I'll have plenty to keep me occupied with or without lockdown.

Keith.

 

Having run out of kits to build, I intended taking Pete's (Jakesdad) kind offer of a 'Masterclass' in point-building, but due to the ongoing Covid situation (tier 4 currently in Derbyshire) there seems little chance of that happening in the foreseeable future, so after a thorough perusal of the 'destructions' (3 A4 sheets) supplied with these "Waverley" points kits, it seemed perfectly straightforward, so I decided to take the plunge, after all, what could possibly go wrong???
Basically, they are a soldered construction, and soldering is something I've been doing for over 60 years, so as the kits 'sleepers' are copperclad in the same way as electronics printed circuit boards, it isn't going to be 'Rocket Science', as a layout plan for the point is provided with each kit, and I've 5 Left Hand, 4 Right Hand and one "Marcway" Right Hand Curved point to build, enough to keep me busy for a while.
I've never built track before, but if I can do it then there's no reason why others who haven't built track before shouldn't be able to achieve decent results too, and as these kits cost only £20 each (an Ebay buy) as opposed to £38.50 for Marcway and well over £40 each for Peco, it's a great saving. Anyway, time to break out the 80 Watt soldering iron! Why 80 Watt you may ask? Well, with plenty of heat reserve, I can be in and out with the iron quickly rather than 'roasting' the copperclad off the backing, not a job this time for my usual 'Iroda' gas torch methinks!

 

So here's what the kit contains. 3 A4 sheets of instructions, quite clear and straightforward, plus all the bits, which includes the tie bar that actually moves the point blades.

 

The instructions suggest taping the 'actual size' plan onto a suitable flat bit of board, then sticking a length of double-sided tape (not supplied) down the middle of the straight track to fix the 'sleepers' in place whilst the soldering takes place, so here we are ready to make a start.

 

Next the 'sleepers are stuck, copper face uppermost of course, into position on the 'plan'. According to the instructions, the sleeper layout shown was standard for all BR regions except the Western, the sleepers on GWR track at the breakaway point of the points were cut separately and angled at the curvature. My intended layout will be an Ex-Southern Region 'Heritage' railway, so the standard sleeper layout it is for me.

 

So first job is to position the straight stock rail along the diagram, using the supplied holding templates (gauges) and a couple of old 'Lima' loco weights to keep things in place ready for soldering. The instructions state that the copperclad sleepers have been pre-fluxed, but due to the age of these kits, I'm doubtful that any pre-applied flux would still be viable, so I brush on flux (I've recently tried "Powerflow" Plumbers white paste flux with excellent results, so have 'sidelined' my usual Phosphoric acid flux for now) to 5 or 6 of the sleepers at intervals along the stock rail.

 

......and apply solder to the newly fluxed sleepers to hold the stock rail securely in position. It's advisable to check for straightness at this point in case any adjustment is required.

 

Next is positioning and fixing the crossing Vee, easily done using the supplied gauges.

 

With the crossing Vee in place, the curved stock rail can now be positioned again using the supplied gauges. (One under right hand weight)

 

Again, soldering is done on 5 or 6 sleepers at intervals along the curved stock rail.

 

Once you're happy with rail positions, all the remaining sleepers can be soldered to the stock rails. Next we come to the Wing Rails, again positioned using the supplied gauges.

 

Both Wing Rails now in place. These did need slight shortening to align with lengths shown on the plan.

 

Now for the check rails, here's the first in position.

 

.......and the second.

 

Before we position the switch blades, it's best to fit the tie rod into position, though some slight work on it is required first. In the kit is a short bit of Phosphor Bronze wire, so a 10mm or so piece is soldered into each of the inner eyelets in the tie rod. These will be bent and soldered into the edge of each switch blade to actuate the blades. Here's the rod ready to fit.

 

As in the above pic, with the switch blades soldered into place, we are now ready for tie rod fitting. This slides in between the relevant sleepers, phosphor bronze wires bent into the web of each switch rail and soldered in place. As the eyelets are free to revolve in the tie bar material, this avoids any strain being placed on the wires as a result of point actuation.

 

Previous pic shows in switched position, here's one in the straight ahead position. (Weight holding tie bar across.)