Highland Railway Drummond 0-4-4T Passenger Tank

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, Jan 11, 2019.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Spoiler alert - we have motion, while I type this up, the motor is running in - YES!!! :)

    Now how did I get there

    I had to narrow down the veroboard to just 4 strips wide, and 8 holes wide to allow the board to be fitted transversely and the sockets to be fitted at the outer edges of the board.


    The drivering wheel pickups and motor are soldered direct to the board.


    The DC plug was made up


    And the whole lot assembled.


    On to the rolling road


    Not setup the coupling rods (or pins on the wheels).

    Running at 5.6V @ 0.03A, stall current 0.12A. 4mm DCC decoder it is then another YES !!! then.

    Paul
     
  2. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Many congratulations!!:thumbs::worship::tophat:
     
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  3. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    Well done Paul...:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:
    Are you getting any noise from the gears or are they running quietly.?????
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Guy's

    The gear noise on the plastic gears is negliable, most coming from the worm, but overall is reasonable - I've got noiser loco's, well see what its like with a body mounted.
    I ran it for over 3 hours the the motor temp only raised by 3 degrees from 18.3 to 21.2, ambient was 18.3

    A delivery from Slaters of a second set of wheels, as I've decided to have a 2nd completed loco, both probably in HR Green, the post 1916 livery Dark Moss Green, as nobody makes it I'm settling on Tamiya Deep Green XF-26, unless anyone can suggest a better match.

    I do need to do a riveted version of the smoke box, but not just yet.

    I need to progress on my brass loco kit back log, but will start to create the 3D models / assemblies to create a HR Barney 0-6-0 and a Small Ben 4-4-0, these will be an interesting project as they can be paired with 6 or 8 wheel tenders. And I suppose before that I really need to make some stock for them to pull. I should follow my own advice to Toto, plan and build a train, so results will seen more quickly and you keep up the variety. The advantage of 3D modelling once you've sorted all the bugs inthe first one, seemingly you just press print.

    Time to strip down the bogie and chassis and sort out the crank pins and paint up the wheels and bogie.

    Paul
     
  5. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    Sounds good,
    I suppose any noise that you do have from the gears will be suppressed somewhat with the body fitted.
    Let`s face it..........they have to make some noise......:lol:
    As someone who knows nothing about 3D printing, I too would assume that once print one bugs are all sorted.........yes for future prints, all you have to do is push " PRINT "
    Simples..........:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:
    :tophat:Gormo
     
  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    No progress on the painting side - my young lad has bought a transit van for conversion to a campervan, so guess who has been press ganged into helping out. Actually it's been great to see him again as he lives in Glasgow and he can now travel to the far east (Dundee) and the van seems to have found a new home :avatar:.

    Got a free day - it's been raining and my allotted tasks for this week are to underseal the floor patches we applied and change the fuel filter, so I took the opportunity to work on the brake gear.

    First up the brake linkages from the front and rear wheel and the rear wheel and the cam.

    upload_2021-4-26_17-18-0.png

    To connect each part next

    upload_2021-4-26_17-20-28.png

    Then a lever

    upload_2021-4-26_17-22-59.png

    and finally the bracket stepped to attach to the chassis

    upload_2021-4-26_17-24-24.png

    0.9 and 0.7 mm brass wire will be used to join it all up.

    All of the bits assembled into Chitubox, plus the brake shoes and brake levers, and two full sets made up.

    upload_2021-4-26_17-26-44.png

    Now I just need to wait a couple of hours

    Paul
     
  7. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Loads of progress since I last popped on Paul. Well done.
     
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  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Print has completed, but I'm not going to check it now - when I get up.

    Hopefully it will look like this when assembled

    upload_2021-4-27_1-1-18.png

    Paul
     
  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Been busy this week, and the weather has been against me - dry and sunny, how the hell am I supposed to get out of the SWMBO (and offsprings) todo list :facepalm:, however it's a bank holiday so rain is guaranteed :thumbup:, good to know some things in life can be relied on :avatar:


    There is only difference between the white (water based resin) and the grey (standard resin) is the type of resin used to make the parts. The Grey Standard Resin is stiffer, but apart from that nothing else to report.

    And the brakes


    0.7 dia wire (actually measures 0.6mm) was used to assemble the brake shoes and hanger with a spot of super glue to retain the wire.


    0.9 dia wire (actually measures 0.8mm) wire was used to form the cross beams

    Same for the cranks



    Linkages assembled on to the cranks etc



    However, I think I will remake the links, removing the round bar and placing a recess to allow brass wire to be used for the turnbukles - easier to adjust to final length.

    Paul
     
  10. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The new links are under the curing lamp, so I've taken the chance to design the front axle leaf springs and rear axle coil springs.

    upload_2021-5-3_14-14-25.png

    Now I know the leaf springs should be curved, but not sure how to do it on the 123D software, and they are obscured by the wheel, same applies to the coil springs (without coils).

    These are printing on my original Photn - so that's a 3 hour wait.

    upload_2021-5-3_14-19-48.png

    Both printed upside down so any marks won't be seen.

    On the leaf spring the center tab will but up against the inner edge of the chassis allowing the vertical round supports to pass behind the inner edge of the chassis.
    Similarly the coil springs also locate on the inner edge, super glue will be used to retain them.

    Paul
     
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  11. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I layered cropped circles!! Then you get the curve! Lol. Not hard but can be time consuming.

    that brake gear looks fab! 10/10!!!!
     
  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    I've done similar before, and as you say a pain in the ......
    I may look at meshmixer to try and deform the STL version, then re-import the file back, but STL's are also a pain in the .... to deal with within 123D. I'm sure Solidworks, Fusion 360 and Blender could do the distortion / bend, but that's a different mountain to climb.


    Print finished 2h5m, I forgot how much easier everything is with a small build plate




    Got a few tasks to do this evening (joe le taxi - again)

    Paul
     
  13. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Before I can fit the brake gear in place I need to paint the wheels ..... :eek:

    I started by applying 3mm masking tape to the wheel tread, then a strip of 6mm masking tape from the tread, over the flange and on to the rear.


    Then applied insulation tape to the rear of the wheel, and over the center boss.


    I did this for the first wheel, after that I applied the insulation tape on the rear before appling the 6mm masking tape.

    The bogie wheels were done in a similar fashion,


    however I replaced the 6mm masking tape with insulation tape as it would deform and wrap around the flange more easily. For two of the wheels, which were still on the axles, I taped up the axle as well.


    They were given a coat of Vallejo Grey surface primer used neat out of the bottle. Then several coats of Tamiya XF-26 Deep Green, my best guess at a Dark Moss Green, diluted 2 parts paint to 3 parts Tamiya X-20A thinner.


    I also tried it on the test body.

    Now before anyone gets excited, this is NOT Brunswick Green, I would have broken out in a rash if it was :avatar:

    Probably get another coat, then a coat of Humbrol gloss clear cote, not sure whether to spray or brush the clear cote.

    Paul
     
  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Oh forgot to mention the body had been painted with last of my Tamiya X-1 Black - I didn't notice it was a gloss - should have been the XF-1 the F denoting Flat or Matt.
    So I had masked up the smokebox, and foot plate.

    Paul
     
  15. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    In the words of George Formby... turned out nice again... which is more than can be said for the weather !
     
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  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    :avatar:

    Cheers Andy

    Unfortunately - too nice, I use this body as a test bed as it is an earlier version, but .........

    I have purchased a second set of wheels, as once completed I should be able to rattle off a second loco fairly quickly, and it will let me assemble all the bits onto a final set of print files. The number of versions on my usb stick is unreal.
    I'll also generate versions for both the Photon and Mono X

    Paul
     
  17. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Looks grand so it does! I like the colour, but I'm biased, I just like green. Clear lacquer will spray or brush well, a gloss finish will not show any (or very little) brush marks.

    Pete.
     
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  18. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Couple of more jobs done

    1st coat of Gloss Cote applied to the wheels, and masking removed


    Need to fit the crank pins

    And the bogie wheels


    A further gloss coat(s) will be applied by brush.

    The driving wheel springs have been glues in place and painted Matt Black


    Now waiting for the gloss cote to harden before fitting the crank pins

    Paul
     
  19. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I've removed the masking tape





    Has shown up 1 issue, Ineed to paint the red buffer beams on to the grey primer, however I need to check whether the buffer beams are red or green.

    Need to get some brass paint.

    Paul
     
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  20. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Vallejo do a really good 'brass' paint, I think it's called antique gold.

    I too really like the green colour :thumbup:
     

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