Now I start to move from an analytical viewpoint to the reality of getting the job done, physically creating my dream. There are plenty of tips and hints I can give you on the way whether you DiY or hire the trade skills you need. So please bear with me as I go through an exercise of 1:1 scale modelling, I’ll try not to waste your valuable modelling time. My Choice Given all the factors discussed in parts 7 and 8 I converted my preference to a decision by opting for a customised pre-fabricated (sectional) garage of 24x20ft from Compton. Plain undecorated concrete finish was chosen as I wanted to paint it to merge with the garden with the exception of the doors. You do not need to have a an up and over door at one end for a car. When I was getting quotes the pricing for an extra personnel door was the same as for an up and over door. So I opted for two personnel doors only. I chose steel doors with a hard wearing resin based paint which was only available in white. At least it is obvious if a door has not been closed, white against shadows. Another advantage was that the steel doors had significant locks and mechanism, after all they protect the building contents at its weakest point. Foundations and Approvals The whole process from foundations to final assembly was subject to building regulations but not planning regulations. But this still meant the details had to be submitted to the local council offices as drawings with structural calculations provided by Compton, this was processed by a local architect enlisted to design the foundations. The foundations were built by local builders to a base size specified by Compton with council approval at key steps in its construction. Due to the nature of the clay ground and nearby trees it was fairly substantial and cost more than the Compton structure! Structure Comptons pre-fabricated (sectional) garages were designed on a 4ft pitch between uprights. There was a restriction on the placing of windows and personnel doors to maintain structural integrity, they stated that there must be at least one column of plain panels between each column containing a door or a window. That’s fine, no windows and doors well apart. The roof was steel framed and covered with a breathable membrane sheet. Wood battens were attached to this to which the resin coated aluminium and steel laminate ‘tiling’ was anchored. Guttering from front and back were fed to a soak away in the garden, one via a water butt. Bolts A small but important detail when specifying a building of pre-fabricated assembly is the length of the bolts holding it together. The panels are clamped to the uprights with bolts through the uprights and metal plates which bear onto the panels. If you are to line out the building you need to select the option of using longer bolts throughout the building instead of the standard length. The standard length bolts are long enough for the job in an unlined structure such as a garage, but you will need extra length for attaching brackets for anchoring the studwork uprights and the extra nuts to secure them. Electrics – Phase 1 Two electricity feeds were laid down the garden from the house consumer unit, one for power and light and the other for heating, terminating in separate consumer units in the building, all installed professionally and certified. The electrician also installed a minimal power ring main, sockets for heaters on individual spurs and basic lighting, once certified I was then permitted under the regulations of the time to modify them to suit my requirements. Warning: This may be different now, also if you contemplate doing any of the electrics yourself be aware of current regulations. Latest guide books written for the trade are the best, available from libraries or online bookstores. Absolutely no guessing, guessing can result in fires and/or electrocution! Next, walls and flooring, Jim. Index of Articles with Links The reporting office for loco crews arriving and departing the marshalling yard loco servicing facilities.
My garage is a Compton Jim, and as you say, the bolts securing the concrete sections together are over length so lend themselves to securing 50mm x 25mm slate laths mounted vertically. These are pre-treated with an anti-rot chemical so have a long life, and allow something substantial to fix internal panelling (in my case, "Oriented Strand Board", otherwise known as OSB) to. As my roof (replaced last year with box profile 'Plasticoated' steel sheets" with anti-condensation covering on the underside) is not underdrawn to allow for the required ventilation, there was no point in insulating the side walls, not a problem as I don't anticipate any winter use. Keith.
Hi Keith, in my case I had to specify over length, also my studwork verticals are stood off from the uprights by brackets to add an air gap and minimise thermal conduction between the studwork and the concrete walls. oh dear, your cars will shiver, have you no heart Jim
