Connoisseur Models LMS Fowler 4F

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Toto, Sep 2, 2017.

  1. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I thought I was missing something reading the earlier posts as that’s what I would have done.. but, I suspect Toto had t realised that till too late.
     
  2. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi folks,

    It's been a while since I started this build with a few things setting me back including going self employed and Covid has not help as I although not directly infected, I've had a few indirect issues as a result.

    Anyway,

    I was visiting Dundee's mansion today ( Paul_l ) and as part of my royal visit took the 4f with me as one of the axles on the render had seized. I had tried WD 40 to free it up but to no avail. Paul reckoned he had done secret lotion that would free it up.

    So up to Dundee I went and sure enough, after a health spa in Dundee's lotion, the axle eased off. Dundee has offered to clean up the axles, slightly ream the bushes and spray the wheel sets in his blue metal finish. Well ........ how could I refuse. It now awaits it fate.

    I have to clear out the shed as due to the general neglect over the last 18 months or so, it's been cluttered with all sorts including my Indian Scout Bobber motorbike. Once this is done, I intend to commence the build of my latest purchase of my Bulleid Q1 and use this 4F build as something to jump in and out of when needing a change of scene from the Q1.

    The 4F loco build is also quite well progressed so I hope I can get the loco body and chassis back up to scratch and running before too long.

    I'll update as I go starting with a picture of where I have left off and what I intend to tackle next on the build.

    Fingers crossed

    Great to be back

    Toto
     
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  3. Toto it will be great to see this build progress further. :thumbup:
     
  4. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Seb,

    I'm not the fastest but I seem to have my mojo back after a considerable time out. This will be a filler project secondary to my Q1 as I fancy a fresh start after my absence. I will try and take small progressive steps in order to get this project over the line. I need to catch up exactly with where I left off and then slowly ease it forward until my confidence and soldering skills are revived.

    Thanks for your interest

    Toto
     
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  5. Toto my my hat goes off to you guys who build these etched kits with solder. I would not know where to start but I'm sure to watch your progress. :tophat:
     
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  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I can assure you that not that long ago, I had done nothing in terms of soldered kits. A couple of wagons and a small Ramsbottom kit ( only 90 % complete ) ....... BUT ..... that's what this place is all about. There are some great threads to soak up knowledge from and some excellent modellers who never seem to tire of voluntarily giving their advice and encouragement.

    What needs to be remembered is that you cant expect to reach the competence of the more skilled on your first attempt. It's all about gradual improvement and gaining experience and YES , I would say that you may have to be prepared to sacrifice a kit if it doesn't work out. ( I've been there ).

    If you fancy a go, I'm sure there will be many who will advise accordingly with regards to the choice of a suitable first victim. :avatar: maybe something for later. We have given away both wagon and loco kits in our competitions so keep your eye open going forward.

    Cheers for now

    Toto
     
  7. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The lotion was WD40 Anti Friction Dry PTFE lubricant.
    There was also a lot of cleaning with my weapon of choice - a dremel fitted with a fibre wheel.

    Murphy has struck again, and hidden all my allen keys for the wheel nuts - ordered some up from ebay as I've ordered 5 price dropped from 99p each to 83p, against £3.20 +p&p from most of the model shops.

    All wheels look like they are made from steel and not rust, a little more polishing once the allen keys arrive or - murphy gives me back the others.

    Paul
     
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  8. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    It's not actually that difficult really, at least with decent kits like Big Jim's "Connoisseur" 7mm ones. Dodgy ones can easily make you lose the will to live if they are poorly thought out, crap etches/castings etc unless you really like a challenge! Mastering soldering isn't that hard, and if you do go for a Brass kit build, my advice would be don't touch the 70 degree stuff, 100 degree is best for white metal soldering, and I (like York Paul) use standard 60/40 multicore electronics solder for Brass/Nickel soldering, with a little additional flux where required. Using electronics 'solder wire' means you can cut small pieces and lay them along (for example) a boiler seam and just run heat along the seam melting as you go. My personal choice for kitbuilding is my 'Iroda' gas torch despite having half a dozen electric soldering irons between 15 and 100 watts, as I find this better. Having said this, I've been soldering for around 64 years now and back in the day, my Electrical apprentice years before the advent of crimp lugs, taught me use and more importantly, control of the gas torch so I find this easier, for very small stuff like lamp irons, I use the RSU (Resistance Soldering Unit). If you do decide to have a go, pick something simple (if you're into "0" gauge, one of Big Jim's wagon kits are an ideal starting point) to start with, then progress from there.
    Like Toto, I've stepped away from modelling since around last July, we all tend to get 'Loss of Mojo' from time to time, but I have a 7mm Rebuilt "Merchant Navy" kit waiting in the wings, (I'm very much a "Southern" fan too!) so in due course I need to get my backside in gear and make a start. When I do, it'll be on here, warts and all!
    Keith.
     
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  9. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Wot ee sed
     
  10. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    A wee question - once I've cleaned up Toto's shaft and bearings - he should be so lucky - what lubricating oils are friendly towards Slaters wheels ?
     
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  11. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I use Singer sewing machine oil and I haven't had any issues with it.
     
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  12. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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  13. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Cheers Gents - placed my order for the Singer sewing machine oil - I've potentially got a lot of axles to lub - toto is lining up a 4F, Ramsbottom 0-6-0T and a Q1, in his first batch, and I'll have a 4F and now an 8F in the near future (now whoose the eternal optimist).

    Paul
     
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  15. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Having to make sure i'm on the correct thread .......

    On Sunday during Toto's visit, after separating the chassis and tender bodies, Toto made an off the cuff remark "Oh I see you have slackened off the tender coupling".
    "Not that I'm aware of was my reply, I've only removed the two locating screws". Now while checking the fit of the two assemblies I noticed the coupling was tight and the front wasn't sitting correctly - problem found



    The locating screw is too long. I will adjust to length once the painting has been completed, and possibly put a dab of solder between nut and thread before trimming to length (with Toto's permission that is).

    Paul
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2022
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  16. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Well done sherlock.
     
  17. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Now Toto's tender chassis has had a Spa day it will never forget

    Wheels removed and given a clean - more later

    Next up remove the axles - 2 ok one decided to sick in the bearing, eventually the bearing broke loose. It did give access the shaft to allow some scrapeing with a blade to get the bearing off.

    Next up the shafts were put in the lathe (I didn't have a big enough collet for the dremel) and cleaned up first with P800 the P2000 wet n dry, with WD40 as the lubricant

    See if you acn guess the before and after


    The shafts were then heated with the Proxon mini blow torch then dropped in to a jam jar half filled with vegtable oil. This was repeated this time holding the other end with the pliers. After they were cool they were cleaned off with a paper towel and set aside.

    Back to the wheels - boy have they had a hard time, cleaned again with a fibre wheel in the dremel. The backs cleaned up with P2000 / WD40 rubbed on a flat surface.
    All Cleaned in IPA (the 3D wash n cure comming in handy).
    Then cleaned with Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust remover, cleaned in water then another IPA bath prior to Staining with the Birchwood Casey Permanrnt Blue.
    Approx 3 to 5 mins before cleaning. Now to be left to cure for 24 hours.

    And the results so far look like this


    Well see how they look tomorrow to see if further application is required.

    Now the chassis, all chassis bearings reamed out. The bearing that came out has been cleaned up and re-solderd in using a shaft to maintain algnment.

    All shafts spin freely. Currently having a second bath in the ultrasinic cleaner.

    Photo's to follow later

    Paul
     
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  18. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Well done.

    The mighty 4F survives to see another day.:avatar:

    Toto
     
  19. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    As promised the chassis after the ultrasonic baths.


    I will wash it in IPA just prior to spraying.

    Now a quick question - Nickel Silver do I prime it with Etching Primer or standard primer ?

    Paul
     
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  20. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Normally I'd base coat nickel silver with Halfords grey primer, I find it grabs much better than an etch primer if left a few days to cure... in fact I use Halfords primer as a general base coat for everything. Other's may dispute of course.
     
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