Great Chesterford Junction Part Two

........here we go......
Gormo

 

Meanwhile, back at the ranch.....
Today was my first visit back to the shed for a while to do any work on Bamford control panels.
I have had a sizable break, but life is not all model railways and beer and skittles.
The first image is of the base complete with angle fitted for the 5 lever frame.




It`s not a simple process and much drilling and cutting, filing and sanding required





And the back view. The little strip of timber in the lower part of the pic supports the rockers and at the same time acts as a spacer to allow more movement.





Putting it all back together......I still need to make the rods.....that`s a job for tomorrow.





The panel also needs holes drilled for switches and LEDs.





I use a hole punch to punch thought the schematic first. This prevents the drill from tearing the schematic as is passes through. So the punch has been through this lot and even takes some timber with it sometimes.





Test fitting a switch to check the hole size





And a mock up to see how we`re going. The boxes will not be spaced this close in their final location, so this pic was posed to just emphasize the continuity of the theme across the split system.




Gormo

 

Thanks Chris........yes it is....
Gormo

 

G`day Folks,
Well I took the plunge today.......no turning back now. I have started removing the sections of baseboard on Bamford to accommodate the new control panels.
First thing to do was relocate a screw that was in the baseboard support timber and directly under one of my cut lines. Once that was sorted, careful marking out was done and then at it with a jig saw. It was a little snug to start with so some material was removed with a rasp and now we have a good fit.
As I said....too late to turn back now.




I had to rig up a temporary jig to hold the enclosure in place accurately so I could drill holes for the securing screws. I know these days all your DIY guys on TV just go for it, they don`t drill pilot holes, they just whack the screws in. I have found through many years of screws not following the path you would like them to follow, that if you want accuracy......drill first......a little time lost in preparation saves a lot of time trying to fix a bad fit.





This is the extent of the panel`s intrusion into the layout.....52 mm deep and 43 mm high. It won`t be too difficult to hide this.





I have allowed for the enclosure to protrude by 3 mm. When an MDF fascia panel butts up to the enclosure it will be flush at the front.





There is some lens distortion here....the cabinet looks bowed but it`s not. This shows how it sits height wise viewed from the front.
This is a temporary installation as the control panel needs to be varnished next. I wanted to have the securing screw holes in the baseboard sorted out before the varnishing process to avoid scuffing the enclosure too much. Once varnished it can go straight in without any fuss or damage.





This morning I cut a set of rods for the smaller lever frame, so this one is finished and ready to be temporarily installed too.




So we follow the same processes, however this time I could clamp some timber to the first enclosure to create a shelf for the smaller lever frame to sit on.




That made it decidedly easier to keep it in place whilst the holes were drilled for the securing screws




You can see here how the bases of the enclosures sit just slightly lower than the steel support.
The fascia will also drop down to this level, it will appear that we will have a nice clean line along and below the layout. I think fascias do a grand job of taking your eye back to the railway and remove the distractions of all the gubbins and rubber bands and miles and miles of wire that looks like spaghetti, and chewing gum and old rusty nails underneath.




This is the gap between the two panels........necessary I`m afraid in this instance, however this could be a road or maybe an overgrown patch of land full of rubbish....who knows ???...we`ll work that out when the major engineering works are done.




After varnishing we will get into the good stuff connecting up points and wiring up the control panel.
For the moment.....adieu !!
Monsieur Gormo

 

No worries Phil.......I`ll keep the head in check....
Yes I had old points and second hand flex track of various lengths and all of various brands.
I tried to keep the Peco stuff for the scenic areas and the mostly Atlas points for the fiddle yard. However that said I have used some Roco and Atlas points on the scenic area.
The main thing to watch on old points is firstly the tip of the frog....the pointy end...it can become rounded down and cause problems with running. Also on the older points there tends to be a bigger gap between frog and running rails which can cause some newer wagons to drop a wheel down into the gap.
I used the old stuff to get the railway running but with the intention that if an old point gave trouble, I would replace it with new. So far that hasn`t happened.
It`s also good to add some extra feeds to points from point blades to running rails. Old points may not make a secure electrical connection between blade and running rail, so a wire connection will sort that out.
Old track is old track, but if it is straight and true and you add plenty of wire droppers and feeds, it will be fine.
If you mix old and new and then paint it all your desired rail colour, you will be hard pressed to tell the difference.
Gormo

 

First coat of varnish
This needs to be rubbed back when dry and then a further two coats applied in the same manner and then a final buff with Beeswax.




Gormo

 

I`ve also resurrected a drawing with signal box signage. The original drawing was done in Open Office, so when opened in LibreOffice there were just a couple of alignment issues with text and boxes. Fairly easy to fix and now we have an up to date set for further use.



I now have to get on and design the signal box artwork for the back of the lever frames.
Gormo

 

Today the varnishing and polishing was finished, so the enclosures could be installed.
The wires trailing underneath are still attached to the old temporary panel




Here`s the baby all on his lonesome




And big brother




There is still plenty of clearance for the sliding yard




The view from the scenic side of the layout




So what you can see of the enclosures here will be covered by buildings or whatever, so from this view the panels do not exist.




We`re getting closer to take Bamford layout apart day......some thought required on the best approach to this....

Gormo

 

Just had a late delivery in the post.
I won two Lima BR Class 33`s recently on fleabay.
They have been in storage unprotected for 20 years, but they have survived reasonably well.
I got the two of them for 50 dollars Australian, which is a bargain I think.
They both run, but I need to strip them down and clean and lubricate them. The wheels are filthy and I`m surprised they ran at all.
I also need to get a couple of buffers sorted out, but I have a good base to work with and I think they`ll be fine....they should clean up rather well...




Gormo

 

G`day Jim,
Yes I`ve found once all parts are cleaned, the mechanisms are very good.
The Lima gears also seem to like INOX......I have been using it for some time now and I have another Class 33 that has been serviced with it and that will run down to less than walking pace on Analogue. The loco just purrs along.
Anyway these two latest little 33`s will need to be stripped right down and cleaned, they also need couplings, but that will be no big deal.
Back to Bamford.
Gormo

 

G`day Jim,
INOX is an Australian made lubricant.....see the link below which gives a run down on it.
https://www.inoxmx.com/products/mx3-lubricant/
Gormo