Yarrawa Terminus Layout.

Discussion in 'Planks, Switching and Shelf Layouts' started by red clubbie, Apr 11, 2022.

  1. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Thanks for the comments Gary.

    I've got those Layouts book marked for reference....:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

    I will probably review those weights in order to make the rolling stock a bit lighter.

    I had a question that I need some help on...
    It relates to rail joiners and in particular where they are on points.
    If you look at a point with the Y at the top, the 2 inner rails of the Y would have insulated joiners with the rest metal ones, ie, the bottom rails of the Y and the 2 outside rails of the Y.

    If you look at the pic of my #3 and #4 points, I'm not sure what joiners to attach with because the points Y's are facing each other?
    The top rails of #4 point is the passing loop and the bottom rails of #3 is the goods siding.

    Cheers,
    Geoff.

    004.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2022
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  2. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Geoff, insulate all four rails coming off the frog.


    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  3. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Thanks Gary.

    I thought that insulating all 4 could be a possibility, but I wasn't sure.
    I assume the locos will run over the joins between #3 and #4 OK?

    Is the power fed from either end in order to cross?
    As you can see, electrics is not a strong point for me....:facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm:

    Thanks for the comment on the 50 Class, it's a Eureka Model.
    I weathered it, added brass cab numbers and a front KD, as I need it to run either way.

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
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  4. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    I would recommend adding droppers to each piece of track, especially if you are going with DCC. This will be beneficial for power supply. If you are sticking with DC, add a power feed from the toe end of the points.

    If you are not going down the DCC route and opting DC, you could also add link wires from the stock rails to the blades to ensure positive electrical continuity.


    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  5. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    I see you are in Sydney and if you would a hand with the electric, I can assist. Send me a message via our messaging service if you need a hand.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  6. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Gary,

    I am going DCC and I have made the necessary DCC mods to the points. i have put droppers on the outer rails of the points.
    I do intend to add droppers to every piece of flexi track also.

    Thanks for your kind offer to assist and if I get in over my head, I might take you up on the offer...:thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
  7. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Geoff, you will also need to put a separate feed to the crossing V, frog, that is switched for polarity from the switch blades, either via an electrical switch if you are using point motors or a manual switch if you are going down the wire in tube method, Gary has done an excellent tutorial on this subject. Or you could go the way of frog juicers that automatically change the polarity by some sort of witchcraft that senses where the loco is!!!
    Anyway, keep the posts coming we love a layout build!

    Pete.
     
  8. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Hi Pete,

    I am using Cobalt IP Digital DCC point motors on the Layout. I have attached a green wire to each of the point frogs and was going to connect them into their own point motor.

    You make mention of a polarity switch, do I need this for the above shown points, where the toe of the points face each other?
    Does the point motor not take care of this?

    From Gary's comment, I thought I just had the connect the 2 points together, heel to heel, via 2 insulated rail joiners and that would be all I had to do?

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2022
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  9. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    The point frog should be completely isolated from the rest of the point and have its own power supply from the point motor via the green wire. I haven't had anything to do with Cobalt motors so I don't know how they are set up, but I imagine they have a built in switching system. Just searched on line for Cobalt point motors and a link to a youtube channel called Simons Shed, he has made a how to video on wiring and installing his point motor. I must say they look a doddle to wire! no soldering or screw connecting. I recommend looking at how he did his.

    Pete.
     
  10. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Hi Pete,

    Thanks for your reply.

    Yes, the Cobalt IP Digital motors have their own polarity switching, so I don't think I need any additional switches.
    I think I am right in saying, that I put the 4 insulated rail joiners where Gary has shown and connect up each point with it's point motor as Simons Shed shows and I should be good to go.....

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
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  11. Wolseley

    Wolseley Full Member

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    Walker Models make some very nice kits. I have built a couple of them, including the QR cream shed, which sits, rather unprototypically, on a short siding on my layout. I didn't really have anywhere to put it, but I rather fancied the idea of having one. If I had more space I would get a few more of their kits.

    P1010817.jpg
     
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  12. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Yes they are nice kits.

    I have an A3 Station and a G2 Goods Shed to go on the Layout.
    I'm looking forward to building them.

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
  13. Wolseley

    Wolseley Full Member

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    Here's my other one, a model of the level crossing keeper's cottage at Uralla, I think it is. Unfortunately I have no room for any more.......

    P1010211.jpg

    P1010209.jpg

    Regards.

    Jim
     
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  14. Wolseley

    Wolseley Full Member

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    I don't mean this as a criticism of the kits, but I did feel that it needed decent looking guttering and drainpipes, so I added some Ratio ones.
     
  15. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    My post only answered your question on placement of insulated rail joiners, nothing about wiring them up for frog switching. ;)

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  16. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Yes, I was only asking about the rail joiners and you answered that question for me. Thank you.

    I am of the understanding that the Cobalt IP Digital motors will take care of the frog switching, as per their wiring diagram.
    At least I'm hoping so.....:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
  17. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    A bit more movement on the Layout.

    The points have been pinned in place and track laid on Module 2.
    I have attached droppers to all the points and track on the Module.

    I roughed out so Styrofoam to see how it would look next to the over bridge.
    I don't have a lot of room from the edge of the road to where the Goods Sidings are, so I just wanted to see how it might look.

    Moving on the track laying and wiring on Module 1 next. 022.JPG 026.JPG

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
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  18. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Another pic... 025.JPG

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
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  19. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    I have finished laying all the track and attaching the droppers.

    It was at this point that I realised that there was a problem with the storage tracks.....:facepalm:
    There are two tracks at the end of Module 2 that will act as staging tracks, but upon looking at them, I realised that they were going to be too short for the trains I wanted to run....:hammer::hammer::hammer:

    I set out a Loco, some wagons and a guards van and I only had room for 2 4 wheel wagons on the train. Total length 470mm.
    Don't ask me how I didn't realise this beforehand, but I didn't....:facepalm:

    What to do??

    Well I measured up a length of train that would be suitable for the Layout and I was about 350mm short.
    I decided to add another 350mm frame to cantilever off the end of Module 2.
    This will be removable and will be wired via T-Tap connectors into the BUS.
    This will give me 820mm storage on the 2 tracks.

    So it's back to more baseboard construction....:lol: :lol: :lol:

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
  20. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    G`day Geoff,
    We all make mistakes, but not all of us admit it......good on you..:thumbs:
    One of my favorite sayings is " Anyone who claims they have never made a mistake. never made anything "
    It`s good to nip it in the bud at this early stage, so don`t worry about it and you`ve got it sorted now anyway.
    So onward and upwards
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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