Antex 40 watt soldering iron

Discussion in 'Tools' started by Toto, Apr 30, 2020.

  1. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Arrived today.

    40 watts should be powerful enough for most soldering tasks and on the back of its bigger brother , the 80 watt version, thought I'd give it a bash. One big bonus other than reasonable power is the reduced tip size. Better for getting into smaller spaces than the cricket bat version on the 80 watt.

    I shall get it on test soon. Pictures to follow.

    Cheers
    toto
     
  2. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    and here we are .....

    the iron itself is the same physical size as the 80 watt version .....


    however, the tip is a fraction under half the size coming in at about 2.5mm


    On test shortly .....

    cheers

    toto
     
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  3. Tony Hubbard

    Tony Hubbard Full Member

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    Had a chat with Tony Wright on Saturday, He suggested that my adjustable heat 48Watt Soldering iron should be replaced with a adjustable heat 80 Watt version as I was attempting 7mm kits. I`m having problems with soldering two flat pieces of brass together , after a while they just click apart. Everything is clean and using 145 degree solder with Ducans liquid flux. While I was there he gave me a lesson in soldering and watched me attempting to adhere to pieces of brass together.

    Tony.
     
  4. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Great to get some tuition. Did the demo help you any?

    What was the result? Was the soldered joint any stronger after being shown how to use the iron? Keen to know.

    Toto
     
  5. Tony Hubbard

    Tony Hubbard Full Member

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    Hello Toto, When I soldered two pieces of brass together under the watchful eye of Tony Wright the parts were very strong. I could not pull them apart. I decided to have a go at home with some scrap brass , after cleaning the pieces I soldered them together . Later on , I attempted to pull them apart and " Click " was heard and they fell apart . The two pieces were black .
    Perhaps my flux is too old , or my iron was not hot enough , or there is not enough power in the wattage of my iron .
    The last time I attempted this at home the parts were green , at least I got it to change colour!.
    I am going to see Tony again on Saturday with the offending pieces and try again with my products and his iron.

    Tony.
     
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  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Mmmmmm ..... let us know how you get on good Sir.

    Toto
     
  7. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    While I agree that an 80 watt iron will be better for 7mm kits, for practice soldering your 48 watt iron should be more than adequate. Did you have it turned up to it's highest setting? I'm not sure the age of your flux will make a big difference, mine is over 20 years old and still does the job. You need to keep the iron in contact with the work piece for as long as it takes for the solder to melt and flow into the joint, this may take a couple or three wipes with the iron to get the brass hot enough for the solder to grab hold, the flux should get hot enough to fizz and evaporate, watch those fumes, very nasty!

    Anyway, keep trying mate, it took all of us a while to get it right!

    Best of luck, Pete.

    Ps, what are you soldering on? If it is a metal plate or the like, it will act like a heat sink and draw all the heat from your iron away, I've bought a ceramic soldering plate that is designed for jewellery making, I got it off amazon if I remember correctly, not expensive but really useful!
     
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  8. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I solder on a piece of plate glass - the shelf out of an old fridge is ideal.
     
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  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I use either a glass kitchen cutting board, a lump of mdf or a piece 6mm ground steel plate (normally with a piece of card between the brass and steel plate) as my soldering mat.

    The steel is very useful for using magnets to help hold the parts in position, and a earth plate for my resistance soldering iron.

    Paul
     
  10. Tony Hubbard

    Tony Hubbard Full Member

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    I didn`t manage to meet up with Mr Wright due to being ill. I am / was using scrap brass to practice soldering , but keep getting the same results, dry joints. Very frustrating. The brass pieces are on a rubber mat .

    Tony.
     
  11. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Tony,

    Are you making sure that both pieces of brass are clean in the area of the joint?
    Can you describe what happens as you apply the solder, does it smear/spread or does it stand in lumps like bird droppings?
     
  12. Tony Hubbard

    Tony Hubbard Full Member

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    Hello Rob, The brass pieces I use are filthy so I have to clean them first , just the patch I`m going to use. The solder flows , runs along the joint and looks like it has filled the joint as solder can be seen he other side . When cool I try to pull apart , I can tell if it is going to come apart . I did exactly what Tony Wright showed me using my own equipment.
    A guy invited me around his home to teach me how to solder , three attempts it took to get two pieces to solder together successfully . He could not understand what was happening and why it took three attempts . I took the piece home and a few months later I picked it up and " click " they came apart.
    The pieces are usually black or green .
    I have a wagon that I have built , small pieces keep clicking off , the main body is ok because someone else rebuilt it for me .

    Tony.
     
  13. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Good morning Tony,

    From your description, I think that at least some of your problem, is that you are not washing the flux off effectively after you have soldered the joint.

    To clarify, depending on the type of flux that you use. If you don't neutralize it after you have soldered the joint, it keeps on working and ultimately eats away at the solder as being the softest target. The indications are the joint turning black/green and then it failing sometime later.

    Like you I found this out the hard way...

    What I have started doing recently is dunking the work piece in some cold water with a tea spoon of bicarbonate of soda (Baking Powder) in it. The Sodium Bicarbonate is alkali and neutralizes the acid in the flux. Then a scrub in warm water and cheap washing up liquid keep most gremlins at bay.
     
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  14. Tony Hubbard

    Tony Hubbard Full Member

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    Rob, Maybe you have hit the nail on the head?. Tony wright told me he never washes until the model is complete.
    A piece I soldered two weeks ago has now pulled apart , like opening a paper , the solder is clean and still on both pieces . but is soft.

    Tony.
     
  15. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Tony,

    There is only one way to find out, try another test piece ad give it a good wash afterwards.

    What sort of flux are you using out of interest?
     
  16. Tony Hubbard

    Tony Hubbard Full Member

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    Hello Rob,
    Duncans liquid fluid . I will have another try with your idea.

    Tony.
     
  17. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Tony,
    I can't say that I have heard of Duncan's flux, but being a liquid it should be easier to clean than some of the paste fluxes that some people use.
    If it's any consolation, this morning I opened the box on a wagon kit that I bought about 5 years ago which had been partially assembled. While I was looking at it one of the soldered seams cracked and came loose.
     
  18. Tony Hubbard

    Tony Hubbard Full Member

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    Rob,
    Yesterday I soldered two pieces of brass together then washed it.
    Today , with ease it pulled apart and the joint is very shiny and no sign of any discolouration.
    I`m going to buy only plastic kits , I have no problems with them.

    Tony..
     
  19. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Tony,

    On that basis I can't say that I blame you but I have to say that it's very odd. I solder things at least 5 out of 7 days and I only very rarely have joints fail.
     
  20. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    This is very strange indeed, as Rob has said, I've also built quite a few brass and nickle silver kits and cannot say I have ever had this problem?
    Is there anyway you could film what you are doing and post it or put a link to it? I'm sure between us we could come up with a fix mate.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
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