4mm Scale - DJH Highland Railway Barney and Jones Goods Loco Builds

Last night saw me tackling the loco body and despite its small size it's going together nicely.

 

Hi Keith,

Yes a good few years ago I built a DJH LNER Q7frames/spacers. I soldered them solid with a garden weed wand (long before I had a Microflame). Then I just filed the screw heads flat with the outside of the frame and I will do the same this time.

 

I am not too far off starting the Jones goods the Barney is almost as far as I can take it without more handrail knobs - I only bought short ones but I need some long ones too.

 

Although I spent most of the day yesterday being distracted by news of the Finney7 W1 I did have a further session last night which saw much of the loco complete.









Just the steps, hand rails plus quite a bit of hacking underneath to get the coupling rods to clear the footplate and it's done. Then from wiring up and testing but I think that I will get both locos to the same state before doing that bit.

 

Hi Ron,

My first 4mm loco build was the PDK D16 which I made a reasonable fist of

 

Hi Ron,

To add to the above I would certainly recommend that you build a brass kit as opposed to a whitemetal kit until you have some experience because it's much easier to correct mistakes without the attendant risk of melting parts with a brass kit.

 

Thanks Andy,

It is to be the rebuilt version as it was when first rebuilt in 1937.

 

Returning North, Yesterday I pretty much finished the construction of the Barney. It still needs hand rails and the motor fitting sadly despite much grinding away underneath which allowed the motion to move freely as soon as I added the brakes to the chassis they created more clearance problems.



I made up another vac pipe for the front.


And finally one of the quite prominent things on this particular loco are the injector(?) pipes that go into the top of the firebox either side of the whistle which were conspicuously absent from the kit.


I did my usual trick of filing up thin walled tube tube to make the unions and added them to .8mm rod to make a representation of the pipe work.

 

Over on RMweb Mark Tatlow mentioned the clack valves on the side of the boiler on the Barney and made me realise that the misshapen blob was supposed to represent them
This is the blob that I refer to:


Having had it pointed out I had to do something about it. Mark had pointed me at some castings by Alan Gibson but I figured that they couldn't be too difficult to make a pair and although a little fiddly they were fairly easy to do.











They comprise, a couple of brass track rivets, two etched washers and 0.7+0.8mm brass rod.

First I drilled through the rivets to take the .8mm rod and then with the thick end of the rivet held in a pin vice I used the Proxxon pillar drill to spot drill and then drill through one side of the narrower section. I then soldered a length of .8mm rod through the centre with a stub sticking out of the narrow end. Then I soldered a length of 0.7mm through the hole in the side threaded on the washer and soldered that.

I scraped the misshapen lumps away with a scalpel and then drilled the boiler side finally bending the 0.8mm rod to shape and using a tiny piece of 100 degree I wafted the microflame over the clack until the solder melted and it was in place.

 

Another session last night had the tender for the Jones Goods put together and a standard made for the the brake column. This is where the instructions differ from the drawing that was supplied with the kit although I suspect it was added by the customer rather than DJH as the paper looks newer than the instructions. The instructions would have you add a misshapen whitemetal column to the left hand side of the tender looking forwards, whereas the drawing has the ships wheel attached to a column at the right hand side. The instructions vaguely point to the ships wheel being somehow attached to the inside of th tender door.

A piece of tube, a couple of different sized washers and some rod made up the column.





Lastly a really cruel close up which makes it look like there is a lake of solder around the base....