7mm Scale Gladiator J6 - with working inside motion

Discussion in 'Loco Builds' started by Rob Pulham, Feb 19, 2018.

  1. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Very nice craftsmanship there Rob and I look forward to reading your progress reports with this fine loco... yes indeed you inspired me to buy a Hobby Holiday jig also.

    York Paul
     
  2. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Thanks Paul,

    If you do I would suggest that you also invest in some springs to hold the horn blocks/guides against the frames while you solder them. It is possible to do it without (I only re-discovered my springs the other night:rolleyes:) but they do make it much easier.

    For some mad reason I cut one of my springs in half many moons ago but I am going to contact Meteor to see if I can buys some replacements - I have a 5 axle jig but only 3 springs at the minute.
     
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  3. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Would it have been easier to file the horn blocks before fitting? I was just thinking it would have been less work thats all.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
  4. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Possibly Pete, but it wasn't a big job to do it in situ and I could blend it in with the frames.
     
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  5. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks for the tip Rob, I will get some for the next set, the way I soldered the tender centre axle hornblocks was inserting a same size diameter metal rod through the outer axle bearings (all previously set up and soldered square) then setting the hornblocks into place using another same diameter bar and holding them in position with a clip to tack solder. When I was satisfied everything was true I then soldered the hornguides proper to the inner tender frame, I must have been lucky as the wheelset sprung as it should when built up and the axle rotated freely. So a set of springs it will be for next time.:thumbup:
    Paul
     
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  6. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Although there hasn't been much to share, work has been progressing on the J6.

    We now have all the springs attached to the frame. Initially I though to have the centre springs removable and the for and aft ones just soldered on but in the end I drilled and tapped them all 12ba so they are all removable should the need arise.

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
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  7. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Quality crafting there Rob, I'm following your build with keen interest because for one it gave me confidence to take on one myself and for another its always nice to watch the loco emerging out of what is essentially just sheets of metal. :thumbs:
     
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  8. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Thanks Paul,

    The frames are quite thick and it took a bit of time drilling and tapping them but I think it will be worth the effort in the end should they ever need to come off.
     
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  9. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes I did notice the thickness of the frames, quite unusual from the standard (ish) etch thicknesses.
     
  10. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    After my interlude with the Streamlined Coronations I am now back on the J6.

    Over the last couple of evenings I have prepared the Finney Hornguides/blocks (nicked) borrowed from my A1 kit until I collect some more from the guys at Telford.

    Then I started on the instructions which have you prepare the outer chassis first and then attach it to the tender footplate.

    Here's where I got to on that last night.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Now ..... Just looking deeper at the last photo above there, I'd say the method for soldering has been ..... Tack every 20 mm or so then run a seam of solder between ..... Could I be correct.

    The reason I ask is that I have been playing with soldering methods in my head for when my resistance soldering iron comes on stream and that is my intention.
    Tack long pieces like frames etc every so often to get the whole piece on in the correct position / lineage then apply a very thin fillet of solder along the complete length.

    Just musing

    Toto
     
  12. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Nearly, you have the right idea but my variation is run a line of flux with a syringe, drop a small piece of solder every so often and chase along with the microflame. I had it all clipped together with 6 pairs of self locking tweezers and held by my left hand with a pair of pliers while using the flame with my right.
     
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  13. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    :scratchchin: Also sounds like a goer.
     
  14. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Further work on the tender last night got one of the more difficult bits behind me - bending the one-piece tank sides/end.


    However, I will start off with a bit of a gotcha! The instructions tell you if modelling post 1940 to drill out two etched dimples on the rear right hand side of the tender for hand rails that must have been fitted to some tenders at some point.


    Having done it I immediately started to think I wonder. Sure, enough when I looked at photos of 64206 which is the loco being modelled I noted no rear handrail....


    So, I opened out the holes to 1.55mm and soldered some stubs of rod in - this is it from the inside


    [​IMG]


    And from the outside - thankfully nothing shows


    [​IMG]


    Next the tender sides are rectangular but on the real thing on the tender that I am working on there are cut outs for a handrail as in this example by Ron Bowyer.


    [​IMG]GNR/LNER Gresley "J6" class 0-6-0 No. 64223. by Ron Bowyer, on Flickr


    I have to confess to struggling with the instructions on this point so I went my own way. There are sections of etched beading to represent this and having worked out for myself how I believe they are meant to fit I tacked them to each end


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    This allowed me to scribe a line to cut/file to and then I unsoldered them and removed the bits that needed removing. Time will tell as to whether what I have done is correct but studying various photos it looks right.


    The next job was to drill out one of two dimples for the front handrail knob - these are design for a short rail where the top is cut out as I have done or a long rail where the side is left at full height. I drilled out the lower ones.


    Then I carefully marked out where the first bend should be and then bent it using my Metalsmith Drilling table with a rod slightly smaller than the required bend clamped to it.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    If this sort of thing scares you take heart. I didn't get it right first time, I just calmly straightened it with fingers and thumbs finally using smooth bladed pliers to finish off and them remeasured and tried again. The first side (the one in the photos) I got right on the second attempt. The other side took three goes.... but I got there.


    Next up is to solder in the bulkhead.


    Where the instructions are really lacking is that they refer to parts but don't number them so you are constantly searching the scans of the etches and the index to find out which part you are looking for - the scans are labelled with part numbers and there is an index but it would be so much better if the instructions had part numbers alongside the text.


    [​IMG]


    Then lastly solder the side/end piece to the footplate.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
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  15. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Superb work as usual Rob :tophat::tophat::tophat:, now I do like the picture of that big black grubby engine... is this one you build previously ? :avatar:
     
  16. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Very nicely illustrated. Don't fancy trying to get two bends exactly in the right place. Nice little bending jig though.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  17. Toto

    Toto Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Out of curiosity .... how much was the drilling rablevwith bending bars ? They don't seem to display their prices on their site unless I'm missing something.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  18. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Not as expensive as I had in mind http://www.midrailcentre.com/drilling-table this page shows all the prices.
     
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  19. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    No but this one will be in slightly better state - the build commission does include weathering for this particular build. I have a photo to work from This is the beastie I have a bought version which is at a higher resolution than the website example.
     
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  20. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Looks like an excellent piece of kit Rob and surprisingly reasonably priced too. But being as tight as a nuns nightie I'm tempted to have a go making one :thumbup:. What could possibly go wrong? :avatar:

    Pete.
     
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