7mm Scale Gladiator J6 - with working inside motion

Discussion in 'Loco Builds' started by Rob Pulham, Feb 19, 2018.

  1. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Having sorted out the additional bolt/rivet heads on the left side of the cab I drilled out the punched version on the right side and added 3d versions to make them match the other side. I also fitted all the hand rail knobs but I will fit the rails themselves a bit nearer the finish line.

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  2. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Detail detail detail ! You can’t beat it. Very nice Rob.
     
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  3. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I am still beavering away at the J6. The boiler bands are on but despite having Tony’s build as a guide I added two 0.7mm infill pieces down the side of the smokebox as Tony had but initially made them too deep thankfully this was all done before attaching it to the smokebox so it was a simple matter to take it of and adjust it.


    I made a new mounting plate for the snifting valve which it now fixed in place and I have made a start on fitting the very prominent set of bolt/rivet heads bellow it on the photo that I am working to. – They still need a bit more work with files to make them a bit shallower and more even.


    Again, I followed Tony’s lead and started to drill out the chimney in my little lathe. Sadly I don’t have Tony’s touch because I had only got to a 4.5mm drill when I must have gone a little too deep and the spigot came away from the chimney. I attempted to make a collet from wood as suggested by Davis Smith (DLOS) but my chimney casting was ever so slightly misshapen and I couldn’t manage to get it to centre in my 3 jaw chuck (I don’t have a four jaw at present).

    I did the rest, the old-fashioned way and set to with a 2nd cut round file. In all honesty I think that it took less time to file it out than I had spent messing about trying to hold the casting to use a drill. I am just glad that I had drilled the base for the bolt heads before starting on drilling the inside or I may not have had the patience for it at that point.

    Like the chimney casting the dome comes with a cast threaded spigot I suppose the original idea being that you would screw it to the boiler top. I opted to cut the spigot away and then using some emery paper wrapped around the boiler. I rubbed away at the dome until I got a good fit before cutting a couple of slots for the boiler band with a slitting disk in my Dremel.

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    Not really much to show for all that work… as you will note it’s all just propped in place for the photo.
     
  4. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Still working on the detail from my photo of 64206 and I noted that there was a semicircle of rivets/bolt heads on the left side of the smokebox just above the handrail surrounding the bottom half of an oval patch.

    The patch is made from some very thin brass shim that I bought from china via eBay several years ago. It’s just under 0.1mm thick

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    Next up I fitted the internal window frames and the associated rivets/bolt heads on the cab front.

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    Hopefully that should be it for the boiler/smokebox and external cab details until I start fitting the castings pipe runs etc.
     
  5. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Loving the minute detailing Rob... you are on a mission with this one.:tophat::tophat::tophat::tophat:
     
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  6. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    :tophat::tophat::tophat:

    Ian vt
     
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  7. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Although I am working in the general direction of getting the footplate complete so that I can attach the cab/boiler etc. to it. I am not ding things in any particular order so when I glanced at the sketch in the instructions for the cab floor I thought I would have a go at that before fitting the splasher tops.

    The sketch only shows the rear of the cab splashers/floor and at first, I took the etched lines at the rear for fold lines. Having folded it I couldn’t get the floor to fit so I ended up straightening it out and soldering it up. Surprise, surprise, it now was too long for the cab. I surmised that I would have to cut along the half etched lines to get it to it. However after a bit of head scratching I emailed David Hill (Gladiator) to ask how he had done it on his before doing something that while not irreversible would make a good bit more work. David replied very quickly and advised that the cab floor did indeed need cutting at the half etched line because the kit has options for both the 521 536 series locos with the 521 series having a much deeper cab. A point that I had completely missed!!

    Gladiator J6 Cab floor4.JPG

    You can see the half etch lines in the shot above. What isn’t apparent is that the half etched lines in the splasher tops are approx. 3mm different from those on the floor etch. I cut at the splasher lines first but needed to cut at the floor lines to get it to fit so anyone else building one of these as a 536 series you need to ignore the lines on the splasher tops and use those on the floor etch.
    Once I had it a good fit in the cab, I added the splasher top sandbox filler plates and the fillers themselves. Curiously the splasher tops and the half etched sandbox top plates have a recess/hole for the top which I can only assume is for location purposes as the filler cap needs to be slightly proud of the splasher top. Like those on the front I cut a slice of tube and gently squashed it into an oval with pliers before soldering the top on.

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    I made up the reverser and fitted it to the cab.

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    After having a look at the reverser in the C1 I added a couple of bits of scrap etch to give a little more detail – not very clear in the shot below. Strictly speaking the lever should be on the outside of the ratchet plate not in between as shown in the instructions

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    I decided to leave it as is, as it will be lot in the gloom of the cab.

    It was probably a sign that I should have left it alone at this point but for the life of me I could only find two of the four splasher tops. I decided to cut some replacements out of 10 thou sheet on my “Mini Formit” guillotine (which I have used extensively throughout this build). Parts duly cut, the first front sandbox/splasher went on easily then it took over two hours to fit the rest and, in the end, I cut it off the cradle to make it easier to solder from the back.

    For whatever reason they sorely tested my patience. It was even more frustrating when trying to fit the ashpan sides as again one went on easily without issue to the second was a nightmare which resulted in the splasher top coming adrift several times before I had both in place to my satisfaction. On the back of that I had an evening off last night.

    But here is the state of play.

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    Still a bit of detailing to go on before I fix things together but I am getting there.
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    Looks great. All the extra detail must be very satisfying to do
     
  9. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    It certainly is, it's where I get my buzz from when building.
     
  10. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    -
     
  11. Wrenn

    Wrenn Full Member

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    Rob I am enjoying watching the build of your J6. The attention to detail is amazing, truly great craftsmanship.:tophat:
     
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  12. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    The latest bit of modelling madness is a couple of Wakefield mechanical lubricators.

    The kit provides a couple of nice but generic lubricator castings which have a lid and a hand wheel but no pipework. The lubricators fitted to 64206 are a little unusual to my eyes at least in that the pipes all come out of the bottom whereas I am more used to then coming out at the bottom of one or both sides. Now I could have followed Tony’s example and gone for some Ragstone castings but where would be the fun in that.
    Cutting out and drilling all the parts (18 each not including the pipes) was relatively easy the fun part was soldering them all together without it all collapsing in a heap.

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    Not the easiest thing in the world to photograph but after taking the earlier shots I remembered the quite prominent wingnut on the top holding the lid shut.

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    I made it from a 16 ba cheese head screw with the head squashed in a pair of pliers and then filed to shape.
     

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  13. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Yep, I think your due a visit from the men in white coats Rob ! :avatar:
    Very nice, it will be a shame to paint it.
     
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  14. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    This week has seen the lubricators fitted along with the firebox/ashpan sides. Then I fitted all the main components together and fitted it to the chassis. I needed to file a bit of the undersides at both ends to get the chassis to mate with the body. This is because I have used the narrowest frame spacer due to the need to get the loco around 5’ curves.

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    But it all fits now; I have just rested the chimney and dome on for the photo.

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    I have also fitted the splashers and cab floor and fitted a couple of short lengths of tube through the front of the cab for the hand rails. On the GA and on internal shots of the C1 cab the right side handrail has a handwheel attached to it so I have added that too.

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    Once I had the cab floor fitted I could determine the fit of the backhead. The Laurie Griffin castings although quoted as being for a J6 among other locos was a little short so I added a strip to the bottom. I suppose that makes a change from hacking bit of the sides to make them fit in cabs.

    IMG_0001.JPG
     
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  15. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    There’s detail and then there’s Rob's detail. Amazing.
     
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  16. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    :tophat::tophat::tophat: nuff said
     
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  17. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Thanks Gents,

    The guy that I am building it for has been waiting patiently while I moved house, so the least I can do is make it worth waiting for.
     
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  18. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    Some of the earlier 0-6-0's such as the j3 had lower pitched boilers. I wonder if that accounts for it being a bit short.
     
  19. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Paul,

    Sorry having read it again I wasn't clear on where I filed. It was the footplate to the rear of, and under the smokebox and the same where it sits under the cab floor. The frames fit through the footplate by about 4mm. Had I used the spacers marked P4 which are the widest I wouldn't have needed to do it. The inside motion would have a bit more space too but need must to get it around tight curves.
     
  20. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Although it hasn’t been without its trials, I have made good progress this week and the bodywork is almost complete.

    The left side handrail caused a few problems because the etched hole in the cab front, to which I had soldered the tube for the handrail proved to be slightly out of position. I am not sure whether it was a vagary of the hand drawn art work which I have then exacerbated as I have opened the hole with a broach or that my positioning of the boiler was slightly low.

    To make it all line up I had to remove the stub of tube, fill the hole with brass rod and file flush then redrilling the hole slightly lower.
    I also drilled the rims of the buffer stocks and inserted some scale hardware fittings the collar of the buffer stocks is quite small so it was a bit nerve wracking drilling with a 0.4mm drill bit, but it came out okay.

    All the boiler fittings are soldered in place with the exception of the smokebox door which it just resting in place for the photos.
    The front steps come with an interesting fold up support which makes them fairly rigid but before I had finished fitting the front one’s, I had managed to bend the rear ones so I soldered some 2x1mm bar behind them to give some strength.

    The only things left to fit, are a pair of globe lubricators that sit on the front of the sandboxes either side of the smokebox. The reason that I haven’t fitted them yet is that I have lost them. I bought them at the same time as the backhead and some additional valve rods so I know that they are here somewhere but can I find them….

    Of course, the moment I order some more to replace them they will pop out from where they are hiding so I am holding off for the minute.

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