A 3D printing virgin

Paul,

My first print was a set of W iron's 1mm thick, they felt a bit flimsy, so I ran a second print having increased the thickness to 1.5mm. These seem much sturdier but the proof is in the ....., they need using on a wagon and trying out. How much weaker or stronger the the plastic used by say Peco is resin. I get the impression it's more brittle.

Andy,

Paul recommended the same, I will follow the advice of you both.

 

Paul/Andy

I had a second go at the brake gear using your suggestions, beef the parts up a bit and cut them away from the supports before curing them. Needless to say it worked excellently. I forgot to beef up the brake v and pin rack so they are still to do. I wish my close up photography was as good as my bird (feathered before you say anything Paul), sadly it isn't and black is a horrible colour.

Should have said left pair are for the classic NER opposite side opposite wheel configuration, the righthand one is the more normal both brakes on one side

Thanks Gents.

 

All you say is too true Paul, but given you are my guiding spirit are you Darth Vader or the Dark Lord?

 

Well I have found the right slice setting for wagon bodies - .03, the print graining has almost completely disappeared.
It was printed with the X and Y axis set to 30 total run time 8 hours+.

Sadly there was a catastrophic failure half way though the print run resulting in a crack across about 1/2 the body, probable cause me accidentally knocking the table. Oops!
I am going to retry the run with 40-40 settings but retaining the .03 layer height tomorrow.

For small parts brakes, w irons etc I am happy with a .05 layer height printed flat, though I might go down to .04 layering.
A daft question, assuming I stay with Anycubic basic resin, would I need to go through a similar process when I switch to grey resin?
I appreciate if I move to different resins say the plant based one, then a new series of tests would be necessary.

After tea I am going to try crack the brake lever, but like Paul with his Highland wagon, I could be bashing a brick wall.

 

While I have been trialling various slice options for the D1 bolster with the inevitable 6-8 hour waits to see the results I have been working on models for the D4 twin bolster.
I think I have finally got things in place and this is what the two wagons look like:



Feeling brave I am going to tackle the V1/2 outside framed brake next, hopefully some of the tricks Paul, Andy and Rob have pointed out will easy my way through it.

 

Paul,

Thanks for the tip, I will have a fiddle. I printed the RERF file as suggested by Andy, it basically printed fine, then I opened it in Photon Workshop to see the print parameters, the only difference from those in Chutibox was the exposure time was set to .8, in Chutibox it was 2 sec's, so I have updated ir and will do another test print of some of the components, probably tomorrow as we Sunday Teatimes we have one of the grandkids rattling about till about 7.

 

Hi Paul,

I read your suggestion and thought lets see what the effect is so I went back into the drawing and instead of a normal body I have a "mesh" body, also all the sketches have disappear, wtf is going on, any ideas?

 

Hi Rob

It looks like you were right everything is back to normal this morning.

Mossy

 

Hi Andy,

theres nothing in the "manual" such that it is to explain what to do with or interpret the results.