A 3D printing virgin

Moring Andy,

I did what you suggested and printed the R_E_R_F.pwmo file washed and cured them and then referred back to the manual.
What you have on page 51 of the Mono SE manual, is covered on pages 46-47 of the Mono manual

Now the very silly bit, where both manuals number the 4 models 1 - 8, all 8 modules printed were numbered 5. What a really helpful print.
I also had had a furtle around the anycubic website to see if there was a downloadable example, but nope none to be had.

Do you have any helpful suggestions?

Mossy

 

I think I have become obsessed with Fusion 360, I think it's the instant gratification of seeing a model emerge on the screen. Even thought I haven't yet got an acceptable print of the D1 bolster, I spent a few hours yesterday starting to model a V1/2 Brake van. It's design so the doors slide in channels which means it can be posed with the doors in any open, semi open of closed positions. The mirror and combine function really save a shed load of work and this is where I have got to:



I have started thinking about the roof and clerestory, but I have a question for the CAD experts. There are 2 very distinct roof profiles of this van as in:



I have figured out a crude way of creating the ribs running across the roof as in the righthand diagram, rectangular ribs extruded through the roof, which can the be cut above and below to the roof profile, but would like others ideas of how to do them. Also how do I create the curved rain guard in the lefthand diagram?

Finally does anyone know what the interior looked like? I know there was a raised platform at the clerestory end, and side benches behind which the doors slid, but any further info would be really good. I mocked up this last night, pure fantasy with no historical support. Brake standard to go on the raised platform, pot bellied stove roughly centrally positioned on the floor.



Keep well and safe everyone.

Mossy

 

Episode 4 A new Hope.

A new day and optimistic. A nice bottle of grey resin was delivered yesterday, so at least I will be able t0 see any cock ups.

Chutibox reset to use Pauls recommended cure time of 3 secs.

So I have set up 2 tests, a quickie - the swing plate from my D1 Bolster, 30 min print run and a wagon body tilted 30-30, the Mono can't cope with 45-45.

The swing plate has printed and been washed (photo to come after curing it) it's already clear I can see far less print graining that with the black resin. Resin characteristic, cure time or the translucency of the resin?

Full of enthusiasm I have fired up the print of wagon that's an almost 6 hour print so due to give birth around 4:30 this afternoon.

All my finger and toes are crossed.

 

A bit late for the wagon body but I will tweak the cure setting and print something small later to see what the effects are.

The wagon bolster washed, cured and tidied up looks 100%'s better than the scraggy black ones, or perhaps it's just I can see the details.

 

Fascinating video, I didn't appreciate the relationship were so critical. Given the conclusions what it effectively means is I cant print any complete wagons over 8ft long at 45-45, I haven't thought through the maximum height but its pretty low given a nominal 1 plank high wagon with chassis doesn't fit.. Which goes back to my jealousy comment I made on your highland wagon thread and means bite the bullet and get a mono x.

So I have set up a test using a door with planking, 3 doors 1 angled 45 on the x axis, one angled 45 on the y axis and finally 1 at 45 both x and y. Its about a 3 hour run so won't be done till pretty late tonight. The wagon body has about 4 hours to go, so this can be started around 7ish tonight.

 

Well the wagon body is done. my chronological addition was awful. Head and shoulders better that any of the previous prints.
Print graining almost non-existent. There are a couple of blemishes but both of those are in areas where there wasn't any supports, another learning point - over support rather than under support.

Just waiting for it to dry before curing it and then a photo.

Technical question for Paul or Andy. Chutibox clearly shows when a model exceeds the size of the build plate, but I cant see any indication of when the maximum height is exceeded. Am I missing something.

And another one for Paul, when you did your planking was the cut .2 x .1 or .2 x .2? Mine are .2 x .1 and quite indistinct.

 

Paul

I did the same thing as you and it didn't highlight the out of build area - I obviously did something wrong as this morning I re-tried and yes it did highlight the out of build, obviously a brain fart on my behalf. And yes I have more room to play with than I thought so 45-45 will be possible with most things.

I did my planking .1mm x .1mm on each edge of the planks and although they are there it isn't great, I am going to redo them using your .2mm x .2mm logic.

My 3 door experiment produced interesting results. Yes the 45 x 45 is the best, but on small pieces like these, there is very little difference between that and the X x 45 or the Y x 45 prints they can only be seen under strong light and a 5 times magnification, once off the supports and in normal conditions you can't tell them apart.

As always your help is greatly appreciated.

 

Hi Andy,

I guess the screen protector does what is says on the till, a thin clear film that sits over the screen.

Where have you ordered one from?

Mossy

 

Hi all,

Has anyone got a 7mm drawing of a Brake Standard to fit in my NER V1/2 brake (don't think the company would matter much as it will be barely seen).
I also need a drawing of a nice potbellied stove for the same beast.

Ta

Mossy

Also just placed an order for the screen protectors - that seems a very sensible idea, both my Canon 7d2 cameras have one fitted.

 

Rob,

Yes please all three .stl's would be absolutely great.

Mossy