A 3D printing virgin

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Mossy, Aug 8, 2021.

  1. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Well I have finally got hospital corners on the bottom corner of a 45 x 45 degree print.

    These bolster wagons had metal reinforcements on each corner and previously I have avoided putting any supports on them because of the difficulty of clean them up after printing. I bit the bullet and using the D1 as a test removed the reinforcement plate, place 4 heavy and 1 medium supports on the underside of the corner and 4 medium supports on each side where the plate had been. I then redrew the plate as a separate body and printed both. RESULT! :hammer:

    Now I have to repeat this logic for the lefthand and righthand bodies of the twin D4 wagons.

    I think in future I will simply draw any corner reinforcements as separate bodies and glue them on later.
    Another lesson learned at the cost of almost a litre of resin.

    It just needs curing and I can then finally assemble a complete wagon. Isn;t progress sweet.

    Mossy
     
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  2. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul,

    I would welcome your advice.

    The attached are screen shot of a brake van I have modelled.
    All the components sides, end, cabin ends etc are separate and haven't been combined together.

    The whole thing is to big for my build plate, so I assume it would be better to print the roofs as a single print run.

    After that the body marginally fits on the build plate but I cant get a full 45 x 45 tilt so it needs breaking down. My thoughts were a side, end and cabin end as one print and what is left as another, but how do you think I should tackle it?

    Mossy

    2021-09-14 (1).png 2021-09-14.png
     
  3. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Hi Guys

    How do you put a thread on the end of a rod? As usual I cant find the right command, so it's bound to be under my nose. :facepalm:

    Mossy
     
  4. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    "Thread" is under the create menu after you have finished your sketch of the part you want to thread, select create\thread
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2021
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  5. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    I told you it would be under my nose, now why didn't I find it?????

    Thanks Rob
     
  6. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Eh? Thread as in what a nut bolts to? Or some other thing in Fusion I have not yet encountered?

    Either sounds interesting?:scratchchin:
     
  7. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Mosey,

    I’ve found you don’t have to put angles on some models. They will print square, angling just helps with any boxes so they don’t vacuum the resin. Walls I tend to do square on and a friend of mine who’s just been doing the clock tower of Nottingham Victoria has also done the model square.

    however, tilting does mean you can sometimes fit something in that may be larger than your build plate.
    I’d do the sides square on as a box but with no floor. As it’s stood away from
    The bed plate by scaffold it reduces the pumping action. Then print the roof and floor as separate items and angle those to reduce pull on the FEP.
    Andy
     
  8. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Andy

    The thread request was for the hand brake actuating rod. It doesn't show up in this pic, so perhaps I need to make the thread Corser.

    2021-09-14 (2).png



    Sorry can you explain "The bed plate by scaffold it reduces the pumping action." a little more.

    Mossy
     
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  9. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Take a glass..
    Place it in a sink of water..

    what physics happens? If you tilt the glass it fills. If you keep the open end in the water it pumps and compresses the air in the glass (if any)

    same happens with the resin when printing a box, you seal in the liquid and it pushes in and out against the FEP.

    however, If you have an open box, ie a circle or just 4 walls, you can stand it off the bed plate by the scaffold. This gives an area for air to release

    Does that make sense? If not I’ll try and get some snaps
     
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  10. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Andy,

    I will give it a blast tomorrow morning before being called on duty for "granny daycare".

    Granny loves it, but little Beatrice insists on being attached to Granddad by the hips so any fiddling about with trains is a complete no no.

    Whinge over, I actually love it.

    Mossy
     
  11. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Ha, I’ve just had 14 days off work.. each school day I’ve been taxi for the two big kids and last two days I’ve been daddy daycare for the 9month whilst the wife was at work. Thank goodness for grandparents to share the days with
     
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  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Angling also spreads the peel forces along the build plate as only a fraction of the print is being printed at a time rather than the whole surface.

    Ref the brake wagon.

    Can you print it with a 45 tilt in one direction ? If so that may be enough.

    Rather anoyingly, I'm getting great prints from the Photon, so apart from the cure times, which to be honest look reasonably close on both printers, the only difference left is the lift speeds.

    Photon
    upload_2021-9-14_23-12-14.png

    Mono X
    upload_2021-9-14_23-13-4.png

    Looks like I will need to try and slow the lift speeds to the same as the photon, this will ease the peeling force, but will have a significant effect on overall print time.

    Mossy, it may be worth a try using the Photon lift settings for the Mono (note not the Exposure settings only the lift settings).

    Paul
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    I carried out an interesting experiment today before being summonsed to granny day care duty:

    2 prints of the Bouch chassis, a) using Andy Sollis's method, a vertical print with the chassis upside down so all the supports were on the bottom of the chassis, also using the default mono lift speeds and b) a 45 degree tilt using the Photon lift speeds as suggested by Paul (I know he would have gone 45 x 45 but the reduced lift time would add 50%-60% to the print time). Right way up with the supports on the top surface of the chassis.

    One is immaculate the other a cosmetic second (the inside edges of the lower solebar didn't print correctly but wouldn't be seen when assembled). Which is which, Andy's won hands down. How does one interpret the results, I don't know.

    Since I still hadn't been required I set off an Andy style print of the body having lifted out the cabin floor (again his suggestion). Been back from day care an hour and had a chance to quickly look at it, again it's immaculate except for where I forgot to support the structure above the ends and veranda's. Another painful lesson learned, less haste more speed or in this case success.

    So it looks like with Anycubic basic grey resin vertical prints with default settings will become the main stay of printing with of course exceptions.

    Mossy
     
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  14. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Let’s have some photos!! We may be able to make some further suggestion :thumbup:
     
  15. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Andy,

    I will try. Give me a bird at 50 yards and I can get an immaculate pic, give me a wagon at 2ft - crap with a capital K.

    It will have to be tomorrow morning as its dance night, yeah I suffer ballroom (not to bad) and Latin(%^&$£*) dance lessons on Wednesday night curtesy of swmbo.

    Mossy
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2021
  16. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    As promised photos:

    A cosmetic failure. You can see the imperfect printing on the far sole bar. This is on the inside of the lowest sole bar on a 45 degree print:

    IMG_0925.jpg

    The Andy Sollis Way. Just about immaculate.

    IMG_0927 (2).jpg

    Cabin Failures. Exclusively my fault - support, support, support!
    IMG_0929 (2).jpg IMG_0930 (2).jpg
     
  17. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Very nice!!

    We have all had the “support” learning curve. But you have nice results. Well done. Great design work to.

    Andy
     
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  18. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    First time the chassis and body have been unified and blow me they fit together like a glove.

    2021-09-17.png

    We are out today so I have set the print off and running. According to Chutibox a 1hr 59 mins print run, according to the Mono 4hr 39 mins - a big discrepancy.

    Fingers crossed.

    Mossy
     
  19. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Most impressive:thumbup:
     
  20. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Mossy great work.

    On the 45 degree chassis, that print fail was also lack of supports, if you put an additional row of light supports with only 0.2mm of penetration, they will break off without any signs of damage, but will support the edge, whereas the heavier supports will nail the print in place.

    Same applies for the roof arches a fan of light supports to assiste the heay supports.

    Paul
     
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