A GWR fictitious terminus diorama layout.

Discussion in 'Members Personal Layouts' started by Rosspop, Oct 4, 2020.

  1. Rosspop

    Rosspop Full Member

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    I`ve been working on this O Gauge project for the past three or so years.

    I sped things along by using and modifying various building kits available in 7mm and then a minimum of scratch built additions.

    The track is made from C&L products and has no isolated power sections as I use DCC sound control .
    The pointwork is traditional DC set up and the point motors are Lemaco or Fulgorex.

    The layout is built in enclosed units each with integral LED lighting.

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    all units being bolted together with coach bolts.

    The track work was laid , wired and tested three years ago

    So this year, so far, has seen the trackwork primed and airbrushed................

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    and the central platform blocked in with polystyrene and the scenics at the back finished off with lightweight filler.

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    The crossing gates are from Springside Models and I used products from S&D Models for the rest.
    They did work using Servo motors but these proved very erratic, affected by my pointwork switches, so the servos have gone and I will be making a hand operated mechanism.

    I`ve been experimenting with Acrylic paints to give the effect of distance and perspective as the units are only two feet wide.

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    Then a spell of positioning the station buildings etc.

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  2. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Loverly track-work Rosspop, looks very similar to the Marcway track I use.
    I like the board design as well, it looks like a 500mm high “window” into the layout? Do find that a challenge leaning into the layout to work on scenery?
    What locos do you have / will you have, on your roster/

    Kim
     
  3. Rosspop

    Rosspop Full Member

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    Thanks Kim,
    I made the layout units lightweight as I have a long standing back problem, so lifting them is easy. However leaning in to them to do the detailing work has proved awkward ( recent flare up of sciatica).

    I will have two time slots for loco`s.

    1930`s roster.

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    late 1940`s


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    Cheers

    JOhn
     
  4. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Loverly line up John :thumbs:
    Dukedog my favourite on your list (who’s kit was this one made from?)
     
  5. Rosspop

    Rosspop Full Member

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    T`was a Javelin kit off Ebay made in 2011.

     
  6. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Very smooth running John, I’ve just found your build blog, very nice. I hope I’m luck enough to find one to build in the future.

    A question for you, do you recommend fitting suspension to every axle including the drive axle?
    On my Q1 build I did but I’m not sure if it’s “correct “ for the 8F build, the etched have cut out marks on all axle positions but there’s no reference to suspension in the DJH instructions.

    Kim
     
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  7. Rosspop

    Rosspop Full Member

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    A question for you, do you recommend fitting suspension to every axle including the drive axle?
    On my Q1 build I did but I’m not sure if it’s “correct “ for the 8F build, the etched have cut out marks on all axle positions but there’s no reference to suspension in the DJH instructions.

    Kim[/QUOTE]

    I spent 30 years modelling in 4mm P4 so loco suspension is ingrained. In O gauge fitting compensation is relatively easy and I would rather have it than not as it maintains good electrical contact with the track at all times especially on small locos. It also prevents locos `rocking about` on uneven track. These days in DCC ,at least, some modellers use `stay alive capacitors` to improve performance.

    They all have Slaters plunger pickups on all drivers.

    However, I`ve built a large heavy 4-6-2 A4 with a rigid chassis and she runs smooth as a nut.......

     
  8. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    Wonderful. I really need a 45XX, have to start saving.
     
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  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi John

    Lovely build.

    What was the issue with the servo's on the level crossing ?

    Paul
     
  10. Rosspop

    Rosspop Full Member

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    Thanks Paul,

    The issue was they would spring into violent action at the throw of a completely different switch on my control box, usually a switch that controlled a turnout motor at the furthest point away. And then I would have to recalibrate the offending servo. One of the servos had also developed an annoying buzz in one direction of travel.

    Cheers
    john
     
  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi John

    Your issue may due to momentary voltage drops / spikes caused by the other switches changing state.

    I've used both arduino's and MERG Servo 4's, the arduino was a home built unit, that on startup could send the servo hard over to either extreme - not good. The issue appears to be the servo getting powered on before the servo output voltage was set. I did modify the circuit by adding a 5V Mosfet to act as power on feature not triggered until the arduino had fully booted and the outputs sets to the required setting.

    The Merg Servo 4 units didn't have this issue at all, but would suggest getting the setup box, as manually doing it can be a bit of a pain. - note to self still need to order one :whatever:.
    The MERG Servo 4 can operate upto 4 servo's, and uses 4 seperate inputs (1 per servo), these can be switches on the panel, or in my case I used a the outputs from a homemade Arduino DCC accessory decoder as the inputs to the Servo 4.
    The servo 4 requires a 12V DC or 9V AC supply, and two 5V voltage regulators, 1 for the control circuit, and a more powerful one for the servo outputs, this helps prevent noise from the servo's effecting the PIC controller chip.

    Oh just a wee warning if you have not come accross MERG items before they are supplied in kit form currently costing £5.98.

    Paul
     
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  12. Rosspop

    Rosspop Full Member

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    Thanks for the info Paul,

    My problems were two fold. 1. I spent ages modifying the Springside (heavy whitemetal but rather nice) into robust working gates and then 2. twice experiencing the servo being sent hard over to either extreme as you describe and breaking the gate hinge.

    The servos are gone.

    I have found a very ingenious and simple to make hand operated mechanism in a 1970`s magazine that I shall be building in the near future.

    As for servos Paul. Well I have a Dapol O gauge motorized Home Signal to fit....... will this give the same problems ????

    JOhn
     
  13. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Just a quick point concerning MERG kits, you do need to be a MERG member to buy any of the kits.
    Keith.
     
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  14. Rosspop

    Rosspop Full Member

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    Never mind Servos what about this thread..................

     
  15. Ron

    Ron Full Member

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    Sounds like a love sick Bull!!
     
  16. Rosspop

    Rosspop Full Member

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    Bullocks. :tophat:
     
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  17. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Love sick Bullocks ?? :scratchchin::avatar::avatar:

    Fantastic bit of engineering ! :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  18. Rosspop

    Rosspop Full Member

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    The time for ballasting is getting nearer, but I don`t want to just bung a load of O Gauge style fish tank gravel or cat litter down.
    So I have been experimenting with a combination mix of various UK beach sands and Woodland Scenics chopped nuts !!

    I recently found a thread on either another website or on Yutube where a modeller had researched the actual size and grades of railway ballast, albeit modern ballast, and Woodland Scenics scale graded products came out very accurate indeed.

    Also, bearing in mind, that many British (GWR) branchlines used fine ash for ballasting station confines.

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    I`ve settled on using medium grade ballast (4mm scale) plus a mixture of sand with a increasing amounts of fine grade(2mm scale) for the sidings. I shall over spray with IPA before using the usual mix of PVA and water with a drop of washing up liquid . ( Chris Nevard method)

    But first I`ve got to finish building a GWR water tower......
     
  19. Rosspop

    Rosspop Full Member

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    As for the water tower, this was hastily inspired by the wasting of £40 on a very poor resin casting .

    Initially I considered cutting it up and using the corrugated roof but in reality this was really too badly cast.

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    and the main tank was no better even after attacking with a slitting disc...............................

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    so, using the various plastic sections supplied it was out with the drawing board and riveter........................


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    and hey presto a scratch built rendition of Ashburton water tank.

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  20. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Great looking ballast and a nice blend of colour. :thumbs: Excellent job on the tank. :tophat::thumbs:

    Can you show a pic of the 'riverter' and how you go about using it ??

    Cheers, Gary.
     

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