A scottish Signal box

Due to the pending delivery of more resin, I have moved on to some of the smaller items.

I chose to rejig some of the printing files and opted to print the lever frame and the block shelf on their own. 7 hrs later and here we are…
First off the lever frame..



Oops. The lower half of the levers were only half a mm in thickness. Now been made the same as the top half, so Version 2 should be better… that said, the frame inself is very sturdy and better than expected!

Moving on to the block shelf..

managed to knock one of the phones off, since dropped and lost… blow..
One of the tyres blocks has distorted, but otherwise happy. The leg supports for the block shelf have also been made a 1/4 mm thicker just to give a little strength. There has also been a hidden internal alteration to help with the top heavy front causing it to tip towards the frame…. Not a problem if your sticking it down.

 

I’ll finish off with a few photos of it fitted
In the reject box..




I’ve also had a trial at wire in the handrails. Few mods here to as the planks are wrong and I managed tk break one of the uprights just where the hole was for the wire..

 

.3mm florist wire. So stiff but flexible.

this is only the trial run parts

 

A little repetition here as I had to reprint that frame and block shelf.

The lower levers were beefed up to prevent the distortion, so that’s all now good, but after making the support legs for the block shelf thicker, I broke the replacement when coming off the supports.. I did intent to repair it, but the broken section pinged of in to the land of never to be seen again from the end of the tweezers and that was the end of that!

 

well, it’s like any plastic, they have their limit. You can get other resins that are more flexible, but I think they may lack a little in details? I could be wrong.

obviously when it’s first printed it’s actually quite flexible, but still breakable, and isn’t fully hardened until it’s been UV cured. Not sure if you can over cure?

 

Next out the blocks are the name board and the porch.

there should have been the the doors and the toilet block, but for some reason they failed mid print..

 

Yesterday i drew up the last part of the artwork - which was the guttering and down pipes..
2 1/2 hrs later and we’re ready to print..


ok, so they have been printed…


Down side is the toilet block has lost its brick face defintiion being square on?? Some has come up after IPa washing, but unlike when done vertical, it’s looking like it’s been squashed. May have to try again..

 

Very happy with the porch.. nothing much more to say other than… here are some pictures of it coming off the scaffold and with the model

 

And the final part comes off the printer..

Still needs clean up as it’s only just come out the washer, but I now have the roof done.

sadly again I had an issue and a new one on me where the base supports on the bed place split in two.. some was still left stuck to the bed when all else was removed so no idea why?

on to the photos..

ladies and gents or how ever you may wish to be identified today… Kilmacolm signal box.


At this time, I’m yet to fit the railings, guttering and doors (and name board!)

base, upper structure and maybe this roof will have to be printed again before I’m happy to dispatch a model for painting to its new owner.
Andy

 

I’ve decided using the reject parts to make a diorama. I’ll probably reprint the missing parts for my model after I’ve reprinted the reject parts for Peter..

Here I’ve started the base, recessing in to the ground. (This will explain in earlier photos that the steps stopped in mid air.)

there is a lower cut out at the front where the point rods and signal wires would run out and would be covered by wooden boards.

 

According to the program for slicing, it estimates the amount used in volume and £.

the main building is the heaviest part and around £6. (compared to going to a company printing firm, where you would probably want £70 for that part alone.) hence it makes printing at home that little bit more interesting, if not frustrating.

 

Given the polystyrene base a quick cover of plaster this evening and then a coat of some
brown soil..
Will leave to dry overnight. (I was hoping the paint going on before the plaster had totally cured would help it sink in more.)

Wrapped the base of the building in clean film/saran wrap? (As known outside the UK) so the plaster didn’t stick to the building helping me remove it.

I have also given the base a quick coat of grey and the upper a bit of white, but have now run out of paint!




Apart from the stairs, these are the reject parts. So it’s becoming a sample model.. I’m going to try some hot water treatment on the roof as it’s distorted again!

 

In readiness for Print no2 for Peter, I’ve done a rehash on the roof tiles pushing them out by .1mm either side to give a bigger gap between the tiles.
From the front

from the back side

and the other side..

doing this work and then nipping to the shop for some either bits convinced me to get some paints for the brick.
the colour I chose for the darker brick had to have a drop of black in it on the end.

Both were dry brushed on to the grey primer. I may give it a second coat later

 

A photo with the stairs back in place…


And two renders of the inside.

 

Today focused on the one bit of detail we had forgot about.. the fire place.
Peter had spotted it was a bit small. So after supplying some sizes and what he wanted it was back to the model to make some editing..

beginning with the sizes, I was no where near.. I was only 8 3/4 inches wide by 15 inch high.

we spaced this out to 16 inch wide x 22 inch high.

Peter also supplied a photo of what he wanted..
And we set to editing the bricks. This meant widening the front and reducing the sides of the blocks (taken I think from the photo of one of the other Scottish boxes close by) so bricks moved outward. Added some new above the Lintle stone, and here we go. bricks edited and showing the size we need in blue giving us a guidance of where we are moving back to..

brick work done, now for the fire detail.


with some magical jiggery pockery I’ve done best as I can in 7mm to draw up something similar. I’ve put a small hole right at the back against the rear wall so a bulb or LED can be inserted to make a flickering fire.. as the full flue is there, we could fit a smoke generator! now that could be fun! But I doubt we will..

 

Someone else can model that!