A very simple LED question

You will need a resistor for each LED Paul, as stated connected in line (series) with the centre connection of the three wires on the LED. All 4 of your LED centre connections will be 'commoned' via resistors together to the Blue output wire of the Decoder. When you've ascertained which is the White wire for the forward end LED's, connect the 2 to the White output wire of the decoder, together with your choice of which Red rear LED connection.
Then conversely at the rear end, the 2 White LED connections and your choice of which Red LED connection at the front go to the Yellow decoder output wire. A 1k (1000 ohm) resistor gives what is probably a bit too bright illumination but that's an individual choice, you might try a 2k (or 2x1k in series so you'll need 8 in total). If you are unsure about connecting a decoder, it's safer (and cheaper) to wire in a basic non-sound decoder first as a trial, better to knacker a cheapo £10 LaisDCC one than a £100 ESU or Zimo.
Unfortunately I have no idea how to draw a diagram on a computer (I use an iMac anyway), hopefully someone will come along and help out.
Best to use a 1.5 volt battery (AA or similar) to test the LED connections, no more than 3 volts though otherwise you'll knacker it. Keith.

 

The decoder will send a DC signal back to the motor and LED’s, so you have no need to worry about DCC as such.

I know you asked me a while back and never came back to you.
How do you want it to work?
Headlights on and tail at other
Do you want an option for reds on at both ends? (When parked up)

DCC decoders have a number of options on functions, so will vary.
8 pin plugs can often have 9 wires (one is loose as goes to lights.

Red and Black go to track (pickup)
Orange and grey go the other way (motor)
Green, yellow, white and blue are for lights and purple will be the ninth wire. (I need to look which is the return wire for lights - I think it’s blue off the top of my head)


What I’m concerned about is that blue is the common.. I can’t remember which way round the power goes and will have to test one. Normally we would put the commons together, but with the LED you have it may cause issues as the pos and neg are reversed as such.

 

If you need more amps than the LaisDCC decoders can handle, then 'Rails' have recently started supplying their 'own-brand' decoders (rebranded from DCC Supplies I believe), and one of these can handle up to 3 amps, not as cheap as the Lais ones but probably a good alternative. Even if you are going for sound, it's advisable to try a non-sound decoder first rather than risk damaging an expensive sound decoder, then if all is well, just swap it over. It's handy having a 'spare' anyway just for testing purposes, but I'd advise 'running-in' the motor/gearbox for half an hour in each direction on DC anyway to bed things in, then do a stall test for maximum current check before fitting a decoder.
Keith.

 

Hi Paul.
The Yarmouth supplier is my 'supplier of choice' too, The 8 pin Lais is ok for up to 1 amp motor current and i think short term about 2, slightly less if lighting is in use, so ok at least for setting up prior to sound fitting for most lighter current applications. Just ordered one myself for testing the '02' on DCC as when I ordered the 21 pin for the Terrier, he was out of stock of the 8 pin ones, supply from China must be getting tight I guess. Let us know how you get on with it.
Keith.

 

Forgot to mention, if you go online to laisdcc.com you'll find a 19 page manual which will answer more or less all you ever want to know about laisdcc decoders.
Keith.

 

Of course, when it comes to the sound chip, you may need a harness.. as the pins “male and female” are the opposite to an 8 pin one. The 21 pin will obviously carry more functions, so not only could you change the head and tail
Lights, you could probably have a cab light or interior lights too.

 

Lais 21 pin are 6 function if I remember rightly Andy. They've gone up in price slightly (hasn't everything?) but still best value as far as I'm concerned.
Keith.