ACE LNER C12 4-4-2T Build

basic chassis assembly except I’ve added one set of hornblocks from Slaters

motor has an etch the needs bending up, soldering in a set of bearings, a quick test using a drill shows all is smooth running.

next add the two valences to the underside of the footplate. RSU made short work of this with minimum cleanup required.

rear coal bunker then required bending. No half etch or markings supplied here so using a thin metal bar in the vice, the two side were bent 90 degrees. Re peat process for the top of the bunker.

next a small triangle of scrap etch was again curved on the bar to fill in the gap

tacked in, checked , and then flooded with solder both sides. Filed using rat tail files due to all the angles inside and out.

repeat process on the other corner and dry fit to the footplate. Brass buffers also added and the two fixing nuts have also been soldered to the upper side of the footplate.

so far, so good. The “instructions” are very poor, assembly photos ....

but on a positive note, at least this kit has only a few white metal detailing parts and the boiler, firebox are already formed and look to be a good fit. The side tanks also have half etch section for the tight bends that need to be added, but that will be in the next instalment...

Kim

 

As you probably know Paul, the etches are from McGowan models and look good, much nicer than the Q1.

 

‘yes, I read a few comments about the V1/3 and other outside valve gear models, hence my choice from the list Toto offered, I didn’t want another shelf Queen.

 

Cheers Toto.

 

A little bit of progress today.

Smoke box assembled

coal guards fitted to windows in the rear of cab, plus the overhead locker / toolbox.

Kim

 

Cheers Paul. Yes your correct, it’s amazing how some detailing jobs take so long to complete.

 

More progress.....


Side tanks fitted with inner upper plates bent to shape, this gives a reference point for the front and rear spectacle plates, but these in turn require the roof to be bent up and tack soldered in place as Tver thing is very “twisty” at this stage.

now I can’t solder the roof up properly as the cab interior needs detailing (not a lot in the kit to detail it with but I’m sure I can fettle something to fill the void

but now that the front of the cab is secured I can fit the boiler......but photos show boiler bands.....instructions say add boiler bands after built using tape
Not liking that suggestion so a rummage in my scrap turned up some etch pieces that I could form into bands.

soldered up they don’t look to bad to my eyes. Boiler soldered into position and the white metal parts just placed loose for the photos

.....cab interior and backhead need making now............

 

Was that an old model from Jim, as on his web site I can’t see a c12?

 

Lots more progress today.

made a start on the cab interior, so unsoldered the roof and took the flat etched backhead supplied and bulked it out with some scrap etch as Rob has done on his build. This need to be done (A) because a flat etch looked stupid and (B) it gives clearance to the gears on the motor.
just love the instructions....”after fitting the back head, fill in the holes with scrap etch”
I’ll wait until the chassis is adjusted and clearance has been checked around the drive wheels.....I might just use expanding foam.
I’ve also added some detailing from the scrap box to the back head as other than a flat etch for the fire box opening and one white metal regulator it looked a bit sparse, don’t look to hard as it’s only a representation of some “fittings and pipes”.

back to the chassis now, a bit of careful fettling and the two main components fit together, a trial fit of the front bogies shows there’s going to be some major surgery to allow the bogie to move

motor in place, I’ve added my version of a retaining “spring” for the motor to push against when moving backwards, plus I’ll add a wire across the top of the motor to limit forward movement.

rear trailing bogie “floats” in a brass sleeve with no bearings....nice idea but on a bench test the tube can slide out on the slot, so I’ve added two small pieces of wire soldered to the tube at 90 degrees to limit side travel. I’ve also added a piece of wire off the rear brakes to act as a sprung pivot point...works a treat, rocks in all sprung positions with plenty of limited side play so tight curves should not be an issue.

wheels next....as seams to be the norm now with slaters wheels, they come pre rusted . So a quick degreasing and a clean up, then in to the gun blue to be blackened.

and finally just to see what she might look like, a quick pose.

 

Hi Rob, yes I had a look at the etch from Laurie Griffin, but as you say, it will be difficult to see it when the roof goes on ...plus £38 plus WA postage plus 10 plus weeks to get here...... I’ve had a bash at my own version, which I’m sure will up set the purists out there but looks a lot better than what was supplied in the kit and cost me nothing but time