Airfix 14xx 0-4-2t loco

Discussion in 'DCC Control' started by Andy_Sollis, Apr 15, 2022.

  1. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

    Messages:
    1,102
    Likes Received:
    881
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2019
    I must admit I have not had any trouble with brass in Mazak, in fact many Tri-ang locos use that combination for motor mountings and pickup plates, as do many of my 2R Dublo locos for retaining pickup plates.

    Mazak is usually self destructive due to impurities, and if conditions are very damp I think yon can get a powdery oxidisation like I have found on some TTR wagons, but in a reasonably dry garage and loft there shouldn't be any issues.

    Most of my vintage buys that were badly stored may have had rusted steel axles and motors but none had a corrosion related Mazak issue. Jim
     
    Andy_Sollis and jakesdad13 like this.
  2. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,446
    Likes Received:
    2,902
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    A nylon screw would be the answer, no chance of any corrosion, but you'd need to be careful tightening it up as it'd shear easily if you overdid it.
    Keith.
     
    jakesdad13 likes this.
  3. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

    Messages:
    1,102
    Likes Received:
    881
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2019
    Just noticed, you mention white metal and mazak these two materials are quite different, white metal can be soldered and will melt with a typical soldering iron, mazak is difficult to solder to, if there is space I would use a solder tag retained by a screw anyway, rather than soldering to a screw head. Jim
     
    jakesdad13 likes this.
  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    9,848
    Likes Received:
    5,902
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    Hi Andy

    A bit late to the party on this - sorry

    A coat of gloss enamel paint (or nail varnish) on both motor frames plus insulation tape on the bottom frame to insulate the motor from the chassis.
    See if you can fit the top brush holder into the bottom brush location, and if so get a replacement brush holder. This would make the conversion relatively straight forward :hammer:
    Solder a wire on to the pickup plate and thread through the hole vacated by the original extended brush holder (the one with the spring).
    Connect the Orange and Grey wires to the brush holders and the cover the bottom one with insulation tape.

    Looking online regarding the corosion worries

    Mazak is a Zinc based alloy with Alluminium, Copper and Magnesium, brass screws would be preferred as Alluminium and Steel (especially Stainless Steel) do not play well together.

    A 3D chassis sounds like a good challenge for you Andy, I'm sure it would be well within your skill set :tophat:

    Paul
     
    Andy_Sollis and jakesdad13 like this.
  5. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,446
    Likes Received:
    2,902
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    I'd guess that white metal would have a fair amount of lead content, hence easily soldered. Mazak might take solder if you could get sufficient heat to the area, though unless you used either a large wattage soldering iron or preferably a gas torch (as the mazak would conduct heat away from the area quite quickly and make melting the solder difficult otherwise) and suitable flux (any suggestions???) you'd struggle.......and before you ask, no, I've never tried soldering mazak.:hammer:
    I reckon Kapton tape would be better than paint or nail varnish.
    Keith.
     
    jakesdad13 likes this.
  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    9,848
    Likes Received:
    5,902
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    My preference for paint / nail varnish, in addition to tape, is with an open frame motor, it requires oiling, and that may effect the glue on the tape so a wee bit of extra insulation cannot be a bad thing.

    As for soldering, Lead based solder will work (C&L recommend 179 degree flux), but needs a strong acid flux (Bakers fluid or Carrs Grey Label) and a soldering iron with a lot of heat reserve. Lead free solder can be used, but needs a far higher temp, which can get close to the melting point of some of the cast alloys.

    Paul
     
    Andy_Sollis and jakesdad13 like this.
  7. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    3,896
    Likes Received:
    3,622
    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2018
    Doh, took the wind out my sails… that’s more ore less what I was going to do. Only need one screw in the chassis block, extend the decoder wire (not looked yet if red or black) down through the hole to the brass contact.

    I probably could do the chassis:D

    I just don’t feel the need.
     
  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    9,848
    Likes Received:
    5,902
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    A bit more research on the Mazak, some variations have lower amounts of Zinc and increased amounts of Alluminium, this makes a cheaper alloy and was often used on older model railway locomotives - now there's a suprise - these do not solder well or if at all - it is more a welding process that is required.

    Paul
     
    Jim Freight and Andy_Sollis like this.

Share This Page