Kimbo wrote: As my son had bought me an Amazon gift card and I was wondering what to get with it I decided to invest in an air brush too, the same as Pauls, I ordered it yesterday and it arrived today! without prime!! result. Cheers, Pete.
Nice one Pete I haven't tried the 0.2 or 0.5 needle / nozzles yet, but have been really impressed with the 0.3. I used it at 15psi. But also worth playing with the front adjuster, it makes a big difference to the spray pattern / quality. Paul
Well finally got the bottle to try and remove the Heljan Cl 128 DPU body for the chip fitment. Got a Gaugemaster DCC27 4 function 21 + 8 pin decoder from Hattons. These little chips have a 21 pin connector at one end and a 9 pin JST connector at the other. Included is a 9 pin JST to 8 pin DCC cable - the 9th wire (purple) is wrapped around the loom. The 4 body screws were removed Then the body prised loose with finger nails - not a pleasent experience - bit nerve wracking. Revealin the 21 pin blanking plug Revealling the socket The chip is then inserted on to the pins, taking care to note the missing pin for orientation. All in all less than 15 min to complete the install and that included refitting the body, care needs to be taken with the exhaust pipes. Just need to test - but that needs a bit o track with power. Paul
That makes me feel better seeing you do this ! I'm considering sound in the Parcel Van and also my Class 33. Whilst the dollar is good in the UK, it's worth it now to purchase. Cheers, Gary.
Well a few days early, but my birthday pressie has arrived, and the boss has allowed me to unbox it - not sure if I get to play with it just yet. Certainly well packed Comes with software, manual, and a guide to unpacking on the enclosed SD card - still to check the contents. Also in the box, a reel of black PLA fillament, usb cable, mains cable and some screws and an allen key. Need to go round 3 of my daughters house move beckons. Paul
I can see Toto is going to give me the flick now Paul ,and you will become his newest, bestest, of all time greatest friend and true buddy, buddy. How long do you reckon it would take to print out a rake of O Gauge coaches.????? Happy Birthday Paul.......hope it`s a wee ripper !!!!! http://www.clickhttp://www.clickhttp://www.clickhttp://www.clickGormo
Wow you must have been a very good boy Happy birthday Paul, hope when the day rolls round it a great one. Going to be interesting to watch what you can produce on the work bench
Coffee break between moves ...... On the NET quite a few remark about screws etc being loose, so far everything seems tight, I will check, but care has to be taken not to over tighten and pull the nut through the frame. I theory, just two screws need fastening to secure the hot end (extruder assembly), and assemble the filament cradle spindle with the two sides and Boab's yer auntie's hubby ...... we shall see There will be a steep learning curve on both the design software and the slicing and printing software. I have noticed that most of the first prints / projects seem to be upgrades to the stock printer. As for an O gauge coach, it would have to be a small non-bogie item, but I do fancy trying to do a wagon, perhaps a plywood sided to start with. One of the first projects to try will be the boiler fill in for the 4F, and chimneys for Viccy Road, but that maybe a while away .... Coffee break over, the boss and her apprentice are summoning ..... hubble, bubble toil and trouble Paul
That's a nice prezzie Paul, I could see you were tempted when you first mentioned it......bit too advanced for my computer "skills(??)" though, but I'll be interested to see what you produce. A young railway mad friend of mine has had several 009 loco bodies 3D printed after he did the design (He's just got his Masters degree in Mechanical Engineering, and seems to know his way around computer design!) and gets royalties on bodies sold. Must admit having seen the results, I was impressed, but far above my abilities I'm afraid. Keith.
These pictures are the equivalent of a mechanical striptease. Looks very impressive Paul. Happy birthday messiah Now ....... How does it work.
Think I have to wait until thursday before I'm allowed to play - but seemingly I can test it to make sure it works . However between the apprentice and the boss, I'll be lucky if I get to play before next birthday . Just fitted the hot end - two screws, next look at the manual, I know I'm a male and it's against our genetic make up, but this time I think I will show a little patience before pressing go - Toto the same can be applied to purchases as well . Installing Makerbot and ReplicatorG - yet to find out what each does. Paul
Happy birthday Paul ! http://www.click Nice pressie indeed. Now, I need 36 windows for my parcel depot.... Cheers, Gary.
And there's power .... Had my first attempt at levelling the bed, using a piece of paper as a feeler gauge, then printed the 20mm test piece (file included on the SD card). Front looked good, and although you can see verticle lines on the right hand side, I can't feel them with my finger nail. The raft around the base was dodgy - incomplete, so another bed levelling session, with the grip on the paper a little tighter. Decided to print one of the other files on the SD card 3h04m later This time the raft was perfect and pulled off the final model, but did notice when it was printing, errors around the jaw This was caused by the print area being so small that the PLA hadn't cooled enough before the next layer was added. So mod No.1 to be printed will be a cooling fan for the nozzle tip. Paul
So upgrade No.1 A great place to look for items is http://www.thingiverse.com I thought this looked rather fine Thingiverse - Active Dual Cooling duct by Thruit00 I downloaded the files and opened them up in Makerbot, set up the print job and created the g code print file, and transferred it to the SD card - the printer and my PC are at opposite corners of the room. Started up the printer, selected the file and hit go This build used the default settings, with a raft around the parts. It builds up the ducts to the cooling, then closes them over Then builds the fan enclosure at the rear - disaster struck, just like with the bust test piece, the fan assembly section is quite small, so the printer can complete each layer quickly - too quickly, so much so the PLA hadn't had time to cool enough. Catch 22, I need the cooling duct to be able to print small sections, but can't print the cooling duct. Several solutions to be considered print with a different material - ABS is normally printed without the cooling, but can be of a ****** to keep it stuck to the plate and uses far higher temps print at a slower speed - will give more time for the PLA to cool print at a lower temp - drop the extrusion temp, but still has to be high enough to work provide some form of cooling. In true fasion I plumbed for all of them As I didn't have any ABS and only one spool of PLA that came with the printer, I ordered some up from Amazon, could have got it cheaper on ebay, but delivery time were a week plus. Amazon Prime - next day, so I picked a reel of ABS and PLA from a Prime shop, then saved a few pounds and got a couple of more which will take a week to arrive. In the makerbot program, I reduced the print speed, and the move to speeds from the default 90/150 to 50/60, and reduced the temp from 215 to 205 degrees. Finally, rigged up a bit of additional cooling An 80 mm fan held in place with some masking tape. The original print took 1h50min to complete, the slowed down version took 3h50min, but it worked and the rear Regarding print time, one of the reasons to use the SD card for the image rather than print direct from the PC is the long print times, the PC would need to be up (no sleep modes etc) for the whole time, and some high detail large prints can take over 10 hours. Just need to fit the 40mm fan into the duct. Also ordered from amazon a USB extender, essentially a USB 2 to Ethernet - Ethernet to USB 2, and can extend the USB length up to 150m, this will allow me to directly connect the PC and printer so I can use the ReplicatorG software to setup and calibrate the printer correctly - yes, I wanted to play first and do the boring stuff later Paul
So after playing with bits for thew platform awnings and Toto's Traverser motor mount prototypes, and more importantly, my son's wedding is done and dusted, I finally got to play with the 3D printer before heading back to work. So up early on Sat, got the brownie points in by taking SWMBO to the town - clothes shopping and even treated her to lunch out, back at the ranch, time to play. I'd used up the last of my first 1Kg reel of PLA that came with the printer, so lo0aded up a reel of white PLA (actually the reel is two different colours on the same reel, with a divider between them). And printed a wall, then tried the blue. I was having a nightmare of a time getting them to stick to the print bed, and layers splitting, the more I played the worse it got . Eventually, probably caused by me changing filaments so often, the extruder jammed Then spent most of today stripping the whole hotend down for cleaning, but were back up and running, bed levelled as best as I can for the standard bed, I am going to download from Thingiverse, glass bed mounts to convert it over to a glass bed - later for that storey tho. I still using Blue painters tape, but I'm cleaning it with window cleaner between prints, and seems to be working a lot better. To try and test it I'm trying this model ...... guesses below This one was chosen as it covers most of my build plate so should push printer a bit. All will be revealed tomorrow - this one takes approx 17hrs to print, and its only 1 of four parts Paul
Maybe for Lulu or Mac, but don't think my teeth would survive it. 7 hours later (only 66% done) and we have ......... Of the additional components, one is a handle - of any help ? Paul