Cobblers

Discussion in 'Scenics' started by Toto, Apr 23, 2018.

  1. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Following on from Pauls latest clay walling on his " Bridge to far " thread, I'm looking at how I can apply the same technique to laying cobbles between track rails. This is for a section of track outside the area of the goods shed on Luib Bridge. The idea of forming a jig the width of the gap in the tracks is easy enough but then you have the depressions between the sleepers to consider. You would either have to fill them first to gain a flat surface at sleeper level for which to lay the cobble surface onto or trying to roll the clay directly into the gap and forming the cobbles in place.

    Another option is the use of slaters cobble sheeting cut to width and glued to the top of the sleepers. It would probably require a sheet of plastikard underneath it first to bring the cobble sheet up to the correct height.

    No rush as its a bit further down the line but it's on the radar.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  2. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Straight or curved ?
    Based on the point I have just measured and the track jigs I 3D printed the width would be 29mm x 1.6mm plus a 26mm x 4.25mm base section to clear the chairs and sit on the sleepers.


    29mm will give enough clearance for the flanges.

    You could make the jig from plasticard 1.6mm is approx 70 thou and 4.25mm is 170 thou.
    Add an extra 10 or 20 thou spacer for rolling out with the plain roller, remove it then roll with the textured roller.

    You could get away with rolling out straight sections, then while still soft remove them from the jig and lay into the curved track - worth a try.

    Paul
     
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  3. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I'll take a look at both methods Paul. The plastikard may give a better result as its closer to scale than the roller.
     
  4. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Regarding the infill between the rails, if I were you I would try and get the level slightly below the rail tops so as not to hinder track cleaning later.
    If you use a track rubber it will take the finish off the infill if it is level with the rails.

    Pete.
     
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  5. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Pete,

    Didn't even think of that. Very good point. :scratchchin: I was going to create a little " heave " in the middle of the track as well. Not much, just a very slight bevel. Barely noticeable. I thought a 10 mm strip of plastic strip about 0.5mm thick running the length of the track then lay the thin clay on top just to raise it in the middle a bit. Maybe won't bother now. :avatar:

    That's what I get for thinking.
     
  6. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Not being stupid here but is it possible to improvise using an adapted rubber that clears any high areas with the rails? Maybe a rubber cut in two and mounted on a woodedn block so the is clearance space between the rubbers.
     
  7. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Ahhhhh now ..... Someone's thinking.
     
  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I'd prefer the raised rail / sunken cobbles - that way you can have tripping hazzard notices and a tripping incident on the layout :avatar:

    May be best sealing the clay with a good polyurethane varnish, then apply the paints on top, then use chemicals (isopropanol etc) to clean the track.

    Paul
     
  9. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Whatever way I do it, it will probably be more luck than good judgement. :avatar: As long as it looks the part. Id say base coat of paint, varnish then joint and varnish again. But that's just me.
     
  10. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    It doesn't need to be way below rail level, just enough for track maintenance.
    I prefer the IPA track cleaning method now. But I was talking to a guy at a show and he was on about using a piece of hardboard to clean the rails, not tried it yet so not sure how effective it is???

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
  11. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I tried taking a bit of 16mm x 25mm white wood along the top of the track. Amazing the crap it takes off.
     
  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I'm sure Gormo's track cleaning wagon used hardboard as well - no doubt the great man will correct me if i'm wrong.

    Paul
     
  13. katwigan

    katwigan Full Member

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    Toto, Haven't used this in situ but did a little experiment with a set of rollers from shapeways. The pattern is rolled into DAS, the best example of it being the lower L/H molding ( I got a bit misaligned here and there resulting in multiple joint lines.)
    There are two rollers in the set, one to do between the rails c/w recess for flanges and the other to do an area on the outside.
    Bit more trialling needed but the first indications look pretty good to me.
    IMG_1631.JPG
    https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/scenery/?.

    Can't find the photo of the rollers currently but will post it when I do.

    Kevan
     
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  14. katwigan

    katwigan Full Member

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    Err Toto, howcome your thread now says I started it before I became a member ? ( well on my computer it does anyway )
     
  15. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Kevan,

    First of all, thanks for posting up the above. Looks like a great result. Is the roller set in O Gauge ? I'll have a look on shapeways site as they look really good. Just what I want. :thumbs:

    The thread shows the last person to post on the thread as opposed to who created it. It's something I intend to look at and possibly change if possible. It's been highlighted by a couple of members.

    Great result with the DAS and the rollers. I'll report back once I've visited shapeways site. Thanks for that.

    Cheers

    Toto

    PS .... did you encounter any issues with shrinkage of the clay as it dried out ?
     
  16. katwigan

    katwigan Full Member

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    I think they do O gauge stuff, there has't been any signs of shrinkage or cracking ( other than one in upper L/H bit whick I think was me getting a bit hevy handed ( I can lift 'eavy boxes too )

    Kev
     
  17. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    You would not believe it ......... every scale but O Gauge. What a great product as well. Screaming out for someone to do an O Gauge version of the rollers ( one internal track width and one say twice the width ) in a 3D print ( Paul ) unless someone else does an O Gauge version already.

    The hunt is on for an O Gauge version.

    Toto
     
  18. katwigan

    katwigan Full Member

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    Surely it would only need the 4mm version being enlarged in the printing process by the appropriate %.
    Kev
     
  19. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I would think so. They are nice big rollers as well rather than the thinner versions that you get in glass. I think it would make them easier to use. Your results look very good. The area that I will be doing is not huge so if I have to go to the bother of hand sculpting then ok, but it would be a good tool to have for future use as well.

    I'll need to speak to Paul nicely and see if he can knock something up on his 3D printer. He is a bit quiet lately. :avatar:
     
  20. katwigan

    katwigan Full Member

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    Err my clock tells me it's nearly 4:30AM where you are! have you made a mess of the bed or something? or am I keeping you up?
     

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