Connoisseur Models LMS Fowler 4F

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Toto, Sep 2, 2017.

  1. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    No worries Rob,

    The photos are definitely misleading but his wording is a bit clearer. The brake rigging at that particular section is directly under the 1.5mm brass rod. There is no way the two could be incorporated into the balance weight structure unless you installed it vertically as opposed to horizontally. I had to take 5 when I studied it but eventually the penny dropped as to what was intended.

    I may be able to show the various rodding arrangements better in another photo.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
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  2. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Well, finally got into the shed today. nothing to hold me back in terms of duties. Was meant to take mumsie for her weekly shop but when I got up ....... jesus ..... I could not move for the pain. wow. started from my arse bone and worked its way down my right leg. Could not stand. So I spent all day doping myself up with pain killers and lying back on the settee.

    Anyway .... its eased off a bit and I can at least walk. its a start. bugger.

    So .... where are we ? I had a few tasks I needed to to today and I have made a start on them. I started by reaming out the holes on the chassis to accept the plunger pick ups ....


    so ... that was an easy break in to getting myself focused again. Next up was to look at the motor and gear with a view to a test fit ........


    so we started with this which is one of Jims accessory lines. You do get a gearbox with the kit done in nickle silver but I thought I'd just use the one from this kit as I was using the motor from it. The other one will not eat a piece in the spares box.


    here it is built up and soldered.


    ax usual, the axle holes had to be reamed out to accept the axles as they were to small. Pretty standard really.


    then I fitted the motor and gear to the axle etc .......


    and another .....


    then a trial fit to the chassis and all is well.....


    from the top .......


    then trial fitted the footplate to find the lye of the land ......


    then the fire box.

    It all seems to fit ok. It has not required the trimming of the motor drive as there is enough room in the fire box to take it so I'll leave it as it is. Always an option of a flywheel further down the line.

    i have the mesh of the motor and gear pretty good I think but it may require more fine adjustment once power is put to it. Once tested, i will spot solder the motor mount in place.

    Next step is to laminate the driving rods and get them fitted along with the wheels and pop it on the rolling road with power to it. I may laminate the rods tonight but it will be tomorrow before power hits the rails. I had hoped to have completed that today but lost the whole afternoon due to the pain I was in.

    more later as it happens.

    cheers

    toto
     
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  3. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Good grief Toto that pain sounds cronic, do you think you may have a trapped nerve or maybe something to do with this recent cold weather affecting by draught ? I hope you feel better very soon.

    The build looks great but making up those coupling rods takes some time.:thumbs:
     
  4. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I just thought I would try the wheels on to see the clearance of the brake hangers that I installed yesterday ..... I wanted to know if I had to make any alteration prior to adding the primer coat to the chassis .... and here we are.


    you can just see the brass rod to the front of the wheel.


    and again on the middle axle just to the right of the sand box .....


    and the front axle just to the side of the sand box.

    and a quick general shot .....


    Tomorrow , as well as the driving rods, i will cut the brake shoes off the fret , laminate as required and do a test fit to see if I am expecting any issues.

    thats it for now.

    toto
     
  5. Mark4mm

    Mark4mm Guest

    Hi Toto it’s great that your able to get to the shed even though you are still in some discomfort. It sounds like sciatica mate.
     
  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Mark,

    that's what I thought. it ain't pleasant that's for sure. hope you are keeping well too.

    Yorkie, I'll just do away with them, won't rush them. I want to check the brake shoes as well as I will be priming the structure prior to installing the rigging. I may eeven do a dry run on the rigging to see just how close things are.

    I think I am actually learning and thinking things through now prior to just jumping in.

    cheers

    toto
     
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  7. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    That was my mistake |Toto ... I added the brake rigging in way too soon, its not such an issue just irritating that I have to do double work... never mind we all live and learn.
     
  8. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Coming along very nicely Toto.

    (Not sure if it helps with the gear meshing together, I ran mine in both directions for 30 mins before adding the rods. It did seem to run smoother and a little quieter, in my mind I was thinking ahead that if I assembled it all together and there was an issue with running it could be either meshing or the rods, but doing it the way I did would make fault finding a little easier. )
     
  9. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Good point Kimbo,

    I can run it whilst I'll laminating the rods. I'll be on to that today. I'm up early for a Sunday as I need time for the pain killers to kick in. I want this afternoon as well as this evening to get things pushed ahead.

    I'll update as to how I get on later.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  10. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I hope that Paul doesn't mind me quoting his post over on this thread but the photo that he has posted has highlighted what was throwing me when I was asking about the balance weights and being connected to the brake cross shafts. It's the bit highlighted in yellow that had me. had the balance weights been connected to the inside motion as designed on the full sized loco there wouldn't be a cross shaft, ech balance weight would ultimately connect to a drop link that would connect to the eccentrics. No doubt it has been done on the kit to create the illusion of something being between the frames to fill the gap without going in to the full blown detail of inside motion.

    rsz_img_20200613_205219 - 1.jpg
     
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  11. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I have absolutely no issue with that Rob, in fact I see quoting over posts as a way to generate conversation and the exchange of ideas. I now know exactly what you are questioning here and maybe I can throw some light on the matter... so here goes.

    In the kit the weights are formed from multiple laminations which once fitted into place on the main weight shaft are delicate and can become prone to accidental bending if fitting other things into position later, so Jim suggests keeping these otherwise "top heavy" laminated etches in place with a length of 0.7mm wire fed in across the ends of the weight bars, obviously this isn't strictly correct and never appeared on the real loco but for this kit does go some way towards protecting the weights from permanent damage. I did look at the possibility of installing an internal working valve motion set but decided against doing that as the spirit of this three way build was to keep things simple and fun, the Laurie Griffin internal working motion set was also £100.

    Years ago I actually painted 44422 when it was first outshopped at Cheddleton, I made the varnish fix lettering and numbering from duplex paper coated in gelatine to release the paint, it worked quite well and I got a very good LMS overlay in ochre counter shaded in red. As for the kit in reality the wires holding the brake hanger brackets which pass through the frames should really be cut off after the brake hangers are soldered in position, I've left these in place to add some extra strength and rigidity to the frames. Hope info this helps.

    cheers York Paul
     
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  12. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Personally I dont know how these things worked on the real thing so cant comment but after some deliberation, I worked out what Jim had intended. I , like yourself Yorkie have left the cross fods in place for additional strength. No harm really as it's not seen.

    Toto
     
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  13. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Absolutely no reason to remove them, I took the opinion that Jim had seen something which required him to design the kit in that way and I'll admit whilst I like a challenge I'm not up for making a high end upgrade here, for me the focus of the triple build is to compare and take on board three differing aspects of making the same kit. Right now I'm just about to solder wire to Slater's pick ups ... so once fitted I'll report on how freely the wheels rotate with the coupling rods fitted,, reason I say this is because Idry tested using the NRMS ones I bought last year... they are way to aggressive and the rounded stud contact acts like a brake on full lock. No good and they had to come off, luckily I had a spare unopened set which I robbed from the Britannia kit.
     
  14. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Thanks for the explanation Paul, as you describe it what Jim has designed makes perfect sense. I regularly marvel at the fact that many of Jim's kits were hand drawn 20 plus years ago (the LSWR etches are dated 1998) and they still stand up there with more recent CAD designed kits on the market.
     
  15. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I'll look forward to seeing how you get on Yorkie. I'm laid up again with my back / legs. I hope to salvage sometime tonight.ain killers just kicking in a bit now. Not good.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  16. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    A little improvement today. I could at least make the stairs when I got up and walked unsupported into the shower. Back at work sitting in front of a laptop this morning but with regular breaks planned to get up and move around. My prescription should be available from the pharmacy later today so I'll hopefully get an hour or two in the shed tonight ...... hurrah.:avatar:

    An update later tonight.

    Toto :cheers:
     
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  17. Mark4mm

    Mark4mm Guest

    Toto hopefully when you start taking the pain killers they will start to kick in.;)
     
  18. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Great to hear you are on the mend and things are feeling easier... my best advice if you don't mind is for goodness sake don't overdo yourself on the bench tonight because you will pay for it the following day but do try and be mobile, siting in one posture for too long is very bad. :thumbup:
     
  19. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Thanks chaps, I am up and about to try and keep moving. I went for a walk last night with Lynne and Lulu albeit I did not take charge of Lulu as she can pull a bit at times. It was a walk at my slower pace but a walk none the less.

    I'm getting there.

    Toto
     
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  20. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Good show Toto, to get the sciatic nerve to settle back down properly from being trapped easy movement is the key, its when people with bad backs sit in the easy chair in one posture for long periods that things go bad, the body like the relax but complains because the nerve hasn't returned to its correct place and of course you get shooting pains. Glad you could manage a short walk last night. :thumbup:
     

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