Dabbling in Fusion 360

Discussion in '3D Modeling Projects' started by Rob Pulham, Jun 25, 2021.

  1. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    If you do File > Open you get this screen:

    2022-08-17 (4).png


    That's a list of the current version of projects you have saved using the disk icon, as opposed to pulling back an exported file from your computer, they can be different.

    Looking forward to seeing the lamp port in all it's naked glory.
    Mossy
     
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  2. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    This is what I have on my screen..



    upload_2022-8-17_20-19-44.png upload_2022-8-17_20-20-43.png
     
  3. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    How odd, I would suggest that you have an old version but it auto updates so it's unlikely.
     
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  4. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Exactly what I had and I don't know the reason for it.
     
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  5. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Ok, First up is the vertical print.
    The column is the easiest to remove, but not the lamp head. I may have too much support..

    can’t see the side fluting but you can feel it. 943AD7E5-6067-4E7C-97C7-612DA0912C61.jpeg
    45 degree printed. Lamp head easiest to remove but I think I broke some detail in the gas feed. I’ve over scaffolded here too on the column.

    6573BD96-5204-4F66-8737-84C3E5D93694.jpeg
    Horizontal is easy to remove, come out neat but the head broke on the gas feed in the middle. I’ve superglued back in place.

    823B81AF-5441-42F6-9F5C-348E6B419FCA.jpeg
    a column on its own a little close up.

    5636028C-80A7-4937-ADD2-B134F639B801.jpeg

    so we shall be on to plan B. None of the heads fit.. I think I actually forgot to check the sizes.. and for some reason the head is smaller that the last ones I did and the LED would never fit.. unless I can find smaller !
     
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  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Think the vertical print will clean up the best for the lamp post.

    The main disadvantage of printing direct to the build plate is the elephants foot, which is difficult to control. The advantage is the model is normally firmly attached - provided the contact area is big enough.

    Paul
     
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  7. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    For the head unit try printing it the other way up, it will need less supports

    Paul
     
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  8. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Hmm. I’d not thought of that as normally try and hide the sprue marks. I’ll give that a go! :thumbs:
     
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  9. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Mossy asked me if I would post a note about how I put the curve for the wheel profile on my brake shoes. It did it via the draft command which is found under the Modify menu.

    Draft command.png

    Draft command 2.png
    Click on the draft command, select which face you wish to apply the draft to, and chose which direction you want the angle to be applied to then type in the angle of draft. I started at 5% and it seems fine.

    Draft command 1.png

    Draft command 3.png
     
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  10. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Thanks Rob, I assume the same angle would apply to wagons. coaching stock and loco brakes. I have just assembled an R1 Coke without the brakes so I will use your logic and see how the brakes turn out.

    Mossy
     
  11. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I would think so, I am pretty sure that all Slaters wheels have the same degree of taper on them.
     
  12. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Well that was a nice easy process, test brakes are printing now, so a test fit will be done later today.

    Thanks Rob
     
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  13. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    No problem, knowledge is for sharing not hoarding.
     
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  14. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Rob

    Just curious but have you found any other places where the drift function comes in useful?
     
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  15. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I haven't so far but it's early days. As I understand it, it's principle function is to create drafts on patterns that are to be cast. In order to allow them to release from the mould easier. Such things used to have to be done manually on the casting master by the pattern maker.
     
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  16. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Someone on the Guild forum asked about how easy it might be to print some rainwater goods so I quickly knocked up a sample based on a photo that he posted.
    Rainwater goods v1.png
    Rainwater goods v2.png
    Rainwater goods v3.png
     
  17. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    A short video on how to create a domed ellipse for tank fillers etc.

     
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  18. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Stuff like rain water gear is as easy as pie with fusion and very printable.
    Thanks for the dome video.
     
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  19. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    A new way of doing planking and floors.

    I have recently been messing about drawing an NER G4 Road wagon, 27ft long and covered in planking 2.3mm wide. I have laboriously drawn the planking for a quarter side which almost drove me insane, if I wasn't already. Next task a quarter end but rather than resort to drawing the planking again I have been experimenting with the pattern on a path function of Fusion 360, yep a couple of false starts, but I have hit on a nice easy way of creating either grooved planks or floor boards.

    First up my standard plank 2.3mm wide, slightly taller than required with .1mm wide x .2mm deep cuts in either side, just nicely defines each plank for it's neighbour.
    The lower orange dashed line is the path along which to repeat.

    Step 1.jpg

    Next Create > Pattern > Pattern on Path, and fill in parameters, object to be patterned, path, distance and no of repeats. I need 10 and a halfish planks so tried 11 x 2.3 = 25.3 but that didn't work, eventually I settled on 24.25 which did. I don't know why but such is life.
    Step 2.jpg

    Final step chop away the parts not needed which neatly gave me the planking for a quarter end.

    Step 3.jpg

    One thing I haven't figured out is when you try to combine them into a single body, they don't, grrr. I solved this by creating a .1mm thick backing plate of the required shape and combined them on to it. Old school way too long, new way (now it's figured out) 5 minutes. There must be other instances where this would work but the only one I can come up with is the bricks on Andy's signal boxes which I believe he copies and pastes.
     
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  20. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I used the pattern on a path to do the washout plugs on the first firebox drawing. I then realised that you couldn't alter them individually, so on the latest version they are all separate entities.

    Perfect of course for plank lines where you would only ever want to adjust them all at once.
     

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