The parts for the railbus build are now here so over the coming days/weeks/years I'll put them all together it'll give me a break from plonks (of all kinds). Chassis is a 142 apparently not tested yet but am reassured its a good runner and for £14.99 worth a punt. Paint is going to be my next problem as with no model or auto spares shops I'll have to wing it ... again[size= ][/size][size=Ian vt ][/size] Attached files
Good one Ian, Can you get your paint through the mail from UK......or is that illegal ????? http://www.clickGormo
Illegal Gormo but the chinese shop sells various cans so fingers crossed they'll have something close 3' rule eh Ian vt
Fingers crossed for sure, Maybe if your Chinese friend can supply some basic colours, you could do some mixing to create the shade you want.??? http://www.clickGormo
My chinese friend ... is a useless idiot who doesnt face hid shop up correctly and spends all his time on his mobile phone ... however his shop does have a good range of products ... if you can find it ... Ian vt
Looking forward to see how you go with this one Ian. As it goes the 142 chassis is too long. All you need from that is the two bogies. Will sort out some info on the chassis build and post it later. Look here for more info on chassis build http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=11419&forum_id=21
Hi Bittern many thanks for the impressive railbus conversion great modelling! Though I'm not sure if I'm up to that skill level yet ... however i do have a cop out of sorts. On the new plank the rail bus will run along a raised line so the parapet will hide the wheels. However I am going to look at altering the length of the chassis or diguiseing the wheels. But again thanks for your effort i'm sure someone will find it very useful. Ian vt
Ok having been inspired by Bittern (the only way to progress inmodelling is to have a go) I am considering cutting out the fuel tank section of the chassis to shorten it. Then remove the 142 bogie frame detail and glue the dapol sideframes in their place. However before that what adhesive will I need to rejoin the chassis and attach the various pieces as I'm not sure if normal plastic cement will work ... ideas please. Ian vt Attached files
Many loco body/chassis plastic parts (particularly Hornby stuff) seem resistant to Superglue and the usual Poly glues. I've found this out when converting couplings to Kadee using their "Draft gear boxes" where they need to be stuck to chassis undersides. In this instance, I find that the "UHU" clear all purpose adhesive gives a good fixing, although you have to be careful of it 'stringing' which can make a mess if you're not careful. Keith.
I wonder if the glue plumbers use for ABS pipe would work, its pretty fierce? Mind you I would use it on something not important first! Pete.
Cheers Keith/Pete a few to have a go at there. Another idea is to cut the fuel tank off but leaving a flange at either end and drill and bolt the two halves together ... watch this space .. Ian vt
Try Acetone if its ABS based - the cheap and nasty nail varnish remover without the lanolin, afterall your not worried about smooth skin, you need texture Try it out on the off cuts. Paul
