DCC Loco Conversions - 37 - Tri-ang Britannia R.259 1960

Possibly the simplest type of conversion, it is easily applied to X04 motors and similar types.

This loco has undergone many changes in its lifetime but this installation would be valid even in its original state, except for smoke units which I do not connect to a decoder.

I initially fitted this loco with a Hattons DCR-8PIN-HarnessMini but would be upset by Britannia bouncing over one particular set of points on the mainline where power was interrupted enough to momentarily stop the loco. However if Britannia was driven slowly over those same points no problem whatsoever.

Second attempt was one of my first fits of a Rails Connect family decoder, the RoS-6D, this proved successful so is shown here, I temporarily fitted a 6 pin socket to the chassis which I have now left it in place.

Currently (2022+) I solder directly to pins 1 to 4 of the RoS-6D and crop off the unused pins.

Fitting a RoS-6D Decoder

Suppression components removed and both arms of the brush spring are insulated with sleeves, decoder wires are soldered to the brushes. Decoder fixed in place with a double sided sticky pad.

The images show the position of the RoS-6D.










Summary

A straightforward DCC conversion with the right decoder family!


Discussion always

Jim

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Hi Dave.

Please upload some images and tell me who makes this loco and I may be able to help you.

Jim

 

Hi Dave, if you look at some of my introductory articles on converting locos they should help you, but certainly get back to us here, most locos can be converted, some are just more challenging than others, and some are not worth the effort due to the materials they were made of.

Link to my earlier articles here

Jim

 

Yes, very much the same as mine, all you need to do to insolate the motor is to put a sleeve on the brush spring wire that is bare, pink sleeves in the images above, especially visible in my last two images.

Track power goes to the decoder from the pickup wire, and a solder tag attached to the chassis for the other, should be able to see that in my pics too.

Motor power from the decoder goes directly on the brushes, make sure there is slack to prevent the wires tugging on the brushes.

I would suggest you give the loco a thorough clean up for good electrical conductivity, wheels through to brushes and commutator.

Before connecting the decoder check with a multimeter that both brushes are definitely not connected to either sets of wheels otherwise the decoder will likely be destroyed if track power gets to the decoder motor drive connections.

Then confirm on the programming track.

The loco probably has magnetic grip, so the tyres are probably steel, the tyres will need cleaning often.

However these locos will run very well.

I suspect a Hornby decoder may not be up to the job as they strike me as minimal spec on all aspects, never had any joy with them so never use them now.

Jim

 

Hi Dave, the Rails of Sheffield, "Connect family" RoS-6D is what I found works well, Jim

 

Regarding sound, I would not advise it, they are expensive, easily damaged and will probably be drowned out by the amount of noise these old timers make

Jim

 

They do disintegrate with age, I fitted relatively fine scale wheels to mine because decades ago it was run on handbuilt track built with code 100 rail, these days I use Peco Streamline Code 100, if on the other hand you are running it on the old Super 4 track then replacement coarse ones should be available on eBay.

Jim

 

Great, thanks for letting me know, Jim