Disraeli Gears

Discussion in 'Strictly Inglenooks' started by Tony Davis, Apr 8, 2016.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Probably from the h-o-o-r, i'll check the bad word filter - should be ok now

    Paul
     
  2. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Thanks Paul
     
  3. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    1photo' of the Bachmann 08 chipped loco as requested.
    The layout is taking time, the sun is (briefly) shining, the garden needs doing and during the small window of sunny opportunity I am mainly outside digging and planting, so the layout has had to take a bit of a back seat. I have been assembling some scalescene kits for the backscene, and also playing with the trackplan. I am toying with the idea of having a short spur for a second loco, which will sort the wagons brought in by the first loco, but I will have to install isolating block joints and a second feed. I am also thinking of changing to code 75 track as; a) it looks better and b) I have some peco under surface point motors.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  4. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Photo 2

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  5. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    ....and photo' 3

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Very nice. Coming along. I use code 75 track and it is a nicer looking track.
    Did you notice if the blanking chip came in the loco box?
    if not, I can send one on to you if you like. just let me know. :thumbs:
    like your scalescenes kits as well. nicely done.
    cheers
    toto
     
  7. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Thanks Toto, I will probably go with code 75, just need to measure up as the Peco points are larger than the Hornby ones as you know and I need to make sure I can maintain the 5-3-3 ratio.

    No, there was no blanking plug in the box, there is some slight damage to the loco, the grab rail is missing as can be seen in the photo, but I am still pleased with it.
     
  8. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    The loco looks good otherwise. You could always add a grab rail from a bit of brass rod / wire.
    I have the same loco. they are nice.
    You can print off code 75 track templates from Peco I'm sure if you go onto their website. that way you could try laying out paper copies before taking the plunge.
    looking good anyway.
    cheers
    Toto
     
  9. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Oh yes, forgot about the templates!, thanks, I'll do that.
     
  10. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    G'day Anthony,

    If you intend going for new track, aim at using electrofrog points. Way better electrical continuity across the frogs, especially for short wheel base locos like the 08 or smaller. :thumbs: If you get stuck on wiring these up (if you decide on Electrofrog), sing out as we're here to help.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  11. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Hi Gary,

    I have thought about using electrofrog but have been put off by all the black arts required to install them.

    I will take you up on your kind offer.

    Expect more questions!!

    Regards,

    Tony
     
  12. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    No black art what so ever. ;) All of my smaller shunting plank layouts I have used wire in tube for point movements, rather than point motors/solenoids. The way I see it it is, if the layout is small enough and you don't need to run from one end to the other, wire in tube is the way to go. No cost in extra point motors, wiring, switches etc.

    This diagram shows how I wired my points via a slide switch for point direction and polarity control.

    [​IMG]
    Cheers, Gary.
     
  13. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Well it looks fairly straightforward, but I have some point motors already so, and I understand what you are saying about simplicity, it seems a shame not to use them. Does that complicate matters?
     
  14. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    No, not at all. I did read that you are using surface mounted point motors (PL-11 ??), silly me. I would suggest a micro switch under the layout that can switch the polarity.

    If you have Peco solenoids, Peco supply a seperate switch piece (PL-15) that can switch polarity. This attaches to the solenoid (PL-10)
    This is the seperate piece : http://www.peco-uk.com/product.asp?strParents=3309&CAT_ID=3337&P_ID=17686

    Don't forget that you may need to use a CDU (capacitor discharge unit) to boost the power to throw the points. Alternatively, if you have an old 16v transformer/power supply, this will be adequate power to throw points.

    Gaugemaster CDU : http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GMC-CDU&r=1

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  15. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Hi Gary,

    Sorry mate they are under surface - is that the right description, the ones that you make an hole in the baseboard and fit the motors directly to the turnout? I believe I need to put some card with a slit in it to cover the hole when I ballast the track.
     
  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Or if you havent yet cut the hole, then drill a 8 or 10 mm dia hole under the point tie bar, and use the extension bar on the end of the point motor actuator to extend it through the base board.

    Paul
     
  17. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Hi Paul,

    No, I haven't cut anything as yet. I still need to get the new turnouts and flextrack.

    Regards,

    Tony
     
  18. SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Tony your making Great progress.
    And you are making the right decision to look at the new track work at this stage before you get too far, the under point solinodes and accessory switch module are the easiest way to go.
    With several options of mounting so you can choose what suits your layout best point mount = big hole with a bit of paper or card to cover or as Paul said a small slot under the tie bar of the point and an under mount motor.
    The point wireing mods for full DCC compatibility are not hard and most of the current Peco point range has instructions on how to do supplied or you can download from Peco

    http://www.peco-uk.com/page.asp?id=instruct
    The diagrams are all there like this one basicly as per Gary's wiring with the switch but using a accessory switch on a motor below the point and you can see the links you cut and don't forget the insulated joiners behind the crossing V (Frog)

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  19. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    The only thing I would do in the above diagram is NOT solder the wires to the rail joiners. Always solder to the rail sides. You cannot guarantee good electrical continuity through the rail joiners only. :thumbup:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  20. Tony Davis

    Tony Davis Full Member

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    Thanks Chris & Gary, very helpful info, actualy looks fairly straightforward.
     

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