Fitting a decoder to a Hornby R2066 Class 4F

Discussion in 'Non Sound Decoders' started by pgcroc, Feb 19, 2019.

  1. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Hi All
    Anybody know of any instructions on how to do this.
    I have searched this site, the web and hornby. Nothing.
    Fairly new at this.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  2. TimberSurf

    TimberSurf Full Member

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  3. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    I take it this is the old Airfix tender drive model and not the Bachmann one which is loco drive?
     
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  4. TimberSurf

    TimberSurf Full Member

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    Good point Andy, as it was the only 4f i could find, I didn't notice it was the newer bachmann version.
    I found a really good site the other week and now cant find it! :mad:. I think this means a new category is required in my LINKS page :idea: and some more research is needed!
     
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  5. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Thanks guys.
    I will post a photo of the tender and motor tomorrow.
    I say Ringfield as that is what it says on the spec sheet with the loco.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  6. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Forgot to say it is tender driven.
     
  7. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    It’s a Hornby ex airfix.

    I have one at my dads. Will try and grab it out the loft and take some pictures tomorrow hopefully as to how I did it. If time permits.

    And yes, it’s a pancake/ringfield type drive)
     
  8. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Photos attached.
     

    Attached Files:

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  9. mikejh

    mikejh Full Member

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    This is very similar tender dive principal should be the same.




    Mike
     
  10. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Thanks Mike
    I will look at this and give it a go.
    Just trying to work out what size harness I need together with the decoder.
    Pete
     
  11. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I'm a big fan of the Chinese "LaisDCC" decoders, usually 3 sellers at least of these on Ebay, all around a 'tenner' and I (and others on the forum) have found them to be excellent in all respects, there's a comprehensive 16 page downloadable manual online, the decoders themselves are small compared to some, but don't bother with 'Hornby' ones, as they're pretty poor in comparison. I have no connection with ANY of the retail sellers or indeed "Lais", just a satisfied user of probably around 50 of these decoders. Before you attempt to fit any decoder, make sure the loco runs smoothly and correctly on DC first, DCC will not cure any running problems, any problems, just ask and I or others will be happy to help.
    Keith.
     
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  12. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    I think that (from memory) you use the original feed wires from the loco (it’s a fixed link?) and the red and black go to these two, the orange and grey them goes to the motor as per normal. It really was a simple as that.
     
  13. mikejh

    mikejh Full Member

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    I couldn’t agree more I have in more than thirty locos all with Laisdcc chips installed and I have had only one not work sent it back and they replaced it without question, plus one I shorted out which was my fault. I am not into sound so they are a very cheap solution.

    This is where I get mine from

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laisdcc-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649



    Mike
     
  14. mikejh

    mikejh Full Member

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    Just remembered I didn’t sent it back I just emailed them the problem and they sent me a replacement without question.

    Mike
     
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  15. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Thanks Guys

    I will order some LaisDCC decoders and give them a try.
    After all what could possibly go wrong?

    Cheers
    Pete
     
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  16. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    So, other than now being out of stock, the picture they use (unless it’s generic) shows two leads coming out the other end? Is this for a stay alive capacitor? Because it doesn’t say in the write up description? (Unless I missed it)
     
  17. mikejh

    mikejh Full Member

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    Andy_Sollis and jakesdad13 like this.
  18. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Me too, very quick service, cheap post cost, what's not to like!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

    Keith.
     
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  19. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    If the loco you are DCC converting is "DCC Ready", then all that's needed is to unplug the DC board and plug in the DCC decoder. Normally, pin 1 is marked as such on the socket, and you need to ensure that pin 1 of the decoder (either harness or 'direct fit') matches this. If the loco is not "DCC ready", then the red wire of the decoder goes to the right hand pickup (as seen looking from the 'cab' of the loco), black wire to the left pickup. output wires, orange goes to the motor terminal which had the red wire from the pickup connected to it, grey wire to the other motor terminal. Should the motor run the wrong way, simply reverse the motor connections (you can also do this by changing the 'CV's' in the decoder, but it's easier to just reverse the motor connections). Be aware that Hornby have, on occasion, 'cocked-up' the wiring connections of "DCC Ready" models, resulting in destruction of the decoder, not trying to alarm you, and the few 'mistakes' have been on fairly recent models, but if you have a 'tender drive' model, then it's VERY unlikely that this would affect you. It's easily got around by removing Hornby's socket and wiring, then soldering the decoder wiring harness directly, also a useful dodge if space is tight inside a particular model. Regarding the remaining connections to a decoder with function switching, blue is the 'common positive' for white, yellow, green or purple (on a 4 function decoder), but the output is around 12 volts (depending on DCC track voltage) so if you wish to use LED's for perhaps cab lighting on a diesel, then you will need to connect a resistor of around 1000 ohms in the positive leg of the LED for EVERY individual LED, or "POP" goes the LED! Most of the "Lais" decoders also have provision for "Stay-Alive" connection, the actual "Stay-Alive" available from the decoder retailers, and these connections normally come out of the decoder at the opposite end to the other connections and are blue and black respectively, as per the wiring on the "Stay-Alive's". Speaking personally, I've used 6 pin, direct and harnessed 8 pin, and 21 pin direct Lais decoders without problems, so if you go for these, then it's worth downloading the Lais "User Manual" from their site (It's in 'Proper' English, not 'Pidgin English!) as it can be useful. I'm hoping that Lais will eventually develop DCC Sound decoders, which would push the price of rival makes down somewhat.
    Finally, at the risk of 'waffling-on' somewhat, if your tender drive 'Pancake motor' is past it's best, then a CD tray drive motor is the usual replacement, although only if you are converting to DCC, as these motors are only 5 volt ones, unless you use a resistor in series with the motor. There is a guy on Ebay (UK) from Finland, who sells the conversion motor cheaply with full fitting instructions if you can't get one elsewhere. Hope this is of some help, anything else you need to ask, then I or others will be happy to help.
    Keith.
     
  20. pgcroc

    pgcroc Full Member

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    Hi Keith

    Many thanks for the information.
    I have already downloaded the Lais manual.
    The 4F is analogue at the moment.
    Unfortunately I have to go abroad in a few days for a couple of months so this is now on the back burner.

    Thank you everybody who has helped on this.
    I will go through this again when I return.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
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