Golden Arrow Models Maunsell diesel shunter.

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Keith M, Jun 29, 2017.

  1. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Since it comes (just!) within my modelling era of late 50's/early 60's, I decided I'd have a crack at a couple of resin bodied models to get some experience of working with this medium before I start with my "GT3" model (also from "Golden Arrow"). It uses the Bachmann Class 08 shunter chassis with some modifications, so having obtained a suitable 'victim' cheaply (as it's not DCC ready), I removed the body, got rid of the small circuit board at the radiator end, and wired in a small LaisDCC decoder, which fitted nicely where the circuit board had been removed from. This is the starting point of this build.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  2. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Some cleaning up of the 'flash' was done to both body and sundry other parts before assembling the body shell, using superglue for speed, rather than waiting for Araldite to go off. Once assembled, some small areas needed an application of filler and cleaning/sanding after it set.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  3. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Inside the body shell, I decided to add a bulkhead between the cab and motor area, mainly because the body had a little too much 'spread' of the body sides, Gluing a bulkhead in held the body sides in sufficiently to make it a good and closer fit to the chassis, with the added advantage that the motor now can't be seen through the cab windows. At this stage, after pre-drilling holes for handrails, the body is now ready for primer spraying, but as I use 'rattle cans' of car body primer which is a bit indiscriminate with it's wide fan spray, I need to do this outside (if it ever stops raining!), so this is presently on 'hold'. The chassis has had some modifications in the meantime, cutting a small amount off the running plate and under cab buffer beam to allow the new cab to sit onto the chassis, and a length of 40 thou square section plastic rod glued down each side of the running plate to bring it out to match the new body sides.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  4. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    This pic of the modified chassis hopefully shows the cut down rear buffer beam (and a small amount removed from sandbox tops), to clear the new cab. You may also be able to see the added sections to the running plate, widening it to suit the body, and also the supplied new cab steps, all fitted and painted.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  5. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    At the front end, this is where the original DC circuit board was fitted, now both it and the two bosses to which it was mounted have been removed and replaced by the DCC decoder, which occupies about the same space without causing any difficulty in fitting the new body. Since this pic was taken, connecting rods have been black painted and a further coat of BR green given to the modified running boards. This leaves it now ready to accept the new body after painting.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  6. Ron

    Ron Full Member

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    Looking good Keith, are adding wasp stripes or was that a later period?
     
  7. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I downloaded a photo of one of these shunters in the early 60's (they were all scrapped in 1964), and there were no wasp stripes, so maybe they never got around to painting stripes on. As a result of this, I doubt I'll bother with the stripes, Ron.
    Keith.
     
  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    It'll make a nice change from the standard 08, are you fitting lights ?

    Paul
     
  9. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    Very nicely done, Keith.

    I must add a bulkhead to mine, now you've planted the idea!

    Mine has wasp stripes. At least one of the prototypes did receive the stripes, but photos of it are few and far between. Let's face it: they spent most of their lives sans stripes!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I did sit mine down on its chassis a little better after these photos.

    I like your idea of sticking the cab steps to the chassis ... much more robust than mine stuck under the body, although I did drill some fine wire though to reinforce the joint.

    Two photos linked here with wasp stripes:

    http://www.railuk.info/gallery/notes/getimage.php?id=1913

    https://mikemorant.smugmug.com/keyword/15203/
     
  10. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I won't bother fitting lights, purely because the body is quite a tight fit around the motor so very little room to fit LED's. I hope to be able to paint the cab internally and fit a driver, part of the reason for the bulkhead. Can I ask how you glazed yours, Jeff?
    Keith.
     
  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Keith - you can get liquid glass, bit like a clear PVA.

    http://pufferwillies.co.uk/uk2ecommerce/product/carr_s_c1201_liquid_glass_-_window_film_/

    Paul
     
  12. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    Hi Keith: For the side windows I glued clear plastic behind the windows using Krystal Klear as the glue. For the cab end windscreens and angled windows I carefully cut some clear plastic to size and flush glazed them, again using the Krystal Klear to glue them in. Finally, for those piddly little bonnet end cab windows, I used the Krystal Klear itself as the glazing medium, much as Paul has suggested.

    I will only use these glazing liquids for very small windows; the larger the window, the less convincing the effect. They do make very good glues for the clear plastic glazing materials, though, because they dry clear so hide any accidental smears and also fill any gaps almost invisibly.
     
  13. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Since the rain has now ceased, I've been able to nip outside with rattle can at the ready, and give the body a couple of quick thin coats of white primer. As is often the case, it also shows up the odd blemish thats not otherwise seen before, so a touch of filler and a bit more sanding is called for before a final primer coat, then on to the finish coats. Here's the body just loosely fitted onto the chassis without any fixings, and as you can see, it's a snug fit!

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  14. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    This is the pic of one of these shunters I found on the internet, taken apparently in 1960, and as can be seen, no wasp stripes are apparent, (or lights either) although it's so filthy that if they are indeed present, they're not visible in this photo.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  15. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Apologies for gate crashing the thread but congratulations to SR man for picture of the week with his shunter photo above.

    Also to Keith for a very interesting thread.

    Carry on gents :tophat:
     
  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    SRman congrats on POTW, and the same to Keith for a really interesting thread - I've not tried a resin kit - yet :avatar:
     
  17. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I've not had a lot of spare time over the last few days, but have now completed the build of this shunter. I was going to pick out the handrails in white paint as many Class 08's are now, but the pic I have seems to show the handrails in body colour, so BR loco green it is.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  18. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I also replaced the Class 08 front steps with the SR pattern ones supplied with the kit, adding the front handrails also. Transfers were some 'Fox' ones I had on stock, cab glazing using clear cellophane. As has been said, although these were the forerunners of the Class 08, they are sufficiently different to make one worthwhile building, and I can't fault the "Golden Arrow" model as a kit. Now for the next one, something a little different, the "Golden Arrow" Class G16. I shall be weathering this loco at a later date, probably do a batch at one go.
    Keith.

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  19. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

    Well done Keith
     
  20. SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    That's beautifully finished, Keith; it would be almost a shame to weather it!

    I agree about the handrails being body coloured; I came to the same conclusion with mine after scouring all the photos I could find. Don't forget to add the handrails on the bonnet side doors too.

    I did the cab roof area on mine in grey, but it was difficult to determine under the grime in the black and white photos as to exactly what colour that should be, and where it should end.

    There are also a couple of small (fiddly!) handrails on top of the exhaust area, near the ladder, which I haven't yet added to my model either.
     

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