Highland Railway 7 ton timber wagon - Type L

I purchased 6 sets of Dapol split poked wheels (7A-000-007) from Hattons @ £8.50 a set, I would have bought more but that was all they had.

The bushes are 3.2mm diameter x 4.6mm long, I need to find a set of Slaters wheels to measure thier bearing bushes, as I may need to create slider blocks to suit each type of bearing.

I will make separate oil or grease boxes which will then be stuck over the slide block (don't know the correct name).

As mentioned at the start of the chassis section, I intend to make 3 versions, a rigid chassis, a compensated chassis (one fixed axle, one rocking axle) and a fully sprung chassis - using a moving slider block and steel wire as a leaf spring.

Paul

 

Found a set of Slaters 3'7" Standard Coach wheels - I'm assuming the top hat bearings will be the same as thier wagon wheel top hat bearings - may live to regret that ......

As can be seen the bearing OD is 2.4mm, and length is 4.8mm, however 0.2 mm of that is the flange of the top hat.OD of the tophat is 3.8

And there's more - the stub axle for the Slaters wheel is 1.6mm OD by 5.8 to 6.0mm long, The Dapol wheel stub axle is 1.8mm OD by 4.8 to 5.0 mm long.

For those thinking of internal compensation units the Slaters axle is a nominal 3.0 - 3.1 mm the Dapol 2.8 to 2.9 mm.

The back to back for both was a average 29 mm The Slaters giving 29.0 to 29.1, and the Dapol 28.9 to 29.0.

So I think I will produce two different slide blocks, the Dapol version having a closed end to prevent any glue from entering the open bearing when the Oil / Grease box is added, and the Slaters version with an open end to allow air to escape when the closed end top hat bearing is inserted. Will also make it easy to tell them apart.

I have a feeling I have some Peco wheels somewhere - why do I feel this could be a can o worms

Paul

 

A little more progress

The fully sprung W iron



From the inside



A piece of wire provides the springing - diameter to be determined by the scientific suck it and see method

Comprises of 3 parts

W iron



Sprung hornblock - I need to build some slop into this to allow movement, but it slides in from the top



and the piece of spring wire, which is threaded through, possibly 1 piece per side.

We'll see how well I've thought this through, with a couple of clicks on the view buttons I should get the Fixed version



mmmm seems to work.

Paul

 

Forgot to mention the spring mechanism is covered by the underframe

 

Having a go at the axle box



Alignment is via a spigot



with a corresponding socket in the axle box



It's getting there

Paul

 

Ok finally ready to print

I have been avoiding using my mono, as I have a polarizer film and a protective glass screen on order. I've been getting weird results, so decided on a full deep clean of the build plate, vat and screen. The build plate cleaned with IPA, then Acetone, a tin minute wash in the ultrasonic cleaner, followed by another acetone and IPA wash. Now just waiting for the screen and polariser.

So the print was done on the Photon



Enough bits to do 2 wagons - and a estimated print time 4h30m

Prints were good apart from all the horblocks failed, I'd only used medium supports.

Blow it I can always clean the Mono X again

This time I can fit enough bits for 5 wagons plus extra hornblocks for the initial prints from the Photon.



Estimated print time 1h30min - actual time 1h58m

Washed and ready to cure - but that'll be in the morning as it's now 2am.

Paul

 

Hi Andy

Currently I'm using Anycubic Craftsman resin, but have issues with all resins, IPA and Nitrile gloves, basically I'm knackered.

I've overcome the issues by using cotton gloves as liners Amazon link
I think part of the issue was my hands sweating in the gloves the cotton gloves help stop this. I also have some of the cotton sleeves as well.

Remeber the IPA has disolved uncured resin so any contact with the wash will contaminate your skin, but now it can easily pass through any natural protection your skin had due to the action of the IPA.

The cotton gloves are washable, and out of the 20 pairs I purchased 2 years ago all are still ok (17 pairs are still in the packet).

Paul

 

Assembled a couple of W irons

Using 0.45 brass wire for the springs - I didn't have any steel wire

And on the wagon

To locate them in place I've knocked up a bracket in 123D



And set it off to print



Approx 3hrs to print.

There is enough to do the 6 wagon bodies I've already printed, if they work as intended they will become part of the standard W iron mount, with either a sprung or fixed hornblock, with a modified version for the compensated version

Paul

 

I think the next time I'm in the town, a visit for guitar strings is required, 0.16 will be a good place to start.

I think spotify and "Another one bites the dust " may be more apt.

Paul

 

For the axle box split it down to building blocks, and add bits to it until looks the part.

Paul