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Highland Railway 7 ton timber wagon - Type L

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, Aug 11, 2021.

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  1. Sep 8, 2021 #81
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    I have the Eco resin, not overly impressed, the odour is a bit less, but the prints felt greasy after washing in water, so I ended up cleaning in IPA, that cured the greasy feeling, but the IPA didn't look right after. And for a 50% hike in price I'll not be getting any more. Don't forget apart from being water soluble, it's still basically the same resin components that are toxic to humans and the environtment.

    On a side note, I've been having a mare with the Craftsman resin on my Mono X, but on the Photon it prints beautifully.

    Paul
     
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  2. Sep 8, 2021 #82
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The frame works


    The W irons aren't glued in as those are the hornblocks for top hat bearings.

    I have produced a set hornblocks for the 3.2mm Dapol bushes, but need opening out for the bush to easily fit - I have a 3mm reamer, but too tight. I've ordered up some 3.2 & 3.3 mm drills.

    Now I could just open up the hole in Fusion 360, however I have a cunning plan :facepalm: :faint:

    When I printed dummy wheels for the Passenger tank, the wheels were good but the flanges were useless. So I have drawn up a wheel with a 3mm thick flange, which I will machine to the correct thickness (or at least I will try)

    upload_2021-9-8_15-20-53.png

    upload_2021-9-8_15-21-29.png

    And approx 4 hours to print on the Photon

    upload_2021-9-8_15-22-39.png

    I will be using a 2mm dia stainless steel axle, and a piece of 3mm dia OD brass tube as a bearing (side wall = 0.45mm thick, giving a 2.1mm ID hole).

    Brass tube on order, steel rod arrived yesterday afternoon.

    I have an old toy lathe I will try and turn the flanges with, if this works I will have substantially reduced the cost of my wagons.

    I don't know hoe feasable the printed wheels will be, but its worth a try.

    Paul
     
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  3. Sep 8, 2021 #83
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    And the prints look like


    Now just got to find that lathe.

    If I find it quick enough I'll try turning 1 cured and another uncured, I'm hoping there will be no difference.

    I may also need to thicken the rear face of the wheels, wheel see (note the pun - that's the nearest you're getting to a joke).

    Paul
     
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  4. Sep 9, 2021 #84
    Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I suspect that what you will find is that the resin wheels are great gatherers/depositors of dirt on the track.
    You may have more success with printed inserts and steel tyres.
     
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  5. Sep 9, 2021 #85
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Having done what I could to do away with nylon wheels and traction tyres on the OO layout, to me this is a dead end. All the above did was create debris than then struck to the driving wheels/pickups… when I worked in the model shop, I had a number of mums and dads would bring locos in for cleaning that had bred their own traction tyres. And most of it was debris picked up from nylon wheels on wagons and coaches and tenders and other traction tyres as they wore down.
    Since eliminating this from my own stock, I’ve found I very rarely need to clean the track, other than where it tarnishes when it runs outside.
    So unless your static displaying, I’d give this a miss Paul..

    Andy
     
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  6. Sep 9, 2021 #86
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    On the other hand, my O gauge stock lives in boxes, and will probably only get set free at exhibitions, so all track and wheels will get cleaned before each use, and with a potential saving of over 90% over the cost of normal wheels it still remains an option for me at the moment.

    Steel tyres would be nice, but I haven't seen anyone listing them for sale.

    Paul
     
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  7. Sep 9, 2021 #87
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    If you have a lathe, why not turn your own?
     
  8. Sep 9, 2021 #88
    Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I have just priced up a form tool for cutting the tyre profile for making our own tyres and the only one I could find was £62.00 plus delivery
     
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  9. Sep 9, 2021 #89
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    :avatar: as posted earlier it's a toy lathe

    [​IMG]

    Wood, plastic, alluminium and with great care soft brass, ferrous metals dream on :avatar:

    Paul
     
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  10. Sep 9, 2021 #90
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Sounds good when I say I have a unimat tho' :avatar:
     
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  11. Sep 9, 2021 #91
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Why does this forum only have a like button and not a “Laugh out loud”
    Button?? :giggle::giggle::giggle:

    what you need is an Arduino and a big stepper motor, a gearbox and …..:avatar:
     
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  12. Oct 1, 2021 #92
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    It's been a while, but finally got around a bit more work on these wagon wheels

    A second batch was printed with a deeper rear flange - just in case the flange wasn't deep enough when I machine them - turned out it wasn't needed, but that gives me more wheel sets.


    Got the lathe set up, and I'm machining from the rear of the flange



    a few mins later


    I'm using 2mm tool steel for the shaft, with a bearing made from 3mm OD brass tube with a 0.45mm wall thickness giving an ID of 2.1mm. This will be cut into 5mm lengths which will fit into the hornblocks,


    Just need to build a jig for axle assembly.

    Paul
     
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  13. Oct 1, 2021 #93
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Brilliant!!! :thumbs::thumbs::tophat::tophat:
     
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  14. Oct 1, 2021 #94
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I may try machining the stub axle to see if it works.

    Also started on the brake gear

    Lever Bracket

    upload_2021-10-1_23-45-26.png

    Brake lever arm

    upload_2021-10-1_23-46-29.png

    Next up the brake shoe, but that will be tomorrow

    Paul
     
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  15. Oct 2, 2021 #95
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Forget all this sweep rotate nonsense, sketches rule OK

    Using the drawing and axle position as a center (luckily marked on the drawing) I sketched up circles for the brake block inner and outer dimentions, another to represent the metal block plate (someone will know the correct name). A rectangle was added give the overall size of the brake shoe.

    upload_2021-10-2_15-11-38.png

    And now the magic, with the finished sketch, moving the mouse over the sections the shape of the brake shoe was highlighted, click to select and then extrude

    upload_2021-10-2_15-18-17.png

    The rest was just added in the normal way

    And I came up with this

    upload_2021-10-2_15-20-9.png

    upload_2021-10-2_15-20-49.png

    and in place

    upload_2021-10-2_15-22-15.png

    and on the build plate

    upload_2021-10-2_15-30-52.png

    Just the J hanger to go

    Paul
     
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  16. Oct 2, 2021 #96
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    And :drums:

    The J hanger

    upload_2021-10-2_16-6-47.png

    I've added a flange to the rear that can be filed down for fetteling

    upload_2021-10-2_16-8-34.png

    I think these will be a bit delicate, so I'll print a few extras.

    upload_2021-10-2_16-16-33.png

    Estimated 4 hour print on the Photon

    Paul
     
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  17. Oct 2, 2021 #97
    Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul,

    Pretty much identical to the way I did it with a small exception. I already had a sketch of the W Iron and Brake V which I used as the back ground and then drew the brake rigging as a second sketch. I have used a similar method for the D4 Bolster (8' 6" wheel base), and the Bouch Brake, A similar method will be used for the V1/2 Brake when I get around to it.

    Mossy
     
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  18. Oct 3, 2021 #98
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I have a simple and maybe daft question, is the brake gear on one side only, and if so is the brake lever only on one side ?

    Told you it was simple

    Paul
     
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  19. Oct 3, 2021 #99
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Think it should be both sides. You may need a photo as reference.

    now, try looking at a Vacuum brakes wagon that has 2 shoes per wheel (4 per axle) and work that out for the linkage! I’m still stretching my head short of going and looking under one!
     
  20. Oct 3, 2021 #100
    Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul,

    There isn't any easy answer to your simple question.

    Leaving out 8 shoe claps brakes, the North Eastern went in rough chronological order.

    One brake shoe.
    Two brake shoes working on diagonally opposite wheels.
    Two shoes working on the same side.
    Four shoes two per side.

    One left hand brake lever.
    One left and one right hand lever - both on the same end of a wagon.
    Two left hand levers, diagonally opposite.

    At grouping over 80% of wagon stock had the left and right hand lever configuration, regardless of the RCH standard of a few years earlier.

    So stir that mix in any order you want. If the Highland were as random as the NER, I think you need photos at the date your modelling in order to get the correct brake configuration. Best of luck cos it's not dissimilar to search for rocking horse droppings.

    Mossy
     
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