Highland Railway 7 ton timber wagon - Type L

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, Aug 11, 2021.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    Thanks for that, the only photos I can find (Tatlow's Highland Railway Carriages and Wagons., I think was used to produce the drawing, so shows the same side :facepalm:

    Just to make things awkward, the rebuilt single bolster LMS version of the wagon appears to have a brake on each side - I can see the brake shoe on the diagonally opposite corner. But not on the other photo's. Also aparent is the almost custom nature of the brake lever, from the straight one in the drawing to multiple bends to clear axle boxes, stantions etc, etc :facepalm:.

    A few issues on the first print - only two of the brake assemblies printed correctly, 6 out of 8 J hangers printed correctly, all the mounts printed, and I thought all of the brake levers had printed - more of that in a bit.

    I redid the supports for the Brake Assembly, as even the ones that printed the supports had started to fail on the upper beams, and the base was curved towards the ends.

    The base was fully supported with heavy supports with two at each end and a further 5 staggered along the base. A heavy support for the brake shoe, and 14 medium supports added to the upper beams, the contact size was increased from 0.2 to 0.3, and the penetration also increased to 0.3 and finally the contact shape changed to cone from sphere.

    upload_2021-10-3_17-6-26.png

    Another print was started off - thats when I noticed the brake levers didn't look correct.

    On this print all the brake assemblies printed - however the brake levers were the same - no suprise, also several fails of the mount and J hangers, looks like a nick in the fep, as there was indentation on the fep, and worse, cured resing on the screen. Fortunately these were printed on the Photon which has a glass screen at the build surface and the resin scraped off with a razor blade. The Mono X doesn't have a glass screen as standard, but Chitu systems has recently released tempered glass screens as an addon for the Mono X - and I am the proud owner 2 packs (there are two screens per pack) but have yet to fit them hence all the prints on the slower Photon.

    The top surface had a series of steps, the lower side was a series of curves. Again the medium supports had detached on the underside, the Heavy supports holding the print in place giving the wavy effect. The steps were caused by the taper .

    Here is the original setup

    upload_2021-10-3_16-58-28.png

    The following was changed

    The brake lever was rotated 90 degrees to give a constant thickness, then angled 5 degrees to try and cut down the print length - this may need increasing.
    As the hole for the pivot now runs vertically, 5 medium supports were placed around the hole, with a heavy support just behind it, plus the number of heavy supports increased from 5 to 9.

    upload_2021-10-3_16-57-5.png

    Test print started, on the second Photon, as I have still to replace the FEP.

    Interestingly (for me at least), Chitu systems have also released a Mono LCD conversion kit for the Elegoo Mars, Mars Pro and Anycubic Photon for about £26, not much dearer than a standard RGB LCD screen replacement ....... mmmmmmmm think I know what my next purchase may be :facepalm:

    Paul
     
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  2. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Mossy

    I'll maybe do a couple of dual shoe (opposite corners) and the other 4 as single shoes just shake it up a bit.

    Paul
     
  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    still some stepping, so as a test to run overnight I have set up 15 & 30 degree which will take approx 6 hours to print.

    upload_2021-10-4_0-37-49.png

    Paul
     
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  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    and the results are in

    Initial print


    Note the wavy underside - on the right hand side the supports have failed, and printed pivot hole on the righthand side is present.

    5 degree angle


    Still have the wavy underside but not as bad again some of the medium supports have failed.
    Although you can't see the hole on the top surface, all that is there is a dimple the hole is filled in.

    15 degree


    Still a hint of the wavy lines in the photo, but in reality a quick pass with an emery board and there away, and there on the iside face so can't be seen.
    The hole is still filled.

    30 degree


    Wavy surface is gone, hole still filled in, but a 6 hour print time is a little restrictive. However with a little planning of the builds, the brake levers could become part of the body print which would mask the print time.

    I will also rotate the pivot hole back being horizontal - drilling these is a PITA, and thats before there cured and become harder and more brittle.

    Paul
     
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  5. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul,

    I have been printing all my brake gear vertically with a combination of medium supports on the centre lines and light supports around the edges.
    Long rod like items laid horizontally with lots of support.
    Touch wood so far there have been no failures and all the different items look fine. Have you tried a simple vertical print?

    Mossy
     
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  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Mossy

    I've not tried a vertical print on these, and as I'm using the Photons at the moment, as the brake lever is 60mm long I'd be looking at a 12hr print.

    On a larger surface that wavyness would show up as that melted pock marked effect.

    On more organic models figures, clothing etc, the changing surface texture helps produce really detailed models, smooth and flat surfaces are it's achilees heal, we just have to work with it.

    Paul
     
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  7. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul,

    I lay long rods like that horizontal to the build plate, not vertical to the build plate.
    The long brake rods for the Bouch are 65mm long and came out pretty well, bits of pocking, but that was where I was lazy with the supports, another lesson learned.
    To suppress bowing I have started curing before releasing the supports, which is more difficult, but really just needs care.

    Mossy
     
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  8. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I would suggest that if your time scale is pre 1930, then you would have no problem getting away with brakes on one side of the wagon. If post 1930 LMS, then I would think you need brakes both sides but working independently - I.E no brake cross shaft between them which would in effect put the brakes on on one side but pull them off on the other. I doubt that a former Highland wagon would have survived long enough to be fitted with Morton cam brakes which would have a cross rod.
     
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  9. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    For the much later wagons, the dual brake levers were connected but obviously one needed to go the other way, so uses a crank and a slip? So it activates but isn’t locked by the other handle being pulled?

    B7F4720F-6B80-4611-81A8-E2A108DC0765.jpeg
    As you can see the slotted arrangement allows the other side to be pulled without pulling against the other lever being locked off..

    5CCD69DE-8A5B-4189-841F-EAEAC667A2DE.jpeg

    here is the one for the other lever, top left, which runs along a crank due to the length of the wagon.

    hope this helps..


    Now if anyone can explain to me how the linkage from this main shaft pulls and pushes the inside and outside set of pads on each axle I’ll be in your debt as I can’t fathom it!

    andy
     
  10. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Andy,

    Not exactly the same but I would bet the arrangement for pushing/pulling of the brake shoes is similar in this drawing.
    LNER Brakes drawing.jpg
     
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  11. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Cheers Rob.

    (Just looking at the files)
    Andy
     
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  12. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul,

    I agree with Rob. The NER had a cross shaft, but they used both a left and right hand brake lever on the same end of the wagon, so the rotational force was in the same direction regardless of which lever was used. Cunning what.

    Mossy
     
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  13. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The photo's I've managed to find, only show one brake shoe for the HR (YES!!!!) and the second shoe diagonally oposite brake shoes are on the ones re-built by the LMS in to single bolster wagons (photo dated 1934). Fits in perfectly with Rob's explanation, thanks guys.

    Just about to start on the springs :scratchchin: :hammer::confused:

    Paul
     
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  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    First attempt at the leaf springs

    upload_2021-10-6_0-4-44.png

    24 will fit on the build plate

    upload_2021-10-6_0-5-46.png

    Approx 2 hours to print, so will see in the moring

    Paul
     
  15. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Nuts, failed print, but it was a cold night last night, and no heating on over night.

    Trying again this morning.

    Paul
     
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  16. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Were they only 3 leaf springs? It doesn't seem many or have you compromised?
     
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  17. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Yep should have been 4 leaf, so a bit of a compromise - overall profile is the same tho.


    Just placed in position


    Paul
     
  18. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Now I always intended to do a fixed W iron assembly

    So here is the tweaked assembly

    upload_2021-10-7_12-0-47.png

    Now just need to print them, along with a slightly modified brake assembly

    upload_2021-10-7_12-14-42.png

    Where I have reduced the size of the base, and beefed up the joins by applying fillets to the hanger base connection.

    Paul
     
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  19. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Oh boy do I love sketches

    Next job up was the number plates

    I measured up the name plate size - an elipse 10.8 x 4.6 mm

    I created a new project, and then a sketch, created a box 10.8 x 4.6 with the center placed at the origin.
    then an elipse with the center defined at the origin, the first axis at 10.8mm, the second axis was defined by clicking on the 4.6 side of the box.
    For clarity the box was then deleted.
    Now using the offset tool a line was created 0.3mm on the inside (use -0.3 in the popup box)
    Another box was drawn to mark the position of the securing bolts and end of the text.
    Where the box intersected with the inner elipse the end parts were removed

    upload_2021-10-8_1-8-43.png

    Using the remaining parts of the inner curves the text was added to follow the curves path.
    Finally another box created in the center with the bottom edge used as the path for the number.
    and the sketch is now finished

    The elipse was extruded t0 0.5mm thick (I had to select all the parts)
    The two bolts were extruded to 0.8mm thick, and a 0.3 fillet applied to the top edge.
    The text was extruded to 0.7mm thick.
    Finally a 0.2mm web was added to create a rim.

    upload_2021-10-8_1-18-52.png

    So why am I so excited about the sketch feature.

    If I double click on the sketch - the edit sketch function opens, and by double clicking on the number the text edit box opens

    upload_2021-10-8_1-13-45.png

    By just typing in a new number - 701

    upload_2021-10-8_1-23-6.png

    click OK for the text edit, and finish sketch. As this is the first action in the project, Fusion 360 automatically updates the timeline and the completes the actions so we get an instant new number plate.

    upload_2021-10-8_1-26-9.png

    Each number plate is then exported as an .stl file for the 3D printer.

    I have created 6 numbers 701, 765, 813, 853, 940 & 942 - the number range for these wagons are 697 - 768 & 843 - 942. The numbers were selected as no individual number is used more than twice, for the plates it doesn't matter, but the number also has to be placed on both ends as a transfer.

    Next up to create the print file - but that a job for the morning

    upload_2021-10-8_1-53-13.png

    Ah blow it it only took another 10 mins, and the print has now started, and they should be ready in the morning - well after I get up.

    Paul
     
  20. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    As usual Paul,
    This is just amazing what you have learnt and achieved.......:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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