Highland Railway Drummond 0-4-4T Passenger Tank

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, Jan 11, 2019.

  1. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul

    Isn't it amazing the developments in IT software over the last 40 years. When I started in IT in the early 80's a PC was just a figment of someones imagination.
    The first "mainframe" I worked on had a 64k memory, so extremely small and highly efficient programs weren't just nice they were required.
    We had to work on a rule of .5 sec from keyboard lock to keyboard unlock, if your design couldn't do that it required a total re-think, something that current developers wouldn't even think about let alone grasp.

    Mossy
     
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  2. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    layer height 0.025mm
    Bottom Layer count 8
    Exposure time 1.4 sec
    Bottom exposure time 45 sec
    light off delay 2sec
    Bottom light off delay 2 sec
    Bottom lift distance 10 mm
    Lift 10mm
    Bottom lift speed 180 mm/min
    lifting speed 180mm/min
    retract speed 240mm/min
    In Chitcubox - (exposuer is 2 sec for 0.05mm)
     
  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    Try lowering the Bottom lift speed, to give a slower peel - try 60mm/min, it's only for 8 layers, but may be enough to make a difference.
    Or leave the middle empty unless you have a big raft across the whole area.

    Paul
     
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  4. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I will have a look soon again.
     
  5. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Not a lot of progress lately, as I am waiting for some gear sets and flywheels from Roxey, who in turn are waiting for back orders from Markits.

    I've done a little on the Painting side of things

    Drummond II period





    Cummings period





    I always wanted a BR and or LMS Period 2 / 3 version, these however required a riveted smokebox.

    So .........

    upload_2021-6-16_11-59-13.png

    I'm trying to print this at 0.025 layer height, and rotated to 45 degrees in both the X and Y directions, the Z axis was rotaed to fit the model within the build plate

    upload_2021-6-16_12-1-29.png

    Only 18 hours to go - or less if I spot that the print has failed.

    Paul
     
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  6. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    They look really good for “home grown” Paul.
     
  7. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    As Andy says, they look great, well done.

    Pete.
     
  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks guys

    I'll be interested to see how the underside prints out, as printing flat or just tilted in one plane seems to give a slightly melted look to the underside.
    And also the surface finish on a 0.025 layer height printed body.

    9h42m left to go .......

    Paul
     
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  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    6h30m to go

    I have noticed that the solid print areas for each layer is smaller, which may allow me to reduce the amount of supports, or reduce the thickness of the supports, without the model breaking free.

    Paul
     
  10. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    18h 45m later


    And we have a very happy camper

    This has only had a wash in the Ultrasonic cleaner





    Hopefully there will be minimal cleanup from the support removal, but the quality of the print is amazing, especially the cab and bunker, on the previous prints - 15 degree print angle there was layer lines visible, that even after light sanding were still visible


    And the 45 degree print the top edge of the bunker was pitted - which I never could get to take filler etc.

    And the sides look so smooooooooth, with no layer lines showing

    Time to carefully remove the supports, wash in IPA then cure it up.

    Paul
     
  11. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Went to do a print this morning..

    my FEP has a hole in the middle…
    Thankfully only a little dribble on the screen protector which wiped up. But I now need to do my first swap..

    may not be today as have to go work for a few hours for a training session. Do I need to do a ref print or should it remain the same?


    The loco body looks great. Which material have you used for this?
     
  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The new FEP shouldn't effect the cure times. Not a difficult job to do, just don't drop any tools on to your newly fitted and tensioned FEP sheet - just don't ask :headbanger:

    I've used the White Anycubic Eco UV resin - the water washable stuff. Not sure if i'll buy more of this, I will need to do a similar print with my normal Anycubic Grey resin.

    And Murphy went for the jugular ....... :(

    I used heavy supports, and unfortunately, they were also too deep into the model, so when I tried to remove the supports (done before curing) bits broke off


    The handrails for the cab, the front window cracked, and the front came off


    As a test I used uncured resin as a glue for the front footplate, and cured it, worked great.

    More later

    Paul
     
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  13. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I'm going to give the body a light sanding and then spray the smokebox, with primer then matt black to see if the rivet detail looks ok. If it does look ok then I will redo the supports and try another print.

    I have noticed some moire patterns on the boiler, so may carry out a few tests on the anti-aliasing settings - my current settings are

    upload_2021-6-17_20-29-21.png

    So a little research required, but you never know .........

    Paul
     
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  14. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I have yet to try the uncured resin to repair. I have the first model off the new FEP which has broken. Oddly some bits haven’t come out at all. One was even a lever frame (with some supports) and one lever has stopped missed a bit and then restarted? May be a slice issue?
     
  15. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Possibly.

    I'd re-level the buildplate, and try a known good print.

    Then we're down to the fep sheet setup - try the above first.

    Paul
     
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  16. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Looking at it, it appears to be the centre of the FEP where the failures are. Outside areas are fine. (Other than the one lever in 40 which was to the front edge due to length. )

    yes. I’ll try one of the good prints.
    Can you have a FEP too taught? You can hear the skin ping by just blowing on it.. and for the first time I can hear the ping as it pulls off with the grey. Never heard that before???
     
  17. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    You can over tension it, but it's too late now, and its better over tight than slack, and is probably the reason you are hearing the ping. The FEP will strech with use, so it will ease off itself.

    If it's just in the center then increase the lift height by a mm or two.

    With my Photon's if you don't hear the ping then the print is probably stuck to the FEP

    Paul
     
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  18. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Finally got round to trying some paint on the print.

    No cleanup apart from the rinses and sticking the front footplate back on.



    Do the rivets look ok ?

    Paul
     
  19. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Hi Paul that looks great. Just a note. I had problems with the models not separating from the FEP as the models got larger. I seem to have cured this (no pun intended)
    by using WD 40 specialist dry lube with PTFE spray. I spray a small amount onto a lint free cloth then I rubbed this onto the bottom (the inside) of the FEP sheet. It seems to stop the first layers from sticking to the FEP I did this back in February and have not needed to re coat the FEP yet. And touch wood I have not had a failed print since. I thought this maybe helpful to anyone who has a resin printer.

    Be seeing you

    Bob
     
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  20. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Bob

    I use the WD 40 PTFE as well, seems to work well.

    Paul
     

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