Highland Railway Drummond 0-4-4T Passenger Tank

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, Jan 11, 2019.

  1. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Oops. Not used anything.

    some have said about peeling a layer off, but mine seemed one sheet?
    Not sided we’re they?
     
  2. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Loco looks great!! Are the some holes on the RHS as looking at the smoke box next the rivets?
     
  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    I've not any FEP sheets with peel off layers, I have had them with glass protection & polarising sheets for the LCD screens.

    The holes by just inside the vertical rivets are for the lubricators. There is also a pair of rivets on the outside edge of the wing plates by the wheel splashers.

    Paul
     
  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Now this is not the first time I have tried to build one of these loco's.

    Over twenty years ago I started to scratch build one of these in 4mm (P4), but it never got completed.

    This is as far as I got, yesterday I did a bit of sorting - actually moving 1 pile of stuff to another location :whatever: and found my 1st attempt


    The chassis was a Bill Bedford etch.


    So ...... I wonder if a 3D print would work.

    I loaded the O gauge body into Chitubox, and scaled it to 57.14% (4/7 x 100)

    Rotated 45 degrees in both the X & Y planes, added auto supports and printed it




    And along side its O gauge big brother


    Now it needs cleaning up, but even the cab hand rails printed. It would need the bottom of the boiler removing to allow the motor / gearbox to drive the front axle.

    I think it turned out OK tho.

    Bet you weren't expecting this post :avatar:


    Paul
     
  5. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Brilliant!! :thumbs:
     
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  6. redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    You beat me to it Paul:scratchchin:
    Be seeing you
    Bob
     
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  7. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Today feels like a day I'm not going to get back.

    I'm still waiting for gears from Roxey / Markits, but decided to have a re-look at the chassis.

    Assembly is not so much difficult but awkward, mainly due to the motor mount getting in the way, and future diss-assembly would be difficult.

    Modification list
    • Split the motor mount to allow easier assembly and future maint.
    • Add the detail parts to the print
    • Make the front guard Irons
    Four hours later we have

    upload_2021-6-30_17-15-43.png

    and the motor mount top section

    upload_2021-6-30_17-18-52.png

    4 x M2 set screws will locate the motor into position - and clamp the lay shaft into position - I hope

    Now just have to print it.

    Paul
     
  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    STL's loaded into Chitubox

    2 copies used, 1 upside down and supports added to both

    upload_2021-6-30_23-54-6.png

    Estimated time to print 8h 20m

    Pics to follow tomorrow

    Paul
     
  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    NUTS

    Failed print


    There appears to be a couple of failiure points, the motor top mounts printed fine, but the chassis had a few issues, can be seen on both chassis prints at the same time.



    However one side completed so all the bits worked


    As said earlier the motor mount top printed ok


    And fits perfectly


    So, carrying out my usual procedure when ever I get this sort of errors.

    Clean vat, re-level the bed.

    Instead of opening a new bottle of Eco resin, I swapped out to the Standard Grey resin, I do have the Craftsman resin, but I'm not testing it on a 8h print before dialing in the settings.

    I'm running the same print - my Eco resin and Standard resin both use the same settings.

    Paul
     
  10. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I tried 0.025 today..

    result(s) photos to follow tomorrow!!

    and commiserations on the fail!
     
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  11. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    So first up to print at .025mm setting was the OO lever frame. And it’s fine!!

    711C82C9-D0FE-4DB1-937D-04C799B14B69.jpeg 62FE0054-0354-4902-B4FB-9876FC26156B.jpeg 02E43147-305C-44AD-8690-2BCDF0A917FD.jpeg

    not bad for a test print.

    next up was some station totems. Again in OO..

    E408D62F-B3D8-41C7-A85F-0EF715791193.jpeg 8EAD875F-D470-4AFD-A7D1-7620DDB55475.jpeg 311F6D5A-2D18-4E4A-867E-D325FFBCC7E9.jpeg
    Not so happy with the legs, may need a little file work. Also the back of one has ballooned. Not sure why?
    Hopefully Paul has more luck with his model. Andy
     
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  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    The Oakamoor name board and the ballooning, may be over exposure, see what happens if you shorten the exposure.

    Paul
     
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  13. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I suspect it’s more orientation and pulled.. the one stacked above hasn’t balloon’d.

    trying again vertical… 6hr print time! (Along with 2 other models)
     
  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Over the last week I've continued to work on the chassis

    Although the prints failed, enough of the prints were good enough for testing.

    Fitting the motor mount, I managed break one of the screw holes


    So I beefed up the socket - the highlighted area was added.

    upload_2021-7-4_13-29-13.png

    To remove the support pips from the mating surfaces I printed at 45 degrees

    Top Mount



    And the main chassis


    The top surface finish looks good


    and so does the underside

    .

    The bracing of the supports are optional, but I'd recommend it and here's why


    whatever caused the fail. the cross bracing recovered the break.

    Paul
     
  15. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I’ve had that… no idea why or where the missing layers go! So how does it restart as normally that fail is down to it sticking the FEP? :scratchchin:
     
  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The only drawback of printing these test bodies and chassis, is some of them are actually quite good models, too good to put in in the scrap bin, and I'm not a native Scot or Yorkshireman.

    But at over £70 for a set of wheels, they're always going to be lacking something ....... :scratchchin: unless ........ :idea:

    1st set of wheels - 2ft 6in 8 spoke bogie wheels, no quatering needed


    2nd set of wheels - 4ft 6in 13 spoke driving wheels


    Now these are cosmetic only, not the correct profile, but will sit on a piece of track, and allow me to build any version of the loco as a static model, for a reasonable cost.

    Paul
     
  17. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul,

    Are you suggesting Yorkshiremen are tight tut tut, we are just careful.

    But I agree the cost of loco wheels, even for an 0-4-4 is frankly ridiculous.
    Cosmetic wheels are fine for a static model, but how long before you start fiddling around to get the correct profile etc.

    Mossy
     
  18. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Nah....

    I will probably end up with 2 chassis with green wheels for the Highland Railway locos, and a black chassis that I can swap between LMS / BR bodies.

    So my options are
    HR Drummond II livery - done
    HR Cummings Livery - Done
    LMS Full Crimson Lake livery
    LMS Plain black
    BR Plain Black "British Railways"
    BR Lined Black Lion over Wheel

    Only six versions to make :whatever:

    Paul
     
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  19. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Keep life nostalgic, forget the last two :p
     
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  20. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    :avatar:
     

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