Highland Railway Drummond 0-4-4T Passenger Tank

Well folks

Finally got round to using the Craftsman Resin

I've used the Cab roof as a test print, rotated the model through 45 degrees on both the X & Y axis.
I used the Auto setting to add Light supports, these tend to be placed on the outside edges, but would not be able to hold the print. To achieve that I manually added Heady supports. Created 5 additional copies and arranged them on the build plate



Tight, but a good test .

I noticed a nick on the FEP, not all the way through, but I ain't risking it. So a new fep was fitted.

I used the standard Grey resin settings as a first attempt, and the print started.

Not all went well, one model failed to print at all - stuck to the fep, the other 5 look perfect.

The black print on the left was standard resin printed at 45 in one axis. It has been sanded, acrylic primered and painted with black acrylic and some print lines can be seen.
The grey print on the right was taken from the printer washed and supports removed. No cleanup, filing or paints added, and I can't see any print lines.

To try and make the lines more visable the lower picture has the models rotated through 90 degrees.

I am well impressed.

I did notice on the the top side of the build plate what looked like small bits in the resin, these did turn out to be soft, but I think I will filter the resin before putting into the vat.

Paul

 

Hi Andy,

I'd suggest a bit of print broke off (possibly a failed support) then got between the print and FEP. You may have even spotted it in the print.

I look at the build plate after each print, any damage to the supports or missing print then the vat gets emptied of resin through a filter.

Andy, here is the link for the last set of FEPs I purchased from Amazon 280 x 200 FEP currently £25.35 with free delivery for 10 sheets of 0.1mm FEP film.

Paul

 

Hi Andy

I must admit, for the couple of extra mins it takes to drain the tank in to my used / in use resin bottle, give it a good shake and pour back in, I now do that after any suspect prints.

Paul

 

Sorry for the delay in responding ......

I have found the Vallejo Primers work great with plastic models, and have worked as the base coat for Tamiya, Humbrol, Revel, Railmatch and Valleyo Acrylic paints.
My only issue I've had is with brass models where an etching primer would have worked better at adhering to the metal surface. It still covers well but can be chipped off.

As for spraying, it works straight out of the bottle and goes on really smooth - plenty of light coats, especially the first layer. It will blow dry with the airbrush.
For brass / nickel-silver models my new method will be a first coat of etching primer. Flatted down with very fine wet n dry, then add valleyo primer to the required finnish.

My bottle of Grey primer is over three years old, and recently it started to clog the airbrush. I needed to pass the paint through a strainer, and has been good since.

Paul