Improving, hopefully, insulfrog set track points.

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by jakesdad13, Mar 9, 2020.

  1. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    This is how I improved some Hornby and one Peco 00 gauge, set track points.
    It is a fairly simple procedure using a dremel type mini drill, razor saw and soldering iron, a 15watt with a smallish tip to get between the sleepers from underneath. It does cause a bit of melting to the under side plastic but once laid it can't be seen.
    The Hornby point.

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    Underside.
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    Not very good photo but where the switch rail is connected to the points V rails is buried under the sleepers can just be seen to right of centre as a lighter image, the upper connection is just under the surface, and the lower is deeper underneath.
    I used my Dremel with a slitting disc to cut through the upper connection and partly through the lower without going to far so as to break through. Next I used a dental rasp to finish cutting the lower connection.

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    Not a very good image sorry.
    I then cut through the web between the switch rails and the two frog rails and joined the switch and stock rail with a couple of short bits of brass wire, and wired the two frog rails together for the polarity switch.

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    Sorry it appears that I forgot to take a photo of the wire connecting the rails but it was where the web is cut in the above photo.

    I have wired the stock rails for the polarity switch and including the power supply for the point.

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    It appears I did take a photo of the link wires on the switch/stock rails!

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    The green wire connecting the frog rails that will be connected to the polarity switch. This is the Peco point, its frog connections are easier to separate, as they are two wires on the surface.

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    And the final result, There are 5 points in total to re-lay, so my next job is making a control panel so I can wire it all up.

    Finally, a photo of a pair of tweezers with ceramic tips, they are great for holding small parts and wire as they don't get solder on them. Highly recommended!

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    Thats all for now, cheers, Pete.
     

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  2. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Good explanation Pete.
    Does connecting the two frog rails improve the performance of the point ? I ask this as I would suspect that the individual rails would be connected to the following rails, giving ample power supply to these rails. If you were to replace the plastic frog itself, I can understand. I have added wires to each rail coming from the V and connecting them to the stock rails, which improves performance and not requiring a switch to change polarity.


    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  3. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Gary, the way I have done it gives direct power to all the rails without relying on the points switch rails making the power connection, an unreliable method as the points get older and dirty. The points rely on making contact via blades touching either a sprung rubbing plate on the Hornby point, one of which had fallen off on one set of points, had this happened when laid and ballasted would have been a nightmare to sort out.
    The Peco point rely's on the stock blade making contact with the switch blade only and if some dirt or ballast glue got on either where they contact. Cleaning it has in my experience been a PITA.
    The only part where I couldn't improve things is where the switch rails pivot as it is a rivet type connection, I suppose I could wire them together but there isn't much room.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
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  4. mikejh

    mikejh Full Member

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    I used to have some peco insulfrog points on my layout that I modified very similar to yours the only difference my dropper wires where at the same point as the two link wires. Now been replaced with electrofrog
     
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