Jakesdad's 6 wheel brake third O gauge coach build.

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by jakesdad13, May 12, 2020.

  1. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Very nice Pete, I like those axles and the blackening technique
     
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  2. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Ok, SWMBO has gone daddy sitting for a couple of days which gives me freedom to play trains and hopefully get my coach nearer to painting.
    As I alluded to in another thread, I decided that I wanted to be able to remove the roof as and when I wished or needed so I got my thinking cap on and this is what I have come up with, not perfect but it works.
    First I soldered an 8BA nut into a short length of brass tube, cut so that finished just above the height of the coaches floor. This was then pushed through a short length of flat brass around 10 x 35mm soldered to the coach roof and soldered in place making sure it was vertical in all planes. IMG_2499.JPG
    I soldered a couple of short pieces of brass angle each side of center as braces as it flexed a fair bit.
    This is it in place.
    IMG_2497.JPG
    At the other end I soldered a short dog leg of brass rod and that fits into a very short length of brass channel with a small hole drilled into it.
    IMG_2500.JPG
    IMG_2501.JPG
    And here it is in place.
    IMG_2498.JPG

    I have also fitted the brakes but I haven't taken any photos yet as I may have to do some adjustments to get the suspension units to sit flat where I have soldered the cross member that holds the roof in place, we shall see.

    Anyway thats all for now.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
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  3. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Neat solution Pete, presumably it sits in the brake end where it can't be seen through the windows?
     
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  4. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    This is a lovely build Pete..........your soldering skills are very good...:thumbs:
    Would that Blueing product you used work on other metals...?????
    :cheers::tophat:Gormo
     
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  5. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes that's right mate. I will use a similar method in my other coach but I will have to run it through the partition walls on that.

    Thanks Gormo. They definitely could be better mind :lol:. The bluing mix is intended for steel but it will work on other metals. I found with mine that the colour will come off on fingers and the kitchen roll I used to dry them off after washing. However in position they won't get much if any handling.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Pete,

    Great solution for the roof. I like that a lot. The bent rod at one end reducing the fixing screws to one is a good idea. I think you have given me an idea for the five compartment all third.

    I'd look at shortening the screw fixing to be completely within the roof cavity / curve so the pillar would not be seen. No critical where hidden in a brake compartment. I'll be pinching the concept though.

    Thanks

    Toto
     
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  7. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    OK got it....:thumbs:
    Thanks Pete.......I`m working on an idea....:scratchchin:
    :cheers::tophat:Gormo
     
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  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Just catching up on the build, very nice.

    Couple of questions

    The blacking, did that blacken the solder as well, and would it be ok for a loco chassis ?

    How are you intending to fit the compensation units.

    Paul
     
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  9. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    The solder has darkened but not quite as much as the brass, I will take some more photos and post them up.
    The compensation units will be soldered in from the inside, I will take some photos of them too.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
  10. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    I've had another session on the coach over the last couple of days. First job was to paint the wheels and once dry, assemble the suspension units and fit the wheels and axles.
    I loose fitted them to the coach to check clearances, I found that they wouldn't stay in place when I turned the coach over, which I will need to do to solder them in place from the inside.




    Now I remembered Paul Dundee printing off a jig to hold axles in line and at the correct spacing. Now I don't have access to a printer so I decided to fabricate my own jig from plastruct H section and angle.


    And in place.


    I had to pack the wheels between the cast springs and axle boxes to centre the units which seem to work spot on, won't find out until after painting to see if it all works..............

    Cheers, Pete.
     
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  11. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Ingeuious solution Pete. I'm sure it will work out just fine.
     
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  12. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Pete,

    I bought a set of etched axle spacing gauges from Brassmasters which they still list for both 4mm and 7mm I find them invaluable for setting up wagon underframes squarely - Available here
     
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  13. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Rob. I'm not sure if they would have worked with the suspension units as the axle bearings are behind the wheels and the center axle unit is narrower than the ends to give the wheels lateral swing but for sure they would be very useful for wagon axles and seem a reasonable price too.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    mmm..... unfortunately the wheel base is too large for a one piece solution for my printer, but a fixed center section with two adjustable outer axle guides.... that's doable

    Paul
     
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