Like Ed said Jack, I listened to it with headphones on.....Whoo eeey!!!!........ http://www.clickGormo
For the life of me I can't remember where I had posted the other pics of the signal box (interlocking tower...!) that I had started on for Jack's plank. Well, I'm sure I posted some, somewhere... Anyhow, this is what the kit looks like if you assemble straight out of the box.. This kit requires no painting but I thought it looked rather gaudy in the mustard yellow and brown. I decided that it needed repainting, or I should say a coat of paint, or several for that matter. Jay Dubyew Nth Yard is based on a Pennsylvanian Railroad switching yard, so I guess the tower had to resemble the PRR livery... Photos always bring out what the naked eye doesn't see. I think I need to sand the paint off the corner mouldings and apply more filler... The model still needs to be weathered up somewhat, but that will be after I repair the corner mouldings... Cheers, Gary.
Ok, the decission to exhibit this layout in June has raised a few questions... Question 1. Will it be ready in time... Question 2. What type of scenery do I go with ? Do I choose semi industrial ? Do I choose heavy industrial ? Or do I just keep the two industries on it and the rest of the scenery an overgrown mess ? Well, to answer Q1. I hope so. To get it there on time Jack and I need to pull out all stops and just get on with it. The answer to Q2. is the last of the three choices, two industries and the rest all overgrown. We had to keep reminding ourselves it is a shunting/switching plank, used for relocating wagons, drop offs and pick ups only. Nothing else. So I got into it today with some foam, balsa, air dry clay and embossed sheet. To create that illusion of depth, I needed some three dimensional land forms. This siding is cut into the hill side, which is about 11.5' high, hence the retaining wall ! This foamcore board will be dressed in the embossed stone sheet once the paint dries. Further down the line towards the are site of the furniture factory, some lower level land forms were carved up. This is the area right besides the furniture factory. The side door on the factory is very high up the wall, so I decided to raise the ground level around it so there are only 5 or 6 steps to the door and not 10 or 12. The square edge is where a small retaining wall will be sited. A retaining wall was scribed up on a length of balsa wood. ...and suitable posts and capping applied before painting/weathering. This pic is for Toto... The retaining wall installed and air dry clay has been pushed in between it and the track. The top has had a layer of clay rolled on as well. This area eventually will become the worker's car park or such. Couldn't get Das clay or the other brand I have used previously, so I am using this brand (Crayola). Some of the areas between the tracks have also been filled in with clay. The siding below the retaining wall will be slightly overgrown, the sleepers have been infilled with clay. I haven't patched the area between the wall and track yet as the embossed sheet needs to go in first. A small raised island between the siding and main line (team track) will be wildly overgrown. Looking down the line towards the signal box and the fiddle yard. Basicaaly this track plan is a four road inglenook with two kick back sidings. As I have a day off tomorrow, I'll tackle the layout some more, getting the embossed sheet on and filling the remaining gaps with clay. Now, I need to decide whether there will be a railway employees railway crossing, ungated ofcourse ! Cheers, Gary.
Great Progress Gary and Jack Liking the way your going with this Gary The crossing just needs a set of cross bucks and a GMC truck parked next to it with a guy in a safety vest. You'll have the layout ready in a week Gary at the current pace. Like the look of that air dry clay you will have to let us know how it goes compared to the other brands for shrinkage finish etc Looks like a good size pack. Was it from a craft shop.
Thanks guys. The clay was purchased from Officeworks. I tried Bunnings but I couldn't find any there. Asking the staff at Bunnings is the equivalent of them looking for there heads if they weren't screwed on ! It cost close to $15.00 for this 1.1kg tub. Ed, left the clay now for 12 hours and yes, those cracks have formed... :evil: I think the car park area besides the factory will need to be made of card or foam core to stop any shrinkage... The foam I used is not high density, maybe that's why it cracked up. Bummer really as now I have to make the baseboard smooth where I applied Liquid Nails... Cheers, Gary.
May be a bit of water spray/missed on as it dries may help slow the drying process and reduce the chance of cracking Same just before you place the clay on the surface mist a bit of water may be worth an experiment.
Thats a real shame Gary, I only used thin pieces pressed down really hard onto PVA. I've never tried anything as thick as that, perhaps as said a spray of water to slow the drying process would help??
From what I've read it appears Das is the only make that doesn't seem to crack as it dries I've still got the Hobbycraft clay I bought ages ago and was going to try it on my plank, but I suspect the same thing will happen. Might try spraying with water as it dries as Chris suggests. Ed
Ron wrote: The clay is only 2mm thick, if that. I'd say the low density foam underneath and our warm weather has a lot to do with the cracking. Plenty of PVA underneath as well. Maybe as the PVA dries, it shrinks as well...?? As for misting, I finished the laying the clay last night around 9.00pm, I wasn't going to be checking on it throughout the night, sleep beckons ! Nevermind, there are other alternatives ! Cheers, Gary.
Had a play with Photofiltre 7 and Posterazor today, after looking at leadie69's backscene on his US layout and watching how the Maestro (Gormo) struts his art form, I came up with these two backgrounds/backscenes... Overcast sky... Forest... and an overcast sky... Not all of the sky is shown,. there is more to the right... Cheers, Gary.
Brilliant!! well done mate, I tried for ages but could I heck as like get it to work for me , I don,t know if its because I use a laptop or if I am just cackhanded but nothing works. Cheers, Pete.
Thanks Pete. I can tell you that this didn't take me 5 minutes, not 20 minutes, but.., lets just say an awfully long time to get it like this ! Cheers, Gary.
Hi Gary, I downloaded both programmes, followed Gormos tutorial to the letter, but nothing worked, I must have tried 4 or 5 times but got so frustrated I gave it up as a bad job and bought a Gaugemaster backscene . Pete.
You don't have to use PosteRazor, any image manipulation software you might have or can get may well do the job. I did the one for my puzzle plank with Gimp, as the only available version of PosteRazor won't work with the newer versions of Linux. The image actually repeats but it's not that noticeable and I wouldn't have even tried if I hadn't watched Gormo's tutorial. (Sorry Jack & Gary, I'm hijacking your thread) Ed Edit: Can't spell, doh!
A little more clay has been spread around the layout as well as sleeper painting. I had studied quite a few images again of sleepers, in sidings and it seems like the less use the sidings get, or the older they are, the more brown in colour the become, unless it is the type of hardwood they use in the US for sleepers (ties... ). A variety of colours were mixed and matched to make it look like the real deal... The rails have also been painted... An overview of the entire plank. The ground foam has been painted in appropriate colours ready for soil, gravel and ballast to go down. A close up of the earth crossing. I have purchased some crossing signs as Chris had mentioned earlier. These are not US style of signs, but Australian, then again, there isn't that much difference between the two. As for renewing the area behind the timber retaining wall where the clay had cracked up, I rubbed in a thin wet putty of clay/water to level up the area. The remaining cracks will disappear once the scenic material goes down. Hopefully in the morning I can concentrate on some more clay in areas then the applying the scenic materials, ie, gravels, ballast and soils. Cheers, Gary (and Jack).