Leek station- an O Gauge project

Discussion in 'Specifically for scratch builds' started by York Paul, Sep 6, 2020.

  1. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Part of the work for Yorkie was the originally to put together the model of the signal box… or at least someone put the idea in my head to make it and it went from there, where I think Paul now has had to extend one of his base boards so he can have the building on the layout (to me it would be wrong to have the Station and not having it, and I’m not saying that because I’ve spent hours designing and printing it.:avatar:)

    anyway, the box kind of stalled after I printed it with it being 60% complete. It’s all printed, but I just moved on to other bits to return when the inspiration found me again… I know we have all been there with one model or another.

    anyway, yesterday I decided to pick up and progress one part I’d stopped with, the internal lighting..

    I’d already made the shades previously and made some lights from a £2.50 string of 30 LEDs from a garden centre. these were threaded through the shades and twisted up and will be made to look like the brown cables that lights in the 50’s and 60’s hung on.. sadly I have no idea if Leek was lit quite like this as we lack the info.. I digress..

    D81F3A1B-7DBC-4D6D-85D2-F236639D2371.jpeg
    the three lights were passed through the pre drilled holes in the conduit which is on the roof panel.
    On the opposite side I’ve fitted some adhesive copper tracking.
    612744E9-6863-4705-91EC-0493EE9E67AB.jpeg
    this has allowed me to solder the ends to the track and also to the battery.
    Why 3 runs? The idea is there is another 3 smaller lights to be fitted still Ona separate circuit that will have a switch in it, but share a common positive feed. 1392AF19-E998-4AEF-81B2-6898778FED3C.jpeg it all hides above the internal roof but under the outer apex.
    160F7A68-6BF5-46D1-BD2D-07548F1642D7.jpeg The battery box to the right has a button cell in it and is at the moment, just blue tacked down. 65EA3669-152D-4971-9D87-B05CD0F06FD1.jpeg
    and we have light!!!
    41A920C2-9B14-40F6-AA12-CCC12A40A094.jpeg EE101C74-7BA9-4690-9E8B-EA64CD17C53C.jpeg

    And my favourite picture so far…
    930AACE5-86F1-44DD-808F-0C4F08944213.jpeg

    However, the camera lies and the lights appear brighter in the photo that to the human eye. It has identified that a) they hang too low, but that’s an easy adjustment, b) they need another coat of green paint to stop the light bleed!

    that’s all for now..

    ttfn

    Andy
     
  2. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    G`day Andy,
    Nice job on the lights...:thumbs:
    You could always run a permanent power feed later on by adding a resistor / resistors into the line.
    I have experienced light bleed with the lights I have made. They look good when you paint them and then you turn the power on and you get little bits of light showing through the paint....:faint:It normally takes around three coats to cover effectively and usually now, on the third coat, I do it with the light on so I know where to add more paint if necessary.
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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  3. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Point taken on three coats but I really need a battery supply as it may not always be displayed in the same place.
    And thanks for the compliment ! :cheers:
     
  4. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Very nice Andy.
    My tip is to use a black primer on the shades first regardless of the finished colour, this has worked for me on white, black, green, pale blue and yellow shades. I use the same method on exposed LED’s and then use a cotton bud dipped in thinners to expose as much of the light as required.
     
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  5. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks.. good idea re the black on the shade..

    Don’t quite follow what you mean by the LED bit though? You mean to mask out the back? So light is focused to the front?
    Andy
     
  6. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes Andy, sorry , I use a lot of the 1.8mm micro dot LED’s which are basically a square block with a domed circle. Light come out of the 4 sides not just the dome, so by painting them black all over then cleaning off just the dome gives a good result.

    as per the Ruston build I’m doing now. Picture should give a clear idea of the process. :thumbup:

     
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