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Discussion in 'Planks, Switching and Shelf Layouts' started by cmcan, Jun 14, 2016.

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Jun 17, 2016 #21

Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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A real man cave.
Jun 17, 2016 #22

cmcan Full Member

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Thanks Chris. I'll ask you when the Leds aarive how to wire them up.

Toto - wait until you see the throne that comes with the man cave. Its around the corner but I will post a photo later
Jun 18, 2016 #23

Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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The LED strips (as in the link provided) can be wired directly to an old 12V train transformer. If you need to join more strips together, just solder the red/blacks to the adjoining strip. There are small tabs at the opposite end of the wired end. I have used a very old transformer/controller on Linden Ford. This way I can control the amount of light required.

Cheers, Gary.
Jun 18, 2016 #24

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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I'll be using an old PC power supply

This gives a 12V, 5V and 3.3V supplies at quite high currents if needed.

12V - LED strip lights and 12V grain o wheat bulbs

5V - Arduino's, MERG CBUS power, Raspberry Pi, USB hub

3.3V - Direct power feed for LED's (Homemade street lights etc)

My only outstanding issue will be the 16V ac, required for the MERG DCC acc decoder (with builtin CDU), currently uses my H&M Duette, a christmas present over 40 years ago.

Paul
Jun 18, 2016 #25

Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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Hmm, 16 volts, great for throwing solenoid point motors and no need for a CDU !

Cheers, Gary.
Jun 19, 2016 #26

cmcan Full Member

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Thanks everyone

How do you wire the pc power supply?

How do you control it for dimming the LEDS if you want to

Cameron
Jun 19, 2016 #27

Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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The flood gets have opened now Cameron ........
Jun 19, 2016 #28

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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I don't know what Toto is inferring

It's better to use an ATX rather than an AT power supply as all the main connections are within the box.

From the large 20 / 24 pin connector, cut the green wire, and any black wire.

For the psu to power up these need to be connected together. Either permanently or via a switch.

Wire colours

Black = 0v
Red = +5V
Yellow = +12V
Orange = +3.3V

Just use any you require.

Couple of youtube links

Basic

https://youtu.be/C8rQ3mG-36g

More advanced - but far better

https://youtu.be/QoGnOoTICGY

Paul
Jun 20, 2016 #29

cmcan Full Member

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Hi everyone,

Now the fun starts, a starter power supply arrived today.

Its a gaugemaster - combi single track controller. I temporarily connected it and my purchase form the exhibition works (yay - may need to look at replacing the motor - any ideas. It's a Lima 44 Class - it will require a respray, skirt/detail kit,and different couplers).

It's time to look at permanently locating the track - one more look at AnyRail.

Sorry for the large post. Take you time or be selective in your response if you like.

Few questions - I have been researching ideas -

Coupler ideas - I had a 44 years ago (well it was a Lima 930). I was a member of Epping MRC in the 80s - when they were still running Mt Wilson - I was assisted in cutting off the lima couplers and replaced them with kadee #5's I remember having to file the end of kadee coupler casing to stop it fouling on the bogies. Any other kadee numbers

Securing track - I am thinking PVA to cork - easier if I need to pull up due to mistakes - its not a portable layout.

Wiring - I am looking at creating a few blocks. Any thoughts on common rail vs 2 wires for every individual block (I'm not up to date on the terms. I read diagrams as black to earth, and read supplying power or least thats how I interpret them when doing other projects - so common earth and individual power supply to each block)

Ian - sorry to bury this here. I like the idea of the computer PSU. One question that I can't seem to find any answers for - as there are a number of wires for each supply (16v, 5v, 3.3v, earth, and -vs.). Does that mean there are multiple 16v supplies etc or do all the applicable cables e.g. 16v need to be joined to create one 16v supply like in the advanced video you directed me to (well he just linked all the 16v wires but I don't remember him discussing why).

Cheers

Cameron
Jun 20, 2016 #30

Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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Hi Cameron,

Looks like you have well and truly got your plans underway. How's about a picture of the class 44.

I'm not up on motors but I am sure someone will be along with a recommendation that will fit the bill.

Gluing the track to the cork sounds fine. I have heard of folks using copydex. ( I think that's the correct name ) apparently it does not dry as hard as PVA and assists in providing a bit noise deadening.

I think playing around with Anyrail is a good idea as well as it may just confirm your plan in your own mind before taking the plunge.

I'll look forward to seeing your layout kick off.

Cheers

Toto
Jun 20, 2016 #31

Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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Here are a couple of pics of my old Lima 44 fitted with No.5s. Yes, the side fixing points have been shaved off and the box fitted with a small screw. I have used an Ian Lindsey front pilot after removing the existing piece of plastic.

Above, shows where |I shaved the front of the bogie frame for Kadee clearance and how much of the coupler box protrudes through.
Below shows how much of the chassis was removed to fit the Ian Lindsey pilot.

The No.2 end showing the clearances needed for fitting the No.5 coupler.

As for a smaller box for fitting the Lima 44, maybe a No.5 coupler in a No. 233 gear box might work.
Here is a link to Kadee Couplers : http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Couplers.htm

PVA is great for fixing track. Will you be covering the baseboard completely with cork, or will it be strips under the tracks ??
If using a full covering, glue the cork sheet down wih PVA, allow this to dry, then you can use thumb tacks to pin track down into position. Otherwise, cut your strips and pin and glue track all in one go.

Now, for common rail or two wires for block working. I'd suggest two wires for block work. This way you can change direction of a locomotive within that block or section. If all track sections have the same common, you'll have all sections switching over at once. Less train control in my opinion.

Cheers, Gary.

EDIT ##

Re-powering the Lima 44 : I have read that the Athearn SD7 mech can be used inside the Lima. I don't know how much work is required to the chassis for fitting. The April 1993 edition of AMRM has a good article on repowering Lima Locos whilst issue 199 has an article on repowering the Lima 422 which could be adapted for the 44 class.
Jun 20, 2016 #32

SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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Cameron Have a look at this on the bay for the 44 repower.

I think Keith has used these with great results.
Looks very simple and cheap to replace the innards of the Lima motor
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231982721730?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Jun 20, 2016 #33

cmcan Full Member

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Thanks for your input.

Toto, a picture tommorrow of the 44. The colour is way too dark on the model

Gary thanks for the pictures. I had a brass pilot kit in the eighties. I never got it fit right. Thanks for the wiring tip.

Gary and Chris Ill check out those ideas for the motor

Cameron
Jun 20, 2016 #34

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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Chris, would that motor (or similar) work for Hornby Ringfield motors ?

Paul
Jun 20, 2016 #35

SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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Paul I'm guessing it may work
May not be a direct fit like these to a Lima but with a bit of fettling may be possible

I have just purchased 2 of these to try in 2 old favourite Lima models will let you know how they go and do some measurements on the dimensions

Link to Keith M Post on re motoring a Lima power bogie
http://www.platform1mrc.com/view_topic.php?id=639&forum_id=49
Jun 21, 2016 #36

cmcan Full Member

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Toto
here is a photo of my 44 class

It's darker than any photo I have seen but the aim is to do it up

Cameron

Attached files
Jun 21, 2016 #37

cmcan Full Member

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And no railway room/man cave should be without one of these

Attached files
Jun 21, 2016 #38

SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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No getting caught short whilst your running trains

Cameron I'm thinking you have lots more layout space than you think for a model railway.
Getting a little creative with storage shelving one level could have the layout contained at a nice level around your area, with its own LED strip lighting under the shelf above and you still keep all the storage.
Jun 21, 2016 #39

cmcan Full Member

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Chris

I could build an empire, but will start slow. I am already pondering a future extension but will finish the first layout

A clean up of the area is on the cards, i also has a garage i could extend in to

Cameron
Jun 21, 2016 #40

Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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How good is that .......... Sitting on the shunky watching the trains go by. Is that a executive toilet or wot

First class.

Toto

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