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Lola's end

Discussion in 'Planks, Switching and Shelf Layouts' started by cmcan, Jun 14, 2016.

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Jun 21, 2016 #41

Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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Found these on ebay, good for spares, rebuild or straight out running :

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/lima-ho-australian-national-937-locomotive-/272275977533

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lima-HO-OO-Gauge-NSWGR-44-Class-Alco-Diesel-Locomotive-4469-Boxed-Working-/201604410712

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HO-SCALE-NSWGR-LIMA-MODELS-44-CLASS-DIESEL-LOCOMOTIVE-4463-IN-TUSCAN-LIVERY-/222154784182

Cheers, Gary.
Jun 21, 2016 #42

jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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Hi Cameron, I reckon you only need a kettle and you could stay in there for days .

Pete.
Jun 21, 2016 #43

cmcan Full Member

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Thanks Gary,

Ill check those out

Toto, jakesdad, all i need is afridge and its complete. Hang on there is a full size fridge up the other end with the lawn mower!
Jun 24, 2016 #44

cmcan Full Member

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Hi everyone

Some progress. I've glued down some extra cork for the track bed. Needed to get to 3mm for the wire in Tube points. I will attempt to cut WIT slots tommorrow and start drilling holes for the wiring.

Still deciding on a small panel for the trAck/wiring blocks. Maybe overkill as there won't be so many, but I want to explore some simple wiring such as an led lights up when power is on to that block.

I'll post a isolation/block plan thingy tonight

Waiting for the strip LEDs to arrive

Cameron

Attached files
Jun 24, 2016 #45

Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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A good supplier of cork in Sydney is Portugal Cork : http://portcork.com.au/

I buy 600 x 900 x 3mm sheets for about $7.00 each. That's cheap compared to buying the pre-cut strips !

Cheers, Gary.
Jun 24, 2016 #46

cmcan Full Member

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Thanks Gary,

I keep that in my supplier list.

Below is a block plan I have for my layout. The isolation joiners are in red (you might need to enlarge the picture (sorry))

They red triangle is positive, the black is return/earth.

The yellow triangles are isolation sections to be controlled by a switch.

The points are peco electrofrog. Have I wired this wrong or do you see other options I need to consider.

Thanks again for your input everyone.

Cameron

Attached files
Jun 24, 2016 #47

Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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I would recommend isolating the track between the left hand point and the right hand point (between the yellow and orange sections), between the right hand point and the short spur (purple and orange) and again after the second left hand point, both the bottom line and the siding coming off this point (yellow/blue & yellow/pink). The green lines show where. By doing this, you can stop/store a loco in the short spur (purple)t, a train in each siding after the right hand point (orange) and second left hand point (blue and pink). Keep a train/locomotive in each other colour section and also in the sections at the end of each sidings (brown) so that a loco can be released. At these ends, I would recommend measuring the longest locomotive you have and make these isolated sections long enough for that particular locomotive.

Cheers, Gary.
Jun 24, 2016 #48

cmcan Full Member

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Thanks Gary

Between the two yellow points back to back do i still need to use the isolating spacer as per Peco's instructions? I get that isloation is needed to separate the pink, blue, orange, and purple section.
Jun 25, 2016 #49

Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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I would recommend using metal rail joiners between the two left hand points. The two left hand points and the headshunt is therefore one section.

Cheers, Gary.
Jun 25, 2016 #50

cmcan Full Member

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Thanks gary

Just two simple questions
1 does and he wiring of the rhand point stay the same (red on top, black on the lower rail)

2 when connectong the wire in tube rod to the point did you drill a larger hole in the point bar or did you file the rod?

Thnks cameron
Jun 25, 2016 #51

Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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Hi Cameron,

1. does and he wiring of the r/hand point stay the same (red on top, black on the lower rail)

A. The answer here is yes. All wiring will be the located/fitted same way. If not, you will cause shorts when the loco crosses into the next section.

2 when connecting the wire in tube rod to the point did you drill a larger hole in the point bar or did you file the rod?

A. The hole was not drilled out larger. If you are using 1mm diameter wire, the hole should be big enough to take the wire. I'd say the hole would take wire up to 1,2mm diameter rod.

Cheers, Gary.
Jun 25, 2016 #52

cmcan Full Member

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Gary,

I bought some brass rods that were 1.57mm which were too large to fit into the hole. I had a 1.5mm drill bit which I carefully enlarged the hole. I have ordered 1mm brass rods which should arrive later this week hopefully along with some other goodies.

Do I need to cut the two wires soldered under the point as per the peco instructions (I don't mean the wire in the groove which I am assuming is the green wire on your diagram).

Enjoy the racing - When is Bathurst?

Cameron
Jun 25, 2016 #53

Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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Here is a video that shows where and why we cut the two small wires on the base of the points. You will need to fix short lengths of wire from the stock rails to the switch blades :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDCOqTu6NQ4#t=320.674291

Cheers, Gary.

ps. Bathurst 1000 : 6th-9th October. Bathurst 12 Hour 3rd-5th February.
Jun 27, 2016 #54

cmcan Full Member

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The wiring phase has commenced. Ah the aroma of flux and solder. Just dont breath it in. I didnt. Just waiting for a couple of pieces for the points and testing can commence
Jun 27, 2016 #55

Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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Good luck.

Let us know how it goes.
Jun 27, 2016 #56

Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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cmcan wrote:

Ah the aroma of flux and solder.
Click to expand...

...and burnt fingers ! Good luck with the wiring. Looking forward to the update.

Cheers, Gary.
Jun 27, 2016 #57

cmcan Full Member

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Thanks everyone

Gary, I came close, although I should say no melted sleepers for the most part. Well nothing that requires replacing. continuity checks were ok. Final checks when the power is connected.

One final question about installing the switches. I noticed on industry lane that the switches were situated above the baseboard frame. Did you carve a slot for them so they could sit flush?

I'll post some photos around the final checks.

Cameron
Jun 27, 2016 #58

Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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This diagram explains how I fitted my switches. It involves drilling down into the baseboard frame, then chiselling square (rectangular) to fit the body of the switch and also drilling horizontally to be able to run the wires.

Cheers, Gary.
Jun 28, 2016 #59

cmcan Full Member

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Thanks

I thought so. I just didn't want to carve up the baseboard unnecessarily if I didn't have to.
Jun 29, 2016 #60

SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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cmcan wrote:

Thanks for your input.

Toto, a picture tommorrow of the 44. The colour is way too dark on the model

Gary thanks for the pictures. I had a brass pilot kit in the eighties. I never got it fit right. Thanks for the wiring tip.

Gary and Chris Ill check out those ideas for the motor

Cameron
Click to expand...

paul_l wrote:

Chris, would that motor (or similar) work for Hornby Ringfield motors ?

Paul
Click to expand...

Cameron and Paul the motors turned up today I have installed one in my old super detailed Lima C38 loco
Fitted it with a TCS T1 decoder and a keep alive
And it seems to run OK on the 3ft of peco test track feels like it will be a lot more powerful than the old Lima pancake motor

Will give it a try hopefully this afternoon on a friends layout

Dimensions are on the photo below

Attached files

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