MM Models BR Pipe Wagon

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Rob Pulham, Dec 31, 2017.

  1. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi all, our glorious leader asked me to post this after a conversation over on the Guild forum.

    It's the build of an M&M Models BR Pipe wagon. You may wonder why as a confirmed grouping era modeller I built it. Well I was lured by the price and that at the time it was advertised as LMS diagram 460 but what I didn't realise until I got in hand that none of them were built until 1949.


    That in mind I decide to built it and sell it on to fund further projects.

    The basic body and underframe all went together quite well as I recall.
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    I am pretty sure that I used a surplus LMS plate from the MMP Glass wagon on this to replace the whitemetal plate that was included in the kit.
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    It all went fine until I got to fitting the brakes - I replaced the awful cross shaft casting with a piece of copper tube.
    More to follow in the next post.

     
  2. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Following on from the last post construction continued.


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    The brake lever guards were more quite crude castings so I scratched some up from some nickel scrap etc.


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    Then we get to the fundamental flaw in the kit. In the middle of the photo you can see the brakes provided in the kit. The two outer sets are the scratch built replacements - notice the difference in length. Those supplied were so far away from the wheels as to be laughable.
    I built this back in 2013 and when a fellow Guild member George Tate bought one last year I mentioned the issue n the hope that it might have been remedied in the meantime. Nope he had to bodge his too.:facepalm:
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  3. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    IT looks like a nice clean build and generally a nice looking kit Rob. What do you mean about the copper tube comment?

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  4. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Git it Rob, the last pictures show it well. Thanks. Very nice kit bar the brake issue of course.:thumbs: I dare say it's just a matter of time before most of us come across such nuisances. It's whether or not we are able to provide the solution though. :avatar:

    Excellent stuff. Thanks for posting this up. There is a couple of things that can be learned from this post.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  5. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    It is worth noting for all those concerned with soldering whitemetal that all the whitemetal fittings on this were soldered on with 70[sup]0[/sup] solder after tinning the area to be soldered to with 145[sup]0[/sup] solder - it predated my being aware of and buying some 100[sup]0[/sup][sup]
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    In the end it scrubbed up nicely but had I been a beginner it could have put me off completely so it a range I don't recommend unless you are comfortable with correcting some quite fundamental flaws.


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    Rather foolishly I didn't appreciate just how good a job I had made of it at the time and took the first offer that was made when I put it up for sale. I realised the error of my ways when I could have sold it half a dozen times over the next few days. Sadly the deal was done and I stuck to it.
     
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  6. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I have just remembered another bit of fun that I had with it. The castings for the door springs were not quite the right shape to fit to the solebar and the body side without being bent to shape. They were very delicate and most snapped requiring some careful whitemetal soldering to repair them.

    [​IMG]


    These are the bits that I am referring to. - a challenge doesn't start to describe them
     
  7. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I have got quite a bit of 70 degree solder right now but no 100 degree. I'm assuming I could substitute one for the other. In saying that, I think I need to buy 145 degree stuff anyway so can always pick up some 100 degree at the same time.

    You finished it very well.

    Toto
     
  8. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Excellent thread Rob. :thumbs:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  9. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Toto wrote:
    Hi Toto,
    You don't 'need' 100[sup]0[/sup] degree solder, it just saves tinning when you want to attach whitemetal to brass. As I have said elsewhere I actually struggle a bit with it and tend to only use it for buffer stocks or to attach fittings to back heads (from the rear)
    Personally I would still use 70[sup]0[/sup] to solder whitemetal to whitemetal but I am sure that others would offer different opinions and we would all be right because it's what you find works for you - making sure the area to be joined is clean is as or more important as the solder you use.
     
  10. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Gary wrote:
    Thanks Gary,
    Would I build another, not unless someone pays me to:avatar:
     
  11. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Excellent build and nicely finished wagon Rob. Well done mate.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
  12. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Thanks Pete,

    Although thinking back, although I did the paint job,
    I can't take credit for the weathering because Chris did it - it was in the days before I plucked up the courage to have a go and found how much enjoyed that aspect of modelling.
     
  13. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Very nice build Rob

    Looking at how the detail was added on top, has given me a few ideas for scratch building the wagons using the cnc / the KNK plotter cutter mmmmm :scratchchin:

    Paul
     
  14. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Paul,
    If you need any drawings to work to let me know and I will have a look to see if I have what you need.
     
  15. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Rob Pulham wrote:
    The first MM kit I made was the Conflat A, my constructive criticism would be the fuzziness of detail on some of the castings, for example if I built another Conflat I'd replace the moulded side chain links with proper links. I too think these kits are hard work and only if you actually want to do one. I gave up on their 20 ton brake van kit, the ducket folded etch seems overscale depth wise but the kits do come in nice snap to plastic cases which come in useful.:avatar:
    cheers for now Paul
     
  16. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Is Line Clear wrote:
    Oh yes, I had completely forgotten about the nifty box. Mine holds my collections of o gauge transfers.
     
  17. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Just resurrecting this post so folks can see how this wagon should be done ....... as compared with how Dundee and I will do it. :avatar:

    Thanks again Rob.

    Toto
     
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