Mossys 3D Models

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Mossy, May 19, 2022.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    As for the colour, it is more than just easy on the eye - the grey is better, however, this resin was also very Yorkshireman / Scotsman friendly, that is either a buy 2 get one free or buy 1 get one free offers from Anycubic. :avatar:

    Hi Mossy the replacement brake assemblies arrived - thanks. I'm busy with the Perth Show this week end. I'm towing the trailer for the club to take the layout to Perth this afternoon, then manning the layout tomorrow. Toto may even be able to head to Perth on Sunday, so a visit as a member of the public on Suday for me. All this means modelling will be delayed to Monday - unless the boss has other ideas.

    Paul
     
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  2. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul

    Which boss? SWMBO or Toto?
    Are you now defining yourself as a Scotsman.
     
  3. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    A day of chaos and disasters

    Plan 1 finish off the bolsters for the D1, D2 and D10 wagons had to be put on hold – I’ve run out of 7mm brass wire, Eileen’s are out of stock so I have ordered some from Ebay but delivery will take a few days.

    Plan 2 switch to the D10 body but when I looked at the new print its warped like a banana. Why? This is a first for me so I tried Andy’s dunk it in warm water and then weight it down to try straighten the warping with no success.

    Plan 3 revise the supports and add a series of heavy supports to pin the body securely to the skate and try again. One of the most frustrating things with the Photon Mono X is you can’t see any progress for a couple of hours so I tend to do something else and go back later to check how things are going. Something did go wrong, the build plate has retracted and there nothing attached to it. Off with the lid and a poke about in the resin vat I can feel a partial print attached to it. Then things decidedly went

    d
    o
    w
    n hill.

    The vat was attached to the screen protector and it’s attached to the mono plate, when I finally got everything lifted off the screen protector was attached to the FEP by cured resin and there was even more cured resin on the mono plate. Oh &^%**&$, as you can see by the photo below the mono plate is ruined and will need replacing, but how the …. has all this happened, something has punctured the FEP and then the resin has also got under the protector. Conclusion I am going to have to totally rebuild the Mono X so am restricted to the Mono until things are rectified. Thankfully I have a spare mono plate but no spare FEP or screen protectors, so they have been ordered. Not a good day.

    Mossy

    IMG_1302.jpg
     
  4. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I’m not even going to press the like button..

    Oh Mossy, I feel your pain..

    As for the water, did you use warm or Hot?

    it needs to be hot as you can stand (around 50 deg +) to soften the model… if you now going to use it as a trial, once it’s hot and you can flex it a little, but not too much to snap, hold it for a min or two in the position you want the stick it under the cold tap!

    worked well for me?

    andy
     
  5. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Hi Andy,

    I reckon there's about a 2mm warp from end to end, do you think I can bend it back that far?
    And thank you for not liking, I'm still grrrrrrrrring, what rankles the most is not knowing what/why it happened.

    Mossy
     
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  6. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I had a similar leak but mine didn’t get to the glass.. although it did get under the screen protector..

    It’s not so much the 2mm it’s the thickness of the part I believe.
    But if it’s that warped, what do you have to loose… although it could make your day better, it could make it worse..

    probably best to walk away and come back another day when your mood has changed. :(
     
  7. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    After yesterdays chaos I decided to go back to wagons which fit the Mono build plate. A few weeks ago I printed a V1/2 brake van body but crushed the roof due to an inability to see ny own feet. This morning I have printed the other wagon parts, leaving a replacement roof for later today. I'm especially pleased with the Lamp Irons which I can only just see. Using Rob's wheeze the 20p (sorry Rob didn't have a 5p) gives a good idea of the size of them.

    Mossy

    IMG_1306.jpg
     
  8. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    It's nice to see the lamp irons after yesterday's woes.
    I would have suggested Premier Components for the. 7mm brass wire but he's on holiday so you would have had to wait from there too. Good value though.
     
  9. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Rob

    The wire cost £3.50 for 10 x 30mm length so what the quality is like is open to question, I suppose I will find out later in the week.

    Mossy.
     
  10. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Since the Mono is purring along today I have printed a new V1/2 body (there are a number of cosmetic changes from the previous print), a V1/1 body and body parts and since why stop when things are going well I have set the V1/2 brake roof running. I will run out of time tonight so the V1/1 roof will be done tomorrow morning.

    The V1/1 needs a few cosmetic changes before a second print is done but is perfectly good enough for an initial build.

    So V1/2 Brake on the left, V1/1 on the right:

    IMG_1308.jpg

    I know Rob loves outside framed vans, so the V1/2 should whet his appetite, however. tucked up and never revealed before is I also have the alternate diagonal framed version sat in the 'print me please' queue.

    Mossy
     
  11. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Any good ideas?

    I have made a start on the hand rails for the V1/2 brake and realised my small drop off, there should be holes in the end supports where a hand rail comes around the end and attaches to the vertical handrail. It needs to be roughly where the blue dot is. Anyone got any good ideas how to do it? Just to add to the fun I need to replicate it exactly at the other end of the van. Another correction to be made.

    Mossy

    IMG_1309[9598].jpg
     
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  12. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    In true Blue Peter style, here's one I did earlier.

    [​IMG]

    You just need to mark it out and drill it. - You could cut a strip of card or styrene the same length/width as the side of the end post. Drill that and use it as a template so that you get them all in the same place on each end post.
     
  13. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Rob

    Is that a V1/3 with side cotes? It looks like the Jim McGeown model but I didn't think he did a version with side cotes?

    I hadn't though of a template than might be easier that my plan of create a groove into the wire fits then millput over it.

    One of the cosmetic fixes to the v1/1 has turned out to be quite a bit more, its going to need both ends recreating, so I have spent today making sure all the V1/2 bits are present and just because I could I have fired up a print of the alternate side V1/2 to play with as well.

    Mossy
     
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  14. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    It is a modified Jim McGeown kit. Jim was kind enough to supply me with the duckets from some scrap etches to allow me to make it.
     
  15. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    More progress

    I haven't had the courage to drill the holes required for the horizontal handrails yet, but have been looking at howto fit the footboards.

    The upper footboard has a half round cut in its base cut to allow the insertion of a small wire pin.

    IMG_1312[9603].jpg

    IMG_1311[9602].jpg

    What I missed out was a corresponding hole in the chassis for the pins to fit in so had to drill them by eye. (Another change to the model, but a simple one).
    I didn't quite get the first pair of holes in the right place but with a bit of fiddling:

    IMG_1310[9601].jpg

    For once one of my ideas works the footboard is just pushed in for the photo but will be glued later.

    Next the lower footboard, again these have half round holes cut to locate the 7mm wire, checking the diagram this sits 11mm below the chassis into which I have pre drilled holes, so a simple spacing block will ensure the correct depth. But then it's going to need some serious bending to get around the axle box.

    IMG_1314.jpg

    So an alternate idea - any thoughts?

    IMG_1315.jpg

    Mossy
     
  16. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Lamp Irons.

    These are tiny and have a microscopic glue area. The rivets are .7mm diameter and could be replaced by very fine dress making pins. I have been rummaging in the wifes sewing box and all the pins have a 1.6mm head, does anyone know where I can get some seriously small headed pins?

    The door handles proved simple but look nice:

    IMG_1317[9612].jpg

    Mossy
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2022
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  17. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Wow ... I've missed a lot over the last few days.

    With all that destruction, did the polarizing layer come off as well, as you may need to replace that as well.

    So far - touch wood - when my fep has punctured it's been a small hole that has tended to cure and seal to avoid the major catastrophy you suffered.
    On my first Mono X I have installed a glass protection screen, so at least I can scrape off the resin if it gets through. Not done that on the new one - yet :facepalm:

    For the intricate bends - why not print a bending jig - just a few blocks placed to give you some thing the hold the wire in place while you bend them. I created one for the HR Passenger Tank hand rails.

    [​IMG]

    Been going through similar trials and tribulations

    Ran the RERF file as supplied with the new Mono, on both machines.


    Left hand side is the older machines build plate, right hand side is the new build plate.

    REFP exposure range 0.8 to 3.2 seconds. Base layer 40 sec. UV power at 80%

    Best exposure on original loos like 2.6s, and the new 2.2 sec.

    However, on the new checker plate I can't get the models off the build plate without destroying them - see bottom left print on the new build plate.

    So looks like different profiles for each printer. :facepalm:

    Also on the bottom right of the older print, the buildup of artifacts, which wont help keeping the fep inb good condition.

    Tried a test print at 20s for the base layer, and 2.2s on the normal layers. 3 models on the build plate 1. one with auto placement of Medium supports, 2. one with heavy supports with any touching the finished surface removed, 3. and finally one with heavy supports again with the supports removed as per last one, but replaced with light supports.

    All 3 base layers still attached to build plate, still difficult to remove but they do come off. Only the Medium supported model printed correctly. the second print with some supports failing at the start but fixed itself, and the third was a major fail. Also some signs of the raft layers segregating.

    Next test, all three models auto med supports, exposure upped to 2.4s - all three good.

    A bit of research suggests the artifacts may be caused by the UV power being too high, so the next test on the original mono, will be using the 3.3s exposure I had been using but drop the UV power to 50% (it is what it was set at when it arrived).

    Hopefully will get time to try the new brake assemblies on the K1

    Paul
     
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  18. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Hi Paul,

    Apart for removing the damaged bits I haven't had the heart to even open the box let alone dismantle the beast. I'm still annoyed that whatever happened caused the screen protector to fail as well as the FEP.

    Mossy
     
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  19. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    I printed some spacers 1mm think in order to ensure the vertical handrails were equally spaced from the body, but also as sacrificial lambs when I came to solder the horizontal handrails to them. In hind sight I didn't make them thick enough 1.5 or even 2mm would have been better also they were a bit narrow next time I will make spacers just a couple om mil narrower than the handrails themselves.

    Having forgotten to cut holes for the horizontal handrails, I went for Rob's suggestion of mark them out and drill. Sadly a lack of skill meant the first one broke through the end post, so I reverted to my idea of cutting grooves and repairing with milliput. Then having not touched a solder iron for 2-3 years on to what I was dreading - soldering the horizontal to the vertical. Squeaky bum and wobbly knees time. Actually all went pretty well, not as neat as the experts but it will clean up and it worked so I am happy.

    Rough soldered(with protective spacer behind it):

    IMG_1331.jpg

    Final Result:

    IMG_1333.jpg

    Still a long way to go but at least progress and a lot of lessons learned.

    Mossy
     
  20. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Looking good, I really aught to have a handrail making session. I have a 51ft full brake that just requires handrails and transfers. It's been like that for 5 years :redface:
     
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