NER V1/1 Brake Van

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Mossy, Oct 13, 2021.

  1. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

    Messages:
    1,540
    Likes Received:
    2,320
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2020
    Since starting to mess about with Fusion 360 and 3d printing almost 2 months ago, I am now in a position where I have 4 different NER wagons in an “almost finished” state and apart from checking the fit of various components, I have realised I haven’t built anything over that period.

    Decision made put all my time and resources into finishing one of the wagon and get on and build it before fiddling about with anything else. The V1/1 is the closest to being finished so time to build.

    Ready to go:

    Body, doors, floor, roof and all the running gear (although I suspect the springs will need modifying).

    To finish off:

    The brake gear needs printing and I have two versions of the clasp brakes to try out, I’m not sure which will work best so that’s a little experimental. The interior part also need printing.
    All these missing bits will be printed and cured later today.

    All that is then left to sketch and print are the two running boards, those should be relatively simple and will get done either today or tomorrow.

    So let the adventure begin, my first home spun wagon, oh er Vicar.

    Mossy
     
  2. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    3,896
    Likes Received:
    3,622
    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2018
    Best of luck. You have made amazing progress!
    Andy
     
  3. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

    Messages:
    1,540
    Likes Received:
    2,320
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2020
    Thanks Andy, fingers crossed.
     
    Andy_Sollis likes this.
  4. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

    Messages:
    1,540
    Likes Received:
    2,320
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2020
    Day 1 If it can go wrong it will

    I laid out all the components just to check I had everything and spares of all the fragile bits. Check all present and correct.

    So crack on Mossy. The floor dropped neatly into the body with a little dressing so it was glued in and left to dry.
    For some reason the next thing I did was to check the fit of the interior parts. Something just looked wrong so I fished out a 7mm Guard, stood him on the raised platform and his head poked out above the roof. I then compared him to the side seat, again too high, he would need to jump to get onto the seat.
    All not a problem, as they weren't needed just now they could be easily adjusted and reprinted.

    Next it to bat W Irons. I had deliberately cut into the chassis 1mm square slots for these and a corresponding extrusion .8mm square on the face of the W Irons, so with the clever chassis jig the Rob recommended in another thread (great tool if you haven't got one buy one) there shouldn't be a problem. I fitted no 1 and then used the jig to position no 2 on the same side, somethings wrong, wtf is it. Well this beast is 8ft wide, 56 mm in O gauge, and the solebars are 3.5mm wide, a standard Slaters axle just isn't wide enough. Referring back to the diagram in Ian Sadlers book and it dawned on me what was wrong. Behind the W iron the axlebox projects a long way into the under frame, I hadn't allowed for it and 2 duff W Irons are now glued into the chassis %$£%%$. Ok option 1 draw some spacer blocks to fit behind the W Iron to fill the gap, option 2 redraw the W Irons with the extra extrusion, I didn't like option one so new W Irons needed but can I get the duff ones out and not damage the chassis. Nope so I now also need a new body/chassis and floor printing. :facepalm: After all this in theory the easy bits, I took to drink and banal tv programs for the night. Oh just to add to the fun I am almost out of grey resin and am awaiting a new delivery, I can probably print the W irons etc, but I doubt I have enough for the body.

    All ion all not a good day.

    Mossy
     
    paul_l and Andy_Sollis like this.
  5. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    3,896
    Likes Received:
    3,622
    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2018
    Hey, I’ve done a print tonight. All of 45 mins..

    the scaffold is perfect.. but alas, the model is not to be seen!
    No doubt stuck to the FEP so second clean in three prints.
     
  6. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

    Messages:
    1,540
    Likes Received:
    2,320
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2020
    Andy,

    I decided to risk printing the revised W irons. A 2 hour run, so I set it off and left to do some jobs at my daughters, later when I got back I went to check the print. Absolutely nothing on the build plate I didn't have time to investigate so that's for today, but still no new resin and we are in Northumberland all next week so this build is going to get parked till I get back.

    Mossy
     
  7. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

    Messages:
    3,882
    Likes Received:
    4,192
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2017
    Ouch,
    It's not just me then, Sods law dictates that it always comes to light just after glue sets.....:headbanger:
     
  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    9,848
    Likes Received:
    5,902
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    Murphy knows the exact right time to strike - I think he has me on speed dial.

    I have two printers on test prints for issues of sticking to the build plate. As the ambient temp has also dropped, we may all be suffering from this. The resin thickens as the temp drops.
    Just testing the number plates on the Photon - printing at 0.02 layer height (as per the failed print), same print file but this time using the Anycubic Green resin. I'm hearing the nice thunk as the printer print the base layers, but has gone quiet since the other layers have started - looks like another fail on the way, but will see if the base layers at least will have stuck to the plate - they hadn't with the Craftsman Grey resin.

    I'm going down your route of trying to get all the bits ready, I'd left the number plates too long before removing the supports, and now they're breaking apart when I try and remove them. So decided to take the oppotunity to try and print them at 0.02mm layer height rather than 0.05mm, and as mentioned above so far nothing to show for it.

    I'm going away for a few days next week, so would have liked to have some wagons to assemble in the evening after SWMBO goes to bed.

    Such is life - fingers crossed we beat Murphy - hopefully he can't be in two places at once :avatar:


    Paul
     
    Andy_Sollis likes this.
  9. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

    Messages:
    1,540
    Likes Received:
    2,320
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2020
    Hi Paul,

    Am I right, somewhere I read 9 degrees C is the critical temperature for resin.
    Living in Scotland I would have thought that's not an uncommon temperature.

    My printer and gear is in an un-insulted attic so as to keep all the chemicals out of reaching of a very inquisitive 2 1/2 year old grand-daughter.
    I bought a thermometer so I can check the ambient temperatures up there before starting any printing.

    Oh and finally 2.5 litres of resin arrived 1/2 hour ago far to late to get anything worthwhile done before we go away so I have just had a big clean up of all the gear before our trip away.

    Mossy
     
    Andy_Sollis likes this.
  10. Mark4mm

    Mark4mm Guest

    My :tophat:goes off to you guys and girls who have and use 3D printers, so handy to have when modelling small components.
     
  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    9,848
    Likes Received:
    5,902
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    Hi Mossy

    Concensus for northern europe appears to be 21C as the optimal temp, 25C-30C for those countries that don't need central heating on in the summer.

    The photon has been printing for approx an hour and the resin temp is 20.6C the outer case measures 19.6. The Mono X case temp is 20.3, room heating being provided by a power hungry PC, and the sun shinning on the windows.

    Printing in the attic you may well be suffering from temp issues, maybe need to create a box from 50mm foam insulation (the cellotex type as the chemicals may effect the expanded foam type) and have a small electric oil filled radiator to provide the heat - this is the method I intend to use when the Printers are moved outside.

    Paul
     
    Andy_Sollis and Rob Pulham like this.
  12. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

    Messages:
    1,540
    Likes Received:
    2,320
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2020
    Paul,

    How did you get those temperature readings?

    Mossy
     
    Andy_Sollis likes this.
  13. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

    Messages:
    1,540
    Likes Received:
    2,320
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2020
    Ding Ding - Round 2

    As mentioned in another thread, my reprint of the brake body yesterday failed, but the floor which is part of the same build plate was entirely useable. I had a spare body, it's a cosmetic failure (see if you can spot it in the attached photo) but it is perfectly useable for a test build.

    This morning having check I still had all the required components (yep a couple I had mislaid so they are reprinting) I set to and fitted the W Irons and brake V's.
    Everything fitted together nicely and I now have a nice free running non-compensated body:

    IMG_1033.jpg

    I ust have to wait for the missing part before starting the brake build. The print is due to finish in the next 30 mins, so brake work will start this afternoon.

    Mossy
     
    Andy_Sollis and Rob Pulham like this.
  14. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    3,896
    Likes Received:
    3,622
    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2018
    Well, I’m either thinking the chassis is it indented in the sideways U shape, or it’s to do with the extreeeemly long supports on the end of the van?
     
  15. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

    Messages:
    1,540
    Likes Received:
    2,320
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2020
    Andy,

    It was an unfair question as you only see the problem obliquely. BTW the "long legs" are extended end supports to allow dumb buffered wagons to be coupled up - quite a common feature of NER wagons. Theres also a long beam with runs from a supporton one end al the way across to the corresponding support on the other end. Typical Victorian massive engineering).

    The attached photo (its a V1/1 brake) shows it better.
    The vertical post on the sole bar is the mounting plate for the footboard support, its curved even though on the sketch and the .stl file its dead straight.
    It happened a few times (on the V1/1, the V1/2 and the V1/2 alternate body) on all 4 corner plates but not the 4 either side of the door. The first time I put it down to support problems so I smothered the area with support and did a reprint, exactly the same. Just for the shear hell of it I then modified the sketch, the support originally ran to the bottom of the sole bar so I cut off .25mm from the bottom and printed again using the original supports - cured!

    But why? Part of life's rich tapestry I guess.

    Mossy

    IMG_1034.jpg
     
    Andy_Sollis and Rob Pulham like this.

Share This Page