O gauge Track

Discussion in 'Hand built track' started by paul_l, Jan 1, 2018.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I decided to have a go at building a small layout based on the Gauge O Guild Welcome to O gauge booklet (part of the joining kit) £100 layout.

    Now the layout uses a single 6ft x 2ft piece of ply, cut to give 2 of 5ft x 1ft (Baseboard and Backscene) and 2 of 1ft x 1ft Backscene for the two ends. I uses a single point and a sector plate.
    Simples and very effective.

    However as I have a traverser (well when I can borrow it from Toto), I dont need the sector plate, and I wish to try using 50mm insulation foam as a base board, and also have a go at building my own track.

    I have owned Templot for several years - and should have spent more time learning to use this excellant piece of software. It is now available as a free download Templot

    I have placed on order some C&L chairs (not arrived yet) but decided to make my own sleepers from coffee stirrers - 1000 arrived two days after ordering and cost £5.

    I had previously made a jig out of grey board to cut PCB sleeper strip to the correct size, and used this again for this.

    [​IMG]
    The coffee stirrer is inserted and trimmed off square.

    Then inserted the other way round and trimmed to length, same again for a second sleeper.

    Out of one stirrer I can get either 2 standard sleepers or 1 sleeper and a point timber.

    Below shows 2 std sleepers plus the off cuts. An hour or so later I have approx 100 sleepers and enough point timbers for 1 point.

    [​IMG]

    Next up staining

    I'm using Colron Burmese Teak

    [​IMG]

    The timbers are placed in a jar, and a slug of wood dye added - not too much a capfull is a good start.

    Close the jar and rotate / tumble just work the timbers .

    [​IMG]

    It produces a nice variation in tones, which can be darkened by adding a little more dye.

    For a really dark look try Dark Oak, or a more faded worn look try Country Pine.

    These need to be left for a few days to even out, and absorb.

    Back to Templot 101

    Paul
     
  2. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I use the colron ( oil based version ) for the Townstreet casts. most of their stuff now comes water based . Boooooooo
    Looking forward to seeing the sleepers Paul ...... and the point .... that should offer up a challenge.
    toto
     
  3. SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    It's all go at Platform1 with new small layout builds
    I'll have to dig out the Guild book to refresh the memory on the design.
    I can see a new traverser build on the way soon :thumbs:
     
  4. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    following this Paul ... er what flavour were the lollies? .. honestly good luck with it mate.

    Ian vt
     
  5. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    I'm watching closely Paul..., don't ask why though.... ;)

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  6. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I too will be watching closely, I have all the ingredients but so far I have only managed to get around to making 3 lengths of straight track.
     
  7. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    What he doesn't tell you is that each length was 3 metres long with a diamond crossing and a double slip attached to each end. :avatar:
    You are too modest Rob.:avatar:
     
  8. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    A great start in O scale track building, I managed to pick up a used point from the Doncaster toy and train fair just before the new year, it needs a little tlc but for £15 I'm happy. But I need another 5 so I'm going to build them myself. I planned on using copperclad sleepers but after seeing your coffee stirrer sleepers, (I've got a bag full too!) I'm going to follow your build closely. I will buy the rail from Marcways in Sheffield, its close by and easy to park near, I've got some chairs from my last build, I will need loads more but its enough to get started.
    Right I'm ready to start building, so, lets go mate!!!!!!!
    Ready when you are :thumbs:.

    Cheer's, Pete.

    Ps, what turnout plan will you use, I've downloaded the free Peco L and R plans and will print them off as needed.
     
  9. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Toto wrote:
    Not even a scissors crossover in sight too ?:avatar:
     
  10. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Is Line Clear wrote:
    Ha Ha, I wish.

    Paul if you have a look on the Gazette Archive - Here there is an article by Bob Alderman on building a C&L point kit. If you look at the last page of the article there is a section on building the crossing V yourself. It will be my point (pardon the pun) of reference when I come to build some for myself.
     
  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Pete

    So far I have a plan for a B6 turnout in Templot, but need to add the rest of the trackplan.

    But kind of scuppered until the C&L chairs arrive, but looks like they are shut for the holidays.

    I have started to cut up more sleepers, these ones I will stain with the Antique Country Pine, to show the difference.

    Paul
     
  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Rob

    Thanks for the link - I will be making all the bits myself - if rivets had been cheaper I would be using them.

    I have a small stock of rail but will probably order more from Marcway, where I got the last lot from.

    One of the first machining projects for the cnc is a jig to hold the V

    Rough sketch

    [​IMG]
    Made from Alluminium, with 5 slots the width of the rail and slightly shallower than the rail height to allow a clamp to hold the rails in place.

    Placing one rail in the center slot the other in the angle required. The soldered joint is made outside the jig, and I intend to use plumbers solder (68% Lead 32% Tin) with a melting point of approx 250C.

    Looking forward to getting started.

    Paul
     
  13. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Paul,
    I took it as read that you were making everything yourself (except the chairs of course) - No point having all that machinery and buying in what you can make yourself:thumbs:
    The article is still worth a read because it shows you how to go about assembling the bit's once you have made them and of course how to make your own crossing V rather than using the C&L supplied example.
     
  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Cheers for the link - printed out and working my way through it.

    Paul
     
  15. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    [​IMG]
    Here is a B8 - B8 crossover turnout I made a couple of years ago using C&L components and scratching my own crossing Vee's, note that the wing rail is extended beyond the crossing nose on the turnout side to form a parallel wing rail, this is standard practice for any turnout on the big railway where points are inserted within a curve and in straight crossovers on passenger lines. Now a word of caution here as I fell into this nice little trap, if you build turnouts using C&L chairs then I recommend using the C&L rail which has a marginally thicker profile, I had a purchased a Marcway point kit from the dreaded ebay thinking this would be a good source of rail... how wrong I was as this rail is a thinner section which doesn't like seating properly in the C&L chairs. I have nothing against Marcway or Peco points but for me I'm looking for that little extra detail which a C&L track template will offer. cheers for now Paul

    Rob Pulham wrote:
     
  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Cheers Paul for the heads up.

    Paul
     
  17. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    paul_l wrote:
    You are very welcome Paul, if I can offer any advice here I will, building points in O Gauge is no different from building them on the big railway, something that I was involved with in my time in a former life on BR. I'll post you a couple pictures here to demonstrate how headaches can happen.
    [​IMG]
    Here is the siding end of the B8 crossover road I posted earlier, what we can see is tight gauge beyond the stretcher bars on the turnout side, tight gauge occurred by me inadvertently setting the thinner profile Peco and Marcway rail too tight in the gauging rollers... how did this happen? Well as you gauge up the rail by gluing the C&L chair onto the sleeper the thinner section rail tends to "roll" within the groove of the rollers and tilt inwards inside the C&L chairs, the result is tight gauge, with C&L rail the rail head is held firmly and in position within the rollers. I use 4 rollers spaced every third sleeper apart when setting the gauge, remember if tight gauge starts to occur unchecked the gauge will become incrementally narrower and bind the wheel sets of rolling stock passing over. When this happens the wheels will climb the rail and the flange will ride along the top of the rail... this happened to me just after the point blade openings. Everytime wagons passed through the turnout from the siding the third wagon would ride up over the points and derail on the first wheelset. If we count the sleepers from left to right in the points on my picture we can see the third timber in is the one on the point blade ends and is fitted with a soleplate, now two more timber past and we come to the first 9 foot timber, here we had the start of tight gauge and the cause of the derailments, the camera picks up the inward kink of the outside rail. Now count three more timbers in and we can see some of the P1 Block and S1 chairs have been removed, this is where the tight gauge had started to make the points useless. The timbers are ABS plastic and the solvent I use here is Carr's Butanone, the remedy was simple, free the old chairs off by sliding a scalpel blade underneath widen the gauge and reset using replacement chairs. this picture records what I was doing and now the problem is solved. The picture was taken before replacement new chairs had been fitted. I opted to fit new Pi chairs and their Blocks because the older ones became damaged on removal and meant reusing them would have impaired the free swinging of the switch blades. Cheers Paul
     
  18. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Now I'm not trying to bomb your thread Paul with my pictures but this general shot shows the geometric relationship of a crossover road inserted into the transition of a curve, just like on the big railway the same mathematical principles apply. Now we need to get hold of the PW gang and get them to clear away all those half chaired sleepers that have been dumped up the batter edge. I think they could be in that little cabin on the right playing cards :avatar:[​IMG]
     
  19. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    So how many chairs do you think you can print out on the 3D printer Paul ??

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  20. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Don't even go there ....... :scratchchin: :facepalm:

    :avatar:
     

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