River Dee Meats ... My first foray into O Gauge

Discussion in 'Planks, Switching and Shelf Layouts' started by Gary, Jun 19, 2018.

  1. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Kevin. :tophat:

    I will say that this is my first O gauge layout too. I would normally be modelling OO and HO, British, Australian & North American ! I want to see how much detail I can get into this layout over the next 6 months as it has to be finished for an exhibition in June...

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  2. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Its coming along a treat Gary. If you wrap the bottom of the building in cling film (Saranwrap etc) before ballasting you will be able to lift it off for transport and the ballast will come to the bottom edge of the building without leaving a gap.

    Pete.
     
  3. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Another thing I had done was not carry the platform brick work all the way to the ground. The foam core behind it does though. This will allow the ballast to sit firm against it and yes, I'll use the cling film method (pete alluded to) so that the building can be removable.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  4. mydadstoys

    mydadstoys Full Member

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    Hi Gary can I ask what you mean by the cling film method.:)
     
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  5. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    Fingers on the buttons Mods .. this could be a dodgy answer.

    Ian vt :scratchchin:
     
  6. Timbersurf

    Timbersurf

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    In case of language barrier issues (having fallen foul of it with Wagon Loads), I'll convert the term for our Southern brethren:-

    Cling Film = GladWrap :giggle:

    as not mentioned on the net as one of the alternatives
     
  7. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Kevin. The cling film "method" I spoke of is to wrap the bottom part of the building before putting it in place on the layout, then ballasting or whatever ground cover you intend to go round the building then glue the lot in place. The cling film stops any glue/PVA sticking to the building and fixing it in place. The building can then be removed for (as in Garys case) moving the layout for exhibition's etc. Once the glue's have set, the cling film can be removed and the building will sit easily on its spot and the groundworks will come right up to the edge without any gaps.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
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  8. mydadstoys

    mydadstoys Full Member

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    Pete thanks for explaining this to me as this is something I could use on my 0 gauge micro build.:thumbup:
     
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  9. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks for the explanation Pete. I was snoozing my head off when Kevin asked

    Funnily enough, we also have 'Glad Wrap' down under, but I thought I'd just use the generic name 'cling film' ! ;)

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  10. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Whilst building both rolling stock and scratch building my abattoir, I had been thinking about what coupling method to use on my wagons. Speaking with SMR Chris, he had mentioned a thread on RMweb, which I looked at and thought, that this is a brilliant and cheap alternative to a lot of the other couplers available. The use of OO scale Bachmann small loop screw on long couplings could be the answer ! Now I would keep the kooks on the wagons and have the three link only on the locomotives, unless I can work these on to the locos...

    See here : http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120116-boxer-bay-railway/?p=2652680

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  11. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Completed a little more on the abattoir today...

    Painted in the bricks. Not as good a Steve Fay's work, but it still looks ok...


    White wash of mortar as the grey base coat didn't fair too well... :whatever:


    After the white wash, this is the end result. It could be better. Might try some grey panel line from Tamiya ?? :scratchchin:


    Windows and lintels were painted and weathered, as well as the stairs (not pictured) and the valance on the canopy roof (not fixed yet).


    A little weathering of the brick work was also applied.


    More tomorrow...

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  12. mydadstoys

    mydadstoys Full Member

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    :hismiley:Gary really nice work. I think it looks fine mate but you know the look your looking for. Thanks for sharing I’m looking forward to your next instalment.
     
  13. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Some more work on the abattoir today. Doesn't seem like a lot has been done, but there was a lot of measuring twice and cutting once !

    The doors were added, but I took a slightly different approach to what I could see on the L-Cut web page. The roof former was cut to shape and secured in place and the small extension roof was also done. Guttering and down pipes were knocked up, painted and positioned. The roof has also been given its first coverage of paint. Unfortunately I ran out of corrugated card to complete the canopy roof. I can pick some up tomorrow after work. An option I had thought of was a tart roof for this section...

    Ok, some pics...

    The roof covered in corrugated card...


    The doors, weathered and positioned...


    The guttering. Formed from 4mm C channel section, I extended the front side and glued in small pieces of C section to form the brackets...


    Down pipes made from some 3.2mm diameter sprue was drilled at the base, bent slightly outwards and brackets glued to them...


    The fitting of the down pipes to the guttering via some angular funnel sections. The whole lot was painted green before fixing to the building...


    How it all looks tonight...




    That's it for now, it's getting late and work awaits me in the morning... :(

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  14. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    That looks great Gary I'm wondering if I should do a bespoke design for my factory backdrop on the Elton Crossing layout... what are your overall opinion of the L Cut system? I'd be interested to know.
     
  15. mydadstoys

    mydadstoys Full Member

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    Excellent modelling Gary. I really like the smaller details such as the guttering and drain pipes. Brilliant.:thumbup:
     
  16. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Paul,

    I like the L-Cut system as it goes together quite easily. A little application of PVA and your away. I will add that I arranged the pieces I purchased then glued them to 3mm foam core for added strength as this building is reasonably long, around 960mm. Timbersurf asked how I was to hide the finger joins and I think it would benefit from being rolled over with a small roller once the panels are connected. I did have a few bricks lift on some of the edges, but they were on the pieces I cut.

    Overall, I would give it a 9/10. Nothing is perfect in this world ! ;);)

    There is loads of different panels that come in a range of sizes as well as door and window apertures. Roof tiles and more are also available.

    Home : http://www.lcut.co.uk/index.php?page=pages/main&title=Home 7mm : http://www.lcut.co.uk/index.php?page=pages/productsOg&title=7mm

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  17. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Kevin. :thumbs:

    I wrote above how I was short on one sheet of corrugated card. When packing up last night, guess what I found... :whatever:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  18. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Gary, your build thread with L Cut prompted me to investigate a low relief factory for my layout which is a single story long vaulted roof affair built in the late Victorian period. L Cut have a good range of bits... I just need to work out what I want and similarly this will be about the same length. The windows I need are from these people;

    https://www.yorkmodelrail.com/0-scale/windows-templates-and-headers/0-scale-window-109

    I've seen their products and they are very crisp abate a tad expensive tho.
     
  19. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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  20. Timbersurf

    Timbersurf

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    I am still not convinced! I have spent numerous hours filling and scratching out mortar lines on joins between Linka tiles, with guidance from an expert in Aus on another forum, I think I have finally cracked a simple/easy method, but it is still time consuming Using, as you have done on most, a buttress over the join works well, but corners still seem obvious to me. On the LCut site, even their sample gallery does not hide the corner well (too many half bricks) although colouring the corner bricks as is prototypical seems to help. I guess I will just have to buy some myself and have a go! Although I may go back to creating my own Linka like moulds as used on my bridge piers and station embankment and have a go at making generic tiles to construct a half relief factory.
     

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