Paul_L's Connoisseur 4F build

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, May 27, 2020.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Looks like a little bit more black paint needed on the axle boxes :facepalm:, just to be covered in grime :whatever:

    Paul
     
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  2. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Only a wee bit of progress today

    Touched up the grey spots on the tender.

    Then started on the plunger pickups

    As per Jim's suggestions, the base hole was opened up with a 1.4mm drill, and ran a 2.4mm drill in the main body.


    Six lengths of 24AWG silicone multistrand wires were cut just oversize (distance from pickup hole to 25mm beyond the rear of the chassis). Ends trimmed and tinned ready for soldering to the etched tags.


    Then assembled


    One down five more to go.

    Paul
     
  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Slight deviation in the plan

    All the plunger pickups have been assembled, but rather than fitting, I decided to start and weather the chassis and wheels first.

    Railmatch frame dirt (diluted 50:50 paint and Railmatch thinner) was sprayed onto the dissassembled chassis and wheels.




    Boy those pics look light, I can assure you they are a lot darker.

    Cleaned the paint off the wheel rims with IPA on a cotton bud.

    Time to re-assemble the both chassis - as Arnie would say "I'll be back"

    Paul
     
  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Said I'd be back

    Just given a quick spray of Humbrol Sand Wash with the airbrush. I will apply some dust wash then powders later to give further definition .......

    Without camera flash


    and with camera flash


    And with the tender body dropped on


    Transfers arrived from HMRS, so need to apply gloss varnish to the tender side.

    Paul
     
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  5. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Ok time to fit the plunger pickups

    The easy ones first


    Then the rest and the wheels axles and motor


    Time to thread the wires through the etched holes in the chassis - the 24AWG silicon wire just fits through - phew


    Now to touch up the wheel centres


    and paint the coupling rods - again Railmatch Frame dirt


    Need to let these harden, then spray with matt varnish.

    Paul
     
  6. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Looking good Paul, I take years finishing off a 4mm scale wagon, a 7mm loco would take ...... :faint:
    Don't think I'll start one now, it's good to see some examples of paint application, an ultrasonic cleaner never even occurred to me :facepalm:

    Jim
     
  7. Torry

    Torry Full Member

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    Very nice Paul. Coming on well. :thumbup:
     
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  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks guy's, comparing the colours above and the photo on page 1 I think I have to add more black to the dirt layer, but I reckon that will happen when the whole model is ready for weathering, and I can blend in the overall look (or at least try to).

    Paul
     
  9. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Good work Sir. Really looking the part.
     
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  10. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    Superb Paul :tophat::tophat::tophat: way beyond my skill set

    Ian vt
     
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  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Morning chores completed (well the ones the boss remembered at least).

    Wired up the chassis


    Two pieces of OO gauge copper clad sleeper were cut tinned and super glued one per side of the motor.
    The positive motor terminal was connected to the right hand side strip, the negative to the left hand strip. The pickup wires were trimmed and connected to the strips. The strips are big enough to allow a connection to the tender if required.



    My intention is to 3D print a decoder mount that will be attached to the front side of the motor as there is enough room in the firebox to accomodate it.

    Once the wiring is complete and working correctly, I will paint over the copper clad with nail varnish to act as an insulator.

    Time to cook lunch .....

    Paul
     
  12. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    A good idea to use the sleeper strip as a wiring junction, makes the wiring a lot neater and easy to manage for maintenance and modifications, the extra space within a 7mm model certainly makes life easier than with 4mm scale.

    I'm very glad I did not go for N even though I could have run 12 coach trains but the thought of using a microscope to work on them would have been a nightmare. :facepalm:
     
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  13. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Nice idea, one that I will store away for future use.
     
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  14. Torry

    Torry Full Member

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    Simple but a clever idea. :tophat:
     
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  15. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    :facepalm: slight issue, I will need to file a bit off the footplate (will not be seen) as the copper clad is catching.

    Running the chassis, I will be fitting additional pickup in the tender, probably a weight issue (or unlike me a lack of weight issue) which will improve once the body is in place.

    Paul
     
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  16. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    You will need to watch the insulation between the soldered wires and the footplate then, may be useful to glue some thin plastic to the inside of the body shell to be sure. :scratchchin:
     
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  17. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    Nice idea with the copper clad Paul.....very neat.....:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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  18. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Jim

    Once the footplate and fire box are fully secured I should be able to cut out a section of footplate - I will post pics up showing what I mean later. But will put some insulation on both the copper clad (nail varnish) and the foot plate edge, probably black insulation tape.

    Paul
     
  19. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I suppose this is slightly less embarassing, as it's only 10 months since the last bitof work.

    The pressure is on, the MOK 8F build is nearing so I must make some progress on the 4F.

    A look at the instructions to try and work out where I was up to :facepalm:

    And the bits I'd missed out :facepalm::facepalm:

    Front splashers - a wee bit of a nightmare, compounded by the fact I'd fitted the beading to the footplate before fitting the splashers - don't ask why as I've been calling myself all sort of un-printable names since finding out this mistake. :hammer: :headbanger:

    Now all the splashers are fitted I could fit the firebox / splasher trims


    Lubricator supports and reversing crank - oops this should have been fitted after the boiler and smokebox were fitted.



    which leads up to the one of the most stress full parts that went real easy - time will tell on that level of enthusiam.


    Note to self - Need to tidy the work bench especially before taking photo's

    Decided to put it through the ultrasonic bath for a good clean before fitting the next parts.

    Back soon I hope

    Paul
     
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  20. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Followed by a clean with Jif - sorry CIF cleaner hot water and a tooth brush, other brands of cleaner are available but SWMBO had bought this one.

    No parts fell off - phew

    It seems to sit on the chassis nicely - but the proof will be when its screwed down.





    Next up is the valve chest cover and assemblies, reversing lever and a few other bits then :drums: :drums: :drums: the chassis ..... Ah I've already done that bit :facepalm: nuts oh well.

    Paul
     

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