Paul_L's Connoisseur 4F build

Progress has been slow this week - mind you it is only Tuesday

First up coal rear bulk head

Then the detailing bits, on the outer sides rivet strips are added, in the center the bracing brackets are added, then a decrative rivet strip

Now the beading strips, slight variation for me is the beading stops at the front coal bulkhead to allow the tender cab to be installed.

There is a half etch line where the curves start, this works really easily

Then the second side hear is where I trimmed the beading

Both sides formed

The beading between the two sides is now added

First the rear beading - trimmed to length

Once happy the sides are trimmed to length

Now the beading for the rear coal bulkhead

Fireiron support bracket, to etches laminated together

and fitted

Lamp irons

Time for a coffee and to put the model into the ultrasonic cleaner

Paul

 

Yup, those clamping tweezers made the job real easy, Nellie will be getting nervous

Had a little time available at lunch time - who needs food anyway

I decided to put the white metal parts on later, so on with the outer frames

First up emboss the rivets

The time to be brave I tacked the drawbeam in place then one side, using the square to check all is ok

and run the fillets

and then the second side frame

Starting to like a tender now.

Next up will be the mods to both the buffer beams to accommodate the sprung buffers as per Yorkies build thread Post #44 onwards

But that'll be after work

Paul

 

and the buffer beam begins

First had to ream out the holes for the Markits buffers, I stripped one buffer down to use as a master, and used the broach to ream the holes. All markits buffer shanks are not quite equal, luckily the one I picked was a smaller diameter - now we are talking a knats ba hair here, but these are now a v close fit.
On with the soldering iron

Next drill out all 8 holes, and fit the wires

Now the excitement got the better of me, and I thought I'd taken pictures of the buffer assembly

Chassis outer frames marked up and cut out for the sprung buffer motion, buffer assembly tested amd time to solder up

Now I remembered to take photo's - actually Toto reminded me.

That's it for tonight, steps tomorrow.

Paul

 

Hi Kim

Really well

I use it in two ways - a quick 5 min wash gets rid all debry from cleaning with a wipe down with tissue at the end and the full wash where I clean the model first with cream cleaner (Jif or Tesco's own) and a tooth brush, rinsed off with water, then a 10 min wash in the ultrasonic cleaner - I use a bath of concentrated All purpose cleaner - the yellow / green stuff normall 3 parts cleaner to 1 part water. Finaly a good rinse with warm / hot water. I have this cleaner for cleaning 3D prints and can take 4 to 5 litres of fluid.
I will take before and after pics next time.

Paul

 

Wow - just checked my back orders with Amazon High Frequency Cleaner 3l
I paid £99, its now listed as £230



I picked this one due to the drainage cock at the side.

The cleaning fluid I use is Tesco All Purpose Cleaner currently £1 per litre



Remember my primary use for this cleaner was for 3D prints so I mix 3 x Cleaner to 1 x Water, for cleaning kits I may try 1:1 and see how that goes.

Looking on Ebay a 30 litre may suit a 9F




However at nearly £500 maybe just stick half the loco in at a time

This may be more appropriate



From Amazon Digital Ultrasonic Cleaner - DK SONIC 3L 120W Currently £136 smaller than mine and only half the power - just clean for longer.

A 22L version of mine is available for £289 and has a capacity of 525X340X330mm, but that is a hell of a lot of fluid to mix up and drain out

Paul

 

I think it's because people are willing to pay it, or as Kimbo has found most sizes are out of stock, maybe the factory in China hasn't reopened.

Paul

 

Believe it or not but progress has been made, I just haven't had time to post it up

The previous posts didn't really show the slot for the sprung buffers

Luckily the step will hide this.

The front and rear steps are different sizes, the rear being slightly narrower. Jim has etched front and rear on each set of etches - see he thought of me years ahead of me buying it

The parts for the rear steps

All folds were made on the steps and treads

I then decided for the rear steps to reinforce the step with 0.9mm wire - I used 60/40 mulicored electrical solder for this - approx 188C melting point

Then the treads were then added using 145C solder

Slight bends were added to the treads

And then fitted

Same process repeated for the front steps - this time without reinforcement

Now the worrying bit - white metal

I dropped the Soldering Iron temp down to 160C, and used 100C solder.

All holes on the rear shelf needed opening out to fit the castings

And soldered up initially from the underside, then finished of with a little from above to give the fillet.

Axle boxes - the axle box rears were first tinned, then inserted and soldered from the rear

Finally the brake levers in the cab end - I left these until last as Toto had found they are easily damaged.

Time for a good clean up then a wash - not sure if that's me or the tender.

Paul